Tehran Restaurants

  1. Ananda Vegetarian Restaurant & Coffee Shop

    Way up in north Tehran the Ananda is a gem if you're a vegetarian, and delightful even if you're not. Run in association with the Iranian Society of Vegetarians, there's no chance of finding rogue bits of meat here and the food is both delicious and cheap. We can recommend the Ananda lasagne and Ananda calzone, the freshly made salad (no plastic wrap!) and the service and setting. Come by taxi and ask for Pasdaran PTT - it's just next door.

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  2. Azari Traditional Teahouse

    About 250m north of Rah-Ahan Sq, this restored 'coffeehouse' in south Tehran is wonderfully atmospheric because it remains popular with locals, who use it as an unofficial community centre. The dizi and chicken kababsare rightly popular. A traditional band plays most evenings when the boisterous atmosphere is best enjoyed with a group, and bookings are recommended.

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  3. Coffee Shop & Vegie Restaurant of Iranian Artists' Forum

    This dedicated vegetarian restaurant is excellent value and a good place to meet young, educated and artistic Tehranis. It's in a brick building at the southern edge of Park-e Tehran, and has an informal, busy ambience with young people coming and going. Owner Aman promised there would be no mystery meat in the salads, sandwiches, pizzas or khoresht , among others.

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  4. Ferdosi Sonnati

    This popular place is especially busy at lunchtime, when its well-priced classic Persian dishes attract traffic from busy Imam Khomeini Sq.

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  5. Ghaem Teahouse

    Behind a curtain and up an unmarked stairwell on the southeastern corner of Tajrish Sq, this is an ideal if somewhat pricey place from which to watch the people and traffic carnage over tea, qalyan and dates. It also does the usual range of kababs.

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  6. Gilac

    The ambience, décor, music and food presentation at Gilac are more reminiscent of Europe than Iran. But the delicious food is wonderfully Caspian. It's a favourite of vegetarians, with the mirza ghasemi , borani bademjan and dokhtar-e luce ('spoilt girl') starters all delicious; in combination, they'd happily make a meal on their own. The fish and veal dishes are also excellent.

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  7. Iranian Traditional Restaurant

    This underground place is modern Iranian social interaction in microcosm, full of young Iranians flirting, smoking and eating (in that order) under attractive vaulted and tiled ceilings. The dizi and kababs are reliably good and well-priced for this location, though at busy times you won't be allowed to linger. It's tucked away down an ornately tiled staircase, just east of the Canon/Konica shop.

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  8. Istanbul-No Restaurant

    Tucked away 20m down a lane near the Hotel Naderi, this hole-in-the-wall serves a surprising range of lunchtime dishes, with the usual kababs sharing space with huge pots of khoresht (any kind of meaty stew), ghorme sabzi (stewed beans, greens and mince) and mirza ghasemi (mashed eggplant, squash, garlic, tomato and egg). Recommended particularly for budgeteers.

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  9. Khaneh Azarbaijan

    Khaneh Azarbaijan is one of four restuarants in Stone Park, but is the best value. Unfortunately, the other three seem to take pride in overcharging tourists. The park is worth a visit, but think about bringing a picnic lunch.

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  10. Khayyam Traditional Restaurant

    About 200m south of the Khayyam Metro station and opposite the Imamzadeh Seyyed Nasreddin Mosque (look for the dome), this beautifully decorated restaurant is an oasis amid the chaos of the bazaar area. Originally part of the mosque, the 300-year-old building was separated when Khayyam St intervened. It was restored in 2002.

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  12. Khosbin Restaurant

    If you can't face another kabab - or are looking for some vegetarian (not vegan) fare - the no-frills Khosbin serves a refreshing range of Gilani food. Vegetarians should ask for the delicious mirza ghasemi or baghli (a broad bean dish), or perhaps the zeytoun parvardeh (olives marinated in pomegranate juice with crushed walnuts). There's no English sign; look for the red writing on the front window.

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  13. Sofre Khane Sonnati Sangalag

    If you're visiting the museums or Golestan Palace, this is the place to stop for lunch (or tea). The green setting in Park-e Shahr, coupled with the relatively quiet space embellished with antique photographs, set the tone. Dizi and the bademjan (eggplant) dishes are recommended. Musicians sometimes play in the afternoon.

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  14. Sofre-Khaneh Sonatee Ali Ghapoo

    This big, noisy subterranean restaurant is where Iranians go for a boisterous group meal. Waiters in traditional dress set the tone and the atmosphere is as enjoyable as the Iranian food. The fun is expensive by Tehran standards and gets more so after the traditional band starts.

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  15. Sofreh Khane Ayyaran

    This subterranean chaykhaneh makes an attractive escape from the fumes of Ferdosi Sq, though prices are aimed at tour groups (ie, high). However, the large Iranian menu has some hard-to-find dishes and a couple that you might not expect in your standard Tehran basement, such as 'Submissive'. Apparently it's eggplant, master.

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  16. Sofrekhaneh Amol Mazandaran

    Under the mosaferkhaneh of the same name, this underground place is the classic south Tehran local, with men eating cheap dizi , drinking tea and smoking qalyan. A genuine working-class Tehran experience.

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  17. Tarighat Restaurant

    Handy to the budget accommodation, this lunchtime place serves reliably good interpretations of the standard kababs and zereshk polo ba morgh (roast chicken served with rice and barberry).

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