Things to do in Kermanshah
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Takieh Mo’aven ol-Molk
Distinctively Shiite, Hosseiniehs are shrines where plays are acted out during the Islamic month of Moharram, commemorating the martyrdom of Imam Hossein at Karbala (AD 680). The finest in Kermanshah is the 1913 Takieh Mo’aven ol-Molk. Enter down stairs, through a courtyard and domed central chamber decorated with grizzly scenes from the great Karbala battle. The shrine remains very much active, pilgrims kissing the doors and looking genuinely moved by the ‘footprint of Ali’ on the wall of the second courtyard. This is set amid tiles depicting a wacky gamut of images from Quranic scenes, to pre-Islamic gods including Shahnameh kings, European villages and local notables…
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Chelokababi Tavakol
This would be the backpacker meeting place, if there were any backpackers. Excellent value Iranian food is served in an atmospheric once-grand old bathhouse that’s slightly gone-to-seed. Charming owner Ali Rahban looks somewhat like Dudley Moore, speaks good English and can rustle up eggplant delights for vegetarians. Head downstairs through white-framed doors with coloured glass panels.
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Homa
Combining the atmosphere of a teahouse with the calm elegance of an upmarket restaurant, Homa has embroidered tablecloths and blue-brick dining niches ranged around a gently trickling fountain. Though not a patch on homemade equivalents, the semi-sweet fesenjun (IR30,000) is ideally complemented by their acidic dugh (churned sour milk or yogurt mixed with water).
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Jamshid Restaurant
Surveyed by a gigantic bronze eagle and huge samovar, this unusual dining room is cut in two by an artificial ‘stream’. Try the local speciality khoresht khalol (lamb stewed with almonds) rather than the three-skewer dandeh kabab (IR65,000), which is famous more for its excessive size than for its flavour.
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Covered Bazaar
The extensive, much restored covered bazaar slopes up from Modarres St. It's well worth exploring with a couple of dilapidated old caravanserai courtyards at the western end. Within the bazaar, Ehmad Dohla Mosque (Jewellery Bazaar), entered through an attractive tiled portal, has a Qajar-era clock tower.
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Ehmad Dohla Mosque
The extensive, much restored covered bazaar slopes up from Modarres St. It's well worth exploring with a couple of dilapidated old caravanserai courtyards at the western end. Within the bazaar, Ehmad Dohla Mosque, entered through an attractive tiled portal, has a Qajar-era clock tower.
reviewed
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Taq-e Bostan
- Kermanshah, Iran
- Sights › Hill
Kermanshah’s star attraction is Taq-e Bostan, a towering cliff inscribed with some extraordinary Sassanian bas-reliefs. They are set in and around a pair of carved alcoves.
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Ashikhade Mosque
The once interesting area of older houses around the blue-domed, 20th-century Ashikhade Mosque has now been largely bulldozed, but some curiosities remain if you poke about in the back alleys.
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Snack Stalls, Motahhari Blvd
Near Ojak Crossing; snack stalls and confectioners selling Kermanshah's archetypal Nan Berenji cookies (literally 'bread-rice'; a round semi-sweet confection that's usually yellow and flavoured with safron).
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Eram Restaurant
Eram’s staff are as eccentric as its wavy brickwork interior, which culminates in green-bronze framed copies of the Bisotun reliefs. It serves mainly kababs, but does fesenjun at lunchtime.
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Snack stalls, Azadi Sq
Snacks, and confectioners selling Kermanshah's archetypal Nan Berenji cookies (literally 'bread-rice'; a round semi-sweet confection that's usually yellow and flavoured with safron).
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Takieh Biglar Begi
The lesser known Takieh Biglar Begi now houses a fairly cursory calligraphy museum, but is worth visiting for its dazzling mirror-tiled central dome-room.
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Borj Pizza
Its unusually good Borj Special Pizza (IR26,000) has enough flavour that you don’t need to reach immediately for the ketchup. Rare indeed in Iran.
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Jameh Mosque
The Jameh Mosque, which has a beautiful Yazd-styled twin minaret.
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Tasviran Photo Shop
Develops film and prints digital pictures. English spoken, no slides.
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