Hamadan Restaurants

  1. Chaykhuneh Baharestan

    This atmospheric, if decidedly down-market 100% male teahouse is charmingly adorned with metalwork, sepia photos and Quranic murals. It's ideal for a greasy fried egg breakfast, cheap abgusht lunch or a puff on the qalyan, and is populated by photogenically haggard old white-beards. To find it, head upstairs through a partly illustrated doorway opposite a small branch of Bank Maskan.

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  2. Delta Sofrakhane Sonati

    This delightful neo-traditional retreat lies beneath the unremarkable Delta restaurant using separate stairs from outside. Tea comes in ceramic Lalejin pots, women can smoke qalyan on carpeted bed-seats without undue attention and the chicken 'biriyani' comes on a flaming plate. Don't miss the scrumptious kashka bademjan , eggplant paste with yoghurt, mint and roasted red peppers.

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  3. Hezaroyek Shab

    This cosy if slightly garish restaurant is quite a trek from the centre (around 5000 dar baste taxi) but there's a wide Irano-European menu and owner Pari Bakhtiyari speaks fluent English. Call ahead.

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  4. Kaghazi Pizza-Coffee

    Pine furniture and a few African masks bring some character to this gently stylish two-room café whose pizzas are refreshingly crispy and thin-crusted.

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  5. Kaktus

    Down easy-to-miss stairs, Kaktus remains one of Hamadan's most popular middle-class kabab restaurants. It's tastefully lit if not imaginatively decorated.

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