Middle Eastern restaurants in Iran
-
Yord Cultural Complex
In an enormous colourful yord (tent) about 8km northwest of town, this complex not only offers the chance to enjoy some fine Iranian-nomad food, but also to experience the Qashqa’i culture. The warm atmosphere, colourful costumes, live music and delicious food afford a dreamy escape from modern life into a Qashqa’i tented embrace. Yord is almost impossible to reach by public transport, so ask your hotel to write the name in Farsi and get a taxi (about IR25,000); it is also worth paying the taxi to wait for you (about IR70,000 total) as taxis out here are rare indeed.
reviewed
-
Bastani Restaurant
In the shadow of the Imam Mosque, the Bastani is the best-located restaurant in Esfahan. That, however, is where the compliments end. In recent years the quality of the food has been less consistent. Which is a pity, as the menu is full of interesting-sounding dishes. If you do eat here, the billing can be confusing so check it carefully. It’s a pity, as the menu is full of interesting-sounding dishes and it used to be good. Hopefully it will pick up.
reviewed
-
A
Azari Traditional Teahouse
This restored ‘coffeehouse’ in south Tehran is wonderfully atmospheric because it remains popular with locals, who use it as an unofficial community centre. The dizi and chicken kababs are rightly popular. A traditional band plays most evenings when the boisterous atmosphere is best enjoyed with a group, and bookings are recommended.
reviewed
-
B
Iranian Traditional Restaurant
This underground place is modern Iranian social interaction in microcosm, and full of young Iranians flirting, smoking and eating (in that order) under attractive vaulted and tiled ceilings. The dizi (IR24,000) and kababs are reliably good and well-priced for this location, though at busy times you won’t be allowed to linger.
reviewed
-
Hammam-e Khan Restaurant
Deep in the heart of the old city, this restored underground hammam is one of the original historic restorations in Yazd and deserves its ongoing popularity. The interior is all tranquil pools, arched ceilings and fine tilework, and the food is delicious (as long as it’s not too busy).
reviewed
-
C
Khayyam Traditional Restaurant
Opposite the Imamzadeh Seyyed Nasreddin Mosque (look for the dome), this beautifully decorated restaurant is an oasis amid the chaos of the bazaar area. Originally part of the mosque, the 300-year-old building was separated when Khayyam St intervened. It was restored in 2002. The typically Iranian food (mainly kabab, chicken and fish) is well prepared and plentiful. But on this visit we felt service had dropped and the 15% service charge on top of all the extras you have to pay for is irritating. Still, for tea, qalyan and sweets (IR25,000) after an outing in the bazaar, it’s hard to beat.
reviewed
-
D
Khangostar Restaurant
Located in Julfa Hotel, Khangostar Restaurant offers probably the best food in Esfahan – locals, our own experience and overwhelmingly positive reader feedback can attest to this. Servings are enormous here, (even by Iranian standards!) and the menu large and varied, but mainly Iranian. It’s busy rather than romantic, and the salad and dessert bars might seem a bit Sizzler, but hey, you won’t complain when you get there.
reviewed
-
E
Sharzeh Traditional Restaurant
Talk about atmosphere! The night we ate at the Sharzeh it was going off like the proverbial frog in a sock, with diners singing and clapping along with musicians playing traditional music in the centre of the two-level space. Great fun! The Iranian food was well-prepared, tasty and plentiful. It’s diagonally opposite the entrance to the Vakil Bazaar. There’s no English sign; look for the man in costume outside an arcade.
reviewed
-
Chelokababi Tavakol
This would be the backpacker meeting place, if there were any backpackers. Excellent value Iranian food is served in an atmospheric once-grand old bathhouse that’s slightly gone-to-seed. Charming owner Ali Rahban looks somewhat like Dudley Moore, speaks good English and can rustle up eggplant delights for vegetarians. Head downstairs through white-framed doors with coloured glass panels.
reviewed
-
F
Kourosh
Kourosh wins no prizes for décor but offers numerous typical Gilani dishes including dill-rich bagilah qotoq, zeitun parvarden (olives in walnut paste) and garlic mast. On a good day the mirza ghasemi (mashed eggplant, squash, garlic, tomato and egg, served with bread or rice) can be superb but the fesenjun (chicken with walnuts) is rather tart.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
G
Sofreh Khane Ayyaran
This subterranean chaykhaneh makes an attractive escape from the fumes of Ferdosi Sq, though prices are aimed at tour groups (ie, high). However, the large Iranian menu has some hard-to-find dishes and a couple that you might not expect in your standard Tehran basement, such as ‘Submissive: IR25,000’. Apparently it’s eggplant, master.
