Zahedan Getting there & around

Getting there & away

Land

To/from pakistan

There are frequent buses (IR6000, 1½ hours) and minibuses (IR7500, 1½ to two hours) from Zahedan to Mirjaveh (96km). Most buses leave from the bus terminal. The easiest way, however, is to get a savari (IR20, 000, one hour) from Forudgah Sq in the far east of town. Drivers will ask for as much as US$20 for the trip, but bargain your hardest.

The Iran-Pakistan border is 15km east of Mirjaveh village, so clarify whether your vehicle is going to the village or border.

Car & motorcycle

Drivers travelling between Turkey and India often describe the trip between Zahedan and Quetta, across the vast Baluchestan desert, as the worst leg of their journey. The road from Quetta to the Iranian border is barren and lonely, with few facilities and a risk of bandits; consider driving in convoy once on the Pakistan side.

The clearly signposted road between Zahedan and Kerman is good, but short on facilities. Take plenty of water and make sure your vehicle is in good order or risk a potentially long and unpleasant wait for repairs. Petrol is available in Mirjaveh (20L maximum), Zahedan and Fahraj (between Zahedan and Bam).

Train

The new train line linking Bam and Zahedan should open by 2009. Check Raja Trains (www.rajatrains.com) for updates.

To/from pakistan

The long, remote, dusty, sometimes cold and often uncomfortable train trip between Zahedan and Quetta, in Pakistan, is guaranteed to be a story you’ll tell until you die. If you’re someone who enjoys meeting people, isn’t fussed by hardship (carriages are simple with wooden seats and no sleepers) and has plenty of time, you’ll probably enjoy it. If not, take the bus.

Iran and Pakistan have plans to increase cross-border trains between Zahedan and Quetta when the line to Bam is finished, until then the train is supposed to leave on the 3rd and 17th of every month by the Western calendar at 8.30am, insh’Allah (if God wills it). It usually does, but do call the not-exactly-overworked stationmaster in Zahedan’s attractive train station (322 4142) to double-check; mornings are best. The trip is scheduled to take 30 hours, but as reader Michael von Kuelmer reported, two days is more likely:

‘The speed is 20 to 30km/h, great for viewing and taking pictures. We needed c 47 hours for the whole trip, including about five hours at the border. You can use that time for shopping in Taftan (we bought blankets). Armed guards accompany you on the Pakistani side. The whole staff of the train (more staff than passengers) was very friendly, handshaking with the driver included! The train stops in villages on the way, which gives you the opportunity to meet unbelievably nice people there. It’s a ride you won’t forget but with warm clothes and enough food and drink it’s a pleasant journey as well! And don’t be put off if the train is leaving late; ours left with half-a-day delay. It’s holiday – you are not in a hurry!’

You pay in rial to Taftan (IR12, 000), and in rupees from Taftan to Quetta. Alternatively, you could get yourself across the border and get on the train in Taftan.

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Air

Given Zahedan’s isolation, flying makes a good alternative to long hours of overland travel. It’s also a good idea for northward journeys to Mashhad.

Iran Air (322 0813/4; Motahhari Blvd), near Azadi Sq, flies from Zahedan to Chabahar (IR284, 000, six times weekly), Esfahan (IR512, 000, Friday only), Kerman (IR258, 000, Friday only), Mashhad (IR436, 000, four times weekly) and Tehran (IR599, 000, once or twice daily).

Mahan Air flies regularly to Tehran, though you might need to board a Tupolev, which on Fridays goes to Dubai for Zahedan’s only international flight. Tickets are available from travel agencies.

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