Shah-e Cheragh

Lonely Planet review

The remains of Sayyed Mir Ahmad (a brother of Imam Reza) who died in Shiraz in AD 835 are housed at the famous Mausoleum of Shah-e Cheragh. A mausoleum was first erected over the grave in the mid-14th century and it has been an important Shiite shrine and place of pilgrimage ever since.

The expansive courtyard is a great place to sit and discreetly observe the moving climax to what is an important religious rite for Shiites. Non-Muslims should ask for permission before entering - if you are polite and well presented, you'll be allowed in. The multicoloured reflections from the countless minute mirror tiles inside the shrine are quite dazzling and the golden-topped minarets above it are superb. Women must put on a chador if they plan to enter the shrine itself; you can borrow one from the bookshop outside the complex. Cameras are forbidden inside the shrine but permitted in the courtyard.