Golestan Palace Complex

Lonely Planet review

In what was once the heart of Tehran is this monument to the glories and excesses of the Qajar rulers. A short walk south from Imam Khomeini Sq, the is made up of several grand buildings set around a carefully manicured garden. Admission isn't expensive but, annoyingly, you must buy a separate ticket for each building, and all at the front gate. If you ask, they might also give you an informative printed guide.

Although there was a Safavid-era citadel on this site, it was the Qajar ruler Nasser al-Din Shah (r 1848-96), impressed by what he'd seen of European palaces, who built it into the fine complex you see today. Originally it would have been much bigger, with inner and outer sections to encompass offices, ministries and private living quarters, but several surrounding buildings were pulled down under the Pahlavis.

The following tour assumes you start your visit at the Ivan-e Takht-e Marmar, then continue clockwise around the courtyard. Walk straight ahead from the entrance to the Ivan-e Takht-e Marmar, a mirrored, open-fronted audience hall. After here turn left and you'll come to the Negar Khane, which displays a fine collection of Qajar-era art. Continue clockwise and you'll come to the Howze Khaneh , named for the small pool and fountain in the room. At the end of the garden is the imposing Shams-Al Emarat , the tallest palace of its day. Next door you'll find the recently restored Emarat-e Badgir, first erected in the reign of Fath Ali Shah. Next up is the tiny Talar-e Almas which displays a range of decorative arts. Finally, after wandering back through the gardens, you'll come to the Ethnographical Museum, back near the main entrance.