Middle Eastern restaurants in Central Iran
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Yord Cultural Complex
In an enormous colourful yord (tent) about 8km northwest of town, this complex not only offers the chance to enjoy some fine Iranian-nomad food, but also to experience the Qashqa’i culture. The warm atmosphere, colourful costumes, live music and delicious food afford a dreamy escape from modern life into a Qashqa’i tented embrace. Yord is almost impossible to reach by public transport, so ask your hotel to write the name in Farsi and get a taxi (about IR25,000); it is also worth paying the taxi to wait for you (about IR70,000 total) as taxis out here are rare indeed.
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Bastani Restaurant
In the shadow of the Imam Mosque, the Bastani is the best-located restaurant in Esfahan. That, however, is where the compliments end. In recent years the quality of the food has been less consistent. Which is a pity, as the menu is full of interesting-sounding dishes. If you do eat here, the billing can be confusing so check it carefully. It’s a pity, as the menu is full of interesting-sounding dishes and it used to be good. Hopefully it will pick up.
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Hammam-e Khan Restaurant
Deep in the heart of the old city, this restored underground hammam is one of the original historic restorations in Yazd and deserves its ongoing popularity. The interior is all tranquil pools, arched ceilings and fine tilework, and the food is delicious (as long as it’s not too busy).
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Khangostar Restaurant
Located in Julfa Hotel, Khangostar Restaurant offers probably the best food in Esfahan – locals, our own experience and overwhelmingly positive reader feedback can attest to this. Servings are enormous here, (even by Iranian standards!) and the menu large and varied, but mainly Iranian. It’s busy rather than romantic, and the salad and dessert bars might seem a bit Sizzler, but hey, you won’t complain when you get there.
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Sharzeh Traditional Restaurant
Talk about atmosphere! The night we ate at the Sharzeh it was going off like the proverbial frog in a sock, with diners singing and clapping along with musicians playing traditional music in the centre of the two-level space. Great fun! The Iranian food was well-prepared, tasty and plentiful. It’s diagonally opposite the entrance to the Vakil Bazaar. There’s no English sign; look for the man in costume outside an arcade.
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Shater Abbas Restaurant 1
The low light, open kitchen, bustling staff and modern design touches create an atmosphere that is hugely popular with middle-class Shirazis. The menu mixes the classic range of kababs with some less familiar dishes – turkey kabab and mushroom steak, for example. Prices seem to have climbed with demand, sharply. Look for the flame torches outside.
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Restaurant Shahrzad
The opulent Qajar-style wall-paintings, stained-glass windows and mirror work contribute to the Shahrzad’s reputation as the best restaurant in Esfahan. And on a good night, it’s excellent – strip lights notwithstanding. Too often, however, it’s packed with tour groups and the service (and food) feels factory produced.
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Sofreh Khaneh Sonnati
Just off Imam Sq, this restaurant uses stained glass, colourful tiles and takhts (day beds) to create a Qajar-era (if slightly touristy) ambience. The food makes it memorable, with Esfahani biryani and khoresht-e bademjan (aubergine or eggplant stew) some of the well-prepared and reasonably priced recommendations.
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Yavar Restaurant
For traditional Shirazi food, local prices and character, the Yavar is excellent. The eslamboli (rice and tomato) and khoresht bademjan (eggplant stew) make a refreshing alternative to kababs (which it also has). There’s no English sign; look for Hossein riding a white horse across the front wall.
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Garden Restaurants
The garden restaurants lining the road before Fin Garden are the best places to eat and are hugely popular with Kashanis, especially in the evenings. Most have water running soothingly through the eating area and the whole experience is quite social.
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Marco Polo Restaurant
Set like a crown atop the Orient Hotel, this glass-sided restaurant serves up sumptuous views of the Masjed-e Jameh and surrounding blue-tiled domes and delicious Iranian food that’s fit for the setting. Ideal for a romantic dinner.
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Aroosh Khorshid
Convenient to the cheap accommodation, the Aroosh has plenty of old paraphernalia hanging about and the big space can have a decent atmosphere when it’s busy. The food is decent if unadventurous; check the bill carefully.
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Mozaffar Traditional Restaurant
A recent addition to the sonnati scene, the Mozaffar is set in and around a particularly large courtyard, with both private rooms and takhts. To the standard Iranian menu, add (brace yourself) pizza.
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Mikhak Restaurant
Just off the northeast end of the bazaar, the Mikhak serves quality Iranian comfort food that seems to comfort half of the bazaris every day. Vegetarians should look elsewhere.
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Nemoner Sandwich
Fancy a camel burger? This modest little place can knock one up in about three minutes. There’s no English sign, but it’s directly opposite the camel butchery.
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Mahdi Faludeh
The most famous faludeh (IR3000 a cup) shop in Shiraz that does a good line in bastani, too. It’s opposite the Arg and beside the mosque entrance.
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Restoran-e Sa’di
This place is a classic lower middle-class Esfahani restaurant, with a cheapish, not that stylish, small menu with only half the dishes available.
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Kalleh Pache
If you take the ‘when in Rome’ philosophy seriously, or just like the taste of sheep brains, then this tiny shop is for you.
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Khorshid
This modern Iranian place appeals to upwardly mobile young Esfahanis with its relaxed atmosphere and reasonably priced Iranian food.
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Baharestan Restaurant
Forget atmosphere and style, the Baharestan is about tasty staples at tasty prices; the khoresht is best.
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Haji Baba Restaurant
Not exactly atmospheric, but the food is delicious, location and opening hours convenient and prices reasonable.
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Azam Beryani
Biryani is an Esfahani speciality and this modest little place is a favourite of Esfahanis. Join the queue.
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Soofi Traditional Restaurant 2
Beside the Setareh Fars shopping centre; popular with young, wealthy Shirazis; live music at night.
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Restaurant Hatam
No frills, soulless cheapie with a limited range of decent Iranian food.
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