Imam Square

Lonely Planet review

When French poet Renier described Esfahan as 'half of the world' in the 16th century, it was the myriad wonders of the square called Naqsh-e Jahan that inspired him. The description wouldn't be out of place today, because while it is now officially called Imam Square few people use that name and it remains home to arguably the most majestic collection of buildings in the Islamic world.

Naqsh-e Jahan means 'pattern of the world', and it's a world that owes much to the vision of Shah Abbas the Great. Begun in 1602 as the centrepiece of Abbas' new capital, the square was designed as home to the finest jewels of the Safavid empire - the incomparable Imam Mosque, the supremely elegant Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque and the indulgent and lavishly decorated Ali Qapu Palace and Qeysarieh Portal. At 512m long and 163m wide, this immense space is the second-largest square on earth - only Mao Zedong's severe Tiananmen Sq in Beijing is bigger.

The square has changed little since it was built. The upper level of arched arcades surrounding the square is empty these days, though long-talked-about plans to restore it for use as a museum of Esfahan's history are still being discussed. The open space has been reconstituted several times, most recently by the Pahlavis, who added the fountains. At either end of the square, you can still see the goal posts used in regular polo games 400 years ago. You'll see these polo matches depicted on miniatures for sale around the square.

The square is best visited in the late afternoon and early evening when local families flood in to outnumber the Iranian and foreign tourists. This is also when the fountains are turned on, the light softens and the splendid architecture is illuminated; you can't beat the view from the Qeysarieh Tea Shop .