Getting there & away
Land
Bus
Long-distance buses leave from the relevant company offices found along Shari’ati St. Most have morning and evening services to Esfahan (IR40, 000, eight hours) and Tehran (IR45, 500, eight hours via Qom). Taavoni 15 has services to Orumiyeh (normal/Volvo IR52, 000/90, 000, 17 hours) at 3.30pm and to Sanandaj (IR25, 000) at 1.30pm.
Taavoni 1, 7 and 15 have night buses to Ahvaz (IR40, 000, six hours) via Andimeshk. However, to see the beautiful canyon-lands south of Pol-e Dokhtar you’d be better off travelling by day to Andimeshk by minibus (IR12, 000, 4½ hours) or savari (IR35, 000, 3¾ hours) from the small Andimeshk terminal (Baharestan Blvd), 800m south of Imam Hossein (Shaqayeq) Sq.
For Kermanshah, Taavoni 17 (Pekesaba) has a direct bus at 2pm (IR25, 000, 3½ hours), but if the timing is inconvenient it’s easy enough and often faster to do the trips in hops via Nurabad and Harsin. Savaris to Nurabad (IR12, 000, 85km) and Alashtar (IR8000) leave from Kyo Sq, minibuses starting from 200m further up a feeder road.
Incoming minibuses from Borujerd (IR6000, two hours) and Dorud (IR5000, 1¾ hours) might drop you at Basij Sq, but departing they use a terminal 1.5km further northeast up Shimsherabad (Daneshju) St. Scarily fast savaris take barely half the time.
Air
Taban Air tickets to Tehran (IR250, 000, daily) are sold by helpful Soleyman Travel (220 0600; Muhajadine-e Islam St; 8am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat-Thu). The airport is 5km south of Imam Hossein Sq.
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