Café entertainment in Iran
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Sa’adi Teahouse
This subterranean chaykhaneh isn’t quite as atmospheric as the Hafez version, but it’s still plenty of fun.
reviewed
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Valiasr's Karimkhan (Bozorg) Sq
About 4km east of Abaresan Crossing is the wealthy if architecturally neutral Valiasr District. While hardly SoHo, it's the nearest Tabriz comes to an entertainment district. The city's gilded youth sip espressos around Valiasr's Karimkhan (Bozorg) Sq and make a nightly passeggiata along pedestrianised Shahriyar St, misleadingly nicknamed Champs Elysées.
In just a few minutes here we met Iranian punks, tuft-bearded Metallica fans and even spotted a transvestite waggling his/her hips far more provocatively than any woman could dare to.
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A
Qeysarieh Tea Shop
Sitting at the outdoor tables, sipping tea (IR5000 per person) and puffing qalyan (IR10,000), is the perfect way to soak up this beautiful ‘half of the world’, especially when the colours and moods of the square change in the late afternoon. And despite its position, the Qeysarieh Tea Shop is often pretty quiet. The tea shop is up a steep staircase to the left of the Qeysarieh Portal.
reviewed
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B
Azadegan Teahouse
In a lane off the northeastern corner of Imam Sq, this is the classic old-style teahouse, with an astonishing collection of teahouse-junk hanging from the walls and ceiling and grumpy men lined up opposite each other sipping tea and smoking…ahm, hang on… It’s just sipping and eating before 6pm; the qalyans come out after that.
reviewed
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C
Gandhi Shopping Centre
Home to several cool little cafés peopled largely by young and fairly liberal Tehranis, this is your one-stop café-society stop. It’s a fun place to hang out in the afternoon and evening; just choose a café you like, settle in and then perhaps eat in one of the centre’s upscale restaurants.
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D
Café
In the lovely gardens of the Film Museum of Iran, this chic café serves a wide range of expensive but very drinkable Italian coffees and light meals. It’s an artsy, international scene.
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E
Mosbat Cafe
Marginally the best of Valiasr’s trendy coffee shops thanks to its stylish downstairs triangular tables and wooden ‘bar’ seating. Upstairs is less appealing.
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F
Teria Ani
This is allegedly the oldest café in Esfahan and with its dim interior, regular clientele and oddball characters, it feels like an inner-city dive bar.
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G
Café Hafta-Do Hasht
One of the best places to get in touch with Tehran’s hip young artistic community is this café. The coffee, wide range of teas and snacks are all good.
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H
Khajo Teahouse
One of three little places selling tea and qalyan on the side of the rocky slope above the Quran Gate. Panoramic city views at sunset.
reviewed
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I
Sanaee Coffee Shop
Sanaee makes and sells all manner of imported bean, and some of the richest and best chocolate milkshakes on earth (you be the judge).
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J
Gandi 35
This hip café is popular and serves tasty and fair-value light meals with its range of coffee.
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K
Babak
A stylish green, cream and chrome coffee-bar serving sundaes and shakes.
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L
Orkideh
Good coffee shop, located a block east of Karimkhan Sq.
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M
Sharshab
Good coffee shop, located just south of Karimkhan Sq.
reviewed