Bath House sights in Iran
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Shotorgalu-ye Safavi
At the centre of Bagh-e Tarikhi-ye Fin (Fin Garden) is Shotorgalu-ye Safavi , a two-storey pavilion. At the rear is the Shotorgalu-ye Qajari, built by the Qajars, with ornately painted ceilings and walls. Nearby is a delightful teahouse, which sells cheap tea and kababs.
But it is the bathhouse that is most historically significant as the place where Iranian nationalist hero Amir Kabir was murdered. Mirza Taqi Khan, known as Amir Kabir, served as prime minister under Nasir od-Din Shah from 1848. He was a moderniser who instituted significant change, especially in the fields of education and administration. But his popularity proved unpopular in the royal court and the…
reviewed
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A
Hamam-e Ganj Ali Khan
Built in the Safavid period, this courtyard is home to what was once Kerman’s most important hammam, the Hamam-e Ganj Ali Khan, now restored and transformed into a museum. Wonderful frescoes adorn the walls and wax dummies illustrate the workings of a traditional bathhouse. The reception area, for example, was divided so men practising different trades could all disrobe together. Look for the ‘time stones’ at the east and west ends of the hammam; translucent, 10cm-thick alabaster doorways through which bathers could get a rough idea of the time according to how light it was outside.
reviewed
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B
Hammam-e Sultan Mir Ahmad
Hammam-e Sultan Mir Ahmad is a superb example of an Iranian bathhouse, built around 450 years ago. A recent restoration has stripped away 17 layers of plaster (look just inside the second room to see them) to reveal the original sarough, a type of plaster made of milk, egg white, soy flour and lime, which is said to be stronger than cement. There is usually an English-speaking guide at the door who can show you around.
reviewed
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C
Hammam-e Vakil
After years as one of the most popular traditional restaurants in Iran, the Hammam-e Vakil was closed because the kitchen was damaging this classic old building. Shame. In early 2008 it reopened as a modest carpet museum, but its future remained uncertain. If it is open in some form, it’s worth popping in for a look at the classic old bathhouse.
reviewed
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D
Hammam-e Ali Gholi Agha
In the historic district of Bid Abad, the recently restored Hammam-e Ali Gholi Agha is now a well-maintained (but poorly signed) museum to bathhouses. Fortunately there is information at the entrance, explaining the Qajar-era history and uses of the hammam. English-speaking guides are also available. It’s worth a look.
reviewed