Grand Bazaar

Stretching for 1200m from Tohid Sq northeast to Shohada Sq, Kerman's Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest trading centres in Iran. This main thoroughfare is made up of four smaller bazaars, and a further 20 or so branch off to the north and south. It is, however, easy enough to navigate and has a vivacity that should keep you interested, especially in the morning and late afternoon.

Starting at Tohid Sq, the first section is the Bazar-e Ganj Ali Khan, built in the 17th century for Ganj Ali Khan (the governor of Kerman), which soon opens onto the pretty Ganj Ali Khan Square. Built in the Safavid period, this courtyard is home to what was once Kerman's most important hammam, the Hamam-e Ganj Ali Khan, now restored and transformed into a museum. Wonderful frescoes adorn the walls and wax dummies illustrate the workings of a traditional bathhouse. The reception area, for example, was divided so men practising different trades could all disrobe together. Look for the 'time stones' at the east and west ends of the hammam; translucent, 10cm-thick alabaster doorways through which bathers could get a rough idea of the time according to how light it was outside.

On the north side of the courtyard is the photogenic Bazar-e Mesgari Shomali (Coppersmith's Bazaar), and at the square's northeastern end is Masjed-e Ganj Ali Khan, Ganj Ali Khan's lavishly decorated private mosque. A caravanserai next door was being restored when we passed.

From the northeastern corner of the square, the Gold Bazaar (Bazar-e Zargaran) leads to a small square with an attractive portal leading to an old (and now closed) madraseh. Follow the steps down into the Hamam-e Ebrahim Khan, one of Iran's few traditional bathhouses where men can still be rubbed, scrubbed and beaten. The welcoming manager might show women around if it's not busy.

The Bazar-e Ekhtiari leads east from the square and passes the Hamam-e Vakil Chaykhaneh before becoming the Bazar-e Vakil; both are about 150 years old. After about 600m the covered bazaar ends and the 700-year-old open-air Bazar-e Mosaffari begins, though there is little evidence of such antiquity. The Jameh Mosque can be entered from this bazaar, and you can then walk through to Shohada Sq.