Timche-ye Amin al Dowleh

The best way to appreciate the extent of Kashan's bazaar is to climb to its roof. There are tiny staircases throughout and it's fun to ask a bazari (bazaar shopkeeper) to lead you up. If that doesn't work, head to the magnificent Timche-ye Amin al Dowleh , a high dome with lavish interior mouldings completed in 1868. Beneath the dome, in a square dominated by carpet shops, ask the guys at the Chaykhaneh Caravan Sara to show you to the roof (they might ask for a payment, but not if you eat there).

You can climb all the way to the top of the dome, from where the views over the brown town and bulbous roofscape of the bazaar are inspired. Look for the just-dyed wool drying in the sun.