reviewed
-
H
Shater Abbas Restaurant 1
The low light, open kitchen, bustling staff and modern design touches create an atmosphere that is hugely popular with middle-class Shirazis. The menu mixes the classic range of kababs with some less familiar dishes – turkey kabab and mushroom steak, for example. Prices seem to have climbed with demand, sharply. Look for the flame torches outside.
reviewed
-
I
Restaurant Shahrzad
The opulent Qajar-style wall-paintings, stained-glass windows and mirror work contribute to the Shahrzad’s reputation as the best restaurant in Esfahan. And on a good night, it’s excellent – strip lights notwithstanding. Too often, however, it’s packed with tour groups and the service (and food) feels factory produced.
reviewed
-
J
Sofre Khane Sonnati Sangalag
If you're visiting the museums or Golestan Palace, this is the place to stop for lunch (or tea). The green setting in Park-e Shahr, coupled with the relatively quiet space embellished with antique photographs, set the tone. Dizi and the bademjan (eggplant) dishes are recommended. Musicians sometimes play in the afternoon.
reviewed
-
K
Istanbul-No Restaurant
This hole-in-the-wall serves a surprising range of lunchtime dishes, with the usual kababs sharing space with huge pots of khoresht (any kind of meaty stew), ghorme sabzi (stewed beans, greens and mince) and mirza ghasemi (mashed eggplant, squash, garlic, tomato and egg). Recommended particularly for budgeteers.
reviewed
-
Jamshid Restaurant
Surveyed by a gigantic bronze eagle and huge samovar, this unusual dining room is cut in two by an artificial ‘stream’. Try the local speciality khoresht khalol (lamb stewed with almonds) rather than the three-skewer dandeh kabab (IR65,000), which is famous more for its excessive size than for its flavour.
reviewed
-
L
Sofreh Khaneh Sonnati
Just off Imam Sq, this restaurant uses stained glass, colourful tiles and takhts (day beds) to create a Qajar-era (if slightly touristy) ambience. The food makes it memorable, with Esfahani biryani and khoresht-e bademjan (aubergine or eggplant stew) some of the well-prepared and reasonably priced recommendations.
reviewed
-
M
Yavar Restaurant
For traditional Shirazi food, local prices and character, the Yavar is excellent. The eslamboli (rice and tomato) and khoresht bademjan (eggplant stew) make a refreshing alternative to kababs (which it also has). There’s no English sign; look for Hossein riding a white horse across the front wall.
reviewed
-
Delta Sofrakhane Sonati
Tea (IR5000) comes in ceramic Lalejin pots, women can smoke qalyan on carpeted bed-seats without undue attention and the chicken ‘biriyani’ comes on a flaming plate. Don’t miss the scrumptious kashka bademjan (IR12,000), eggplant paste with yoghurt, mint and roasted red peppers.
reviewed
-
N
Revolving Restaurant
A Plexiglas elevator fires you through the Hotel Elgoli’s atrium like Charlie in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory for predictably great views. The basic charge of IR50,000 entitles you to raid the soup-n-salad bar. Then add main courses including steaks, sturgeon kababs and fried shrimp.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
O
Sofre-Khaneh Sonatee Ali Ghapoo
This big, noisy subterranean restaurant is where Iranians go for a boisterous group meal. Waiters in traditional dress set the tone and the atmosphere is as enjoyable as the Iranian food. The fun is expensive by Tehran standards and gets more so after the traditional band starts at 9pm.
reviewed
-
P
Yalda
Moulded ceilings, pastel-toned wall paintings and a gently upmarket feel make this a congenial place to taste chelo-gusht (IR40, 000). Opt for baqelipulau (herb pilaf) when selecting the type of rice. Mast (yogurt) sets off the flavours perfectly.
reviewed
-
Q
Castle Teahouse
This vaulted stone chamber has the obligatory carpeted bed-seats and serves lovely cinnamon tea in china pots. However, it's a little touristy and the only food, a delicately flavoured ash (IR5000), comes disappointingly in disposable plastic bowls.
reviewed
-
Garden Restaurants
The garden restaurants lining the road before Fin Garden are the best places to eat and are hugely popular with Kashanis, especially in the evenings. Most have water running soothingly through the eating area and the whole experience is quite social.
reviewed
-
R
Kumeh
The most interesting of a huddle of restaurants in the Park-e-Shahr area, Kumeh has Irano- Hawaiian covered dining platforms outside. Inside is more standard but sharing a post-prandial qalyan here is an ideal way to meet friendly regulars.
reviewed
