Entertainment in Iran
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A
Si-o-Seh Bridge Teahouse
This teahouse at the north end of Si-o-Seh Bridge is an Esfahani institution (and it’s not touristy) and the last of the bridge chaykhanehs. The teahouse is typically male dominated, but foreign women do get honorary male treatment and it is invariably a boisterous atmosphere, especially under the pylons.
reviewed
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Sa’adi Teahouse
This subterranean chaykhaneh isn’t quite as atmospheric as the Hafez version, but it’s still plenty of fun.
reviewed
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Valiasr's Karimkhan (Bozorg) Sq
About 4km east of Abaresan Crossing is the wealthy if architecturally neutral Valiasr District. While hardly SoHo, it's the nearest Tabriz comes to an entertainment district. The city's gilded youth sip espressos around Valiasr's Karimkhan (Bozorg) Sq and make a nightly passeggiata along pedestrianised Shahriyar St, misleadingly nicknamed Champs Elysées.
In just a few minutes here we met Iranian punks, tuft-bearded Metallica fans and even spotted a transvestite waggling his/her hips far more provocatively than any woman could dare to.
reviewed
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B
Qeysarieh Tea Shop
Sitting at the outdoor tables, sipping tea (IR5000 per person) and puffing qalyan (IR10,000), is the perfect way to soak up this beautiful ‘half of the world’, especially when the colours and moods of the square change in the late afternoon. And despite its position, the Qeysarieh Tea Shop is often pretty quiet. The tea shop is up a steep staircase to the left of the Qeysarieh Portal.
reviewed
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C
Tezatre Shahr
The huge, circular Tezatre Shahr is Tehran’s biggest and most impressive theatre and the place you’re most likely to see Iranian stage actors at work – performing in Farsi, of course. The booking staff speak English so call them to find out what’s coming up. Performances are normally at 6.30pm or 7.30pm and cost about IR25,000.
reviewed
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D
Azadegan Teahouse
In a lane off the northeastern corner of Imam Sq, this is the classic old-style teahouse, with an astonishing collection of teahouse-junk hanging from the walls and ceiling and grumpy men lined up opposite each other sipping tea and smoking…ahm, hang on… It’s just sipping and eating before 6pm; the qalyans come out after that.
reviewed
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E
Gandhi Shopping Centre
Home to several cool little cafés peopled largely by young and fairly liberal Tehranis, this is your one-stop café-society stop. It’s a fun place to hang out in the afternoon and evening; just choose a café you like, settle in and then perhaps eat in one of the centre’s upscale restaurants.
reviewed
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Azadi Sports Stadium
Iran’s favourite sport is football (soccer), which is played at several smaller stadiums and the giant-sized, 100,000-capacity Azadi Sports Stadium. Matches are normally played on Thursday and Friday but to find out where, your best bet is to ask a man working in your hotel.
reviewed
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Chaikhaneh Morshed
Easily-missed steps southeast of Dadgar Alley lead up to this semi traditional teahouse. Décor is tasteful apart from the cigarette-smoking stuffed lamb. The boisterous clientele of rockabilly-style 20-something males might get over-excited by a female presence.
reviewed
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F
Bame Sahel Teahouse
On the top of Sahel Hotel, Bame Sahel is a bit rough around the edges and very local, and all the better for it. Escape the traffic for tea, or enjoy a good dizi dinner (IR27,000). There’s also a breakfast buffet (IR20,000).
reviewed
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Chaykhaneh Aqaqia
This wonderfully unpretentious, cheap and down-market all-male teahouse has chess and nard to play. Easily missed, the entrance is on the left off a covered access-way to the workaday Sadd Sultani caravanserai.
reviewed
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Soot-e Delan
This indoor/outdoor chaykhaneh (teahouse) is a fun place to sit and socialise over chay (tea) and qalyan (water pipe) with the young men of Bam. The location deep in a park is not great for solo women.
reviewed
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G
Kahveteria Sonati Tarbiat
Cosy, gently romantic brick-vaulted café for tea and dates (IR10,000) served on porcelain featuring Qajar royalty. Women can smoke a qalyan here without incurring the stares of 40 bemused grey-beards.
reviewed
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H
Café
In the lovely gardens of the Film Museum of Iran, this chic café serves a wide range of expensive but very drinkable Italian coffees and light meals. It’s an artsy, international scene.
reviewed
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I
Ghaem Teahouse
This is an ideal, if somewhat pricey, place from which to watch the people and traffic carnage over tea, qalyan and dates (IR40,000, 4pm to midnight only). It also does the usual range of kababs.
reviewed
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J
Mosbat Cafe
Marginally the best of Valiasr’s trendy coffee shops thanks to its stylish downstairs triangular tables and wooden ‘bar’ seating. Upstairs is less appealing.
reviewed
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K
Teria Ani
This is allegedly the oldest café in Esfahan and with its dim interior, regular clientele and oddball characters, it feels like an inner-city dive bar.
reviewed
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Labkhand Coffee Shop
The stylish, second-floor Labkhand was going off like the proverbial frog in a sock. Good fun. It also serves some of the best coffee we drank in Iran.
reviewed
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L
Café Hafta-Do Hasht
One of the best places to get in touch with Tehran’s hip young artistic community is this café. The coffee, wide range of teas and snacks are all good.
reviewed
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Shake Shop
For the best banana shake (IR4500) on the coast head for the unnamed shake shop, opposite and slightly west of Hotel Ghods.
reviewed
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M
Khajo Teahouse
One of three little places selling tea and qalyan on the side of the rocky slope above the Quran Gate. Panoramic city views at sunset.
reviewed
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N
Sanaee Coffee Shop
Sanaee makes and sells all manner of imported bean, and some of the richest and best chocolate milkshakes on earth (you be the judge).
reviewed
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O
Gandi 35
This hip café is popular and serves tasty and fair-value light meals with its range of coffee.
reviewed
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P
Babak
A stylish green, cream and chrome coffee-bar serving sundaes and shakes.
reviewed
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Q
Orkideh
Good coffee shop, located a block east of Karimkhan Sq.
reviewed