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Ablutions Fountain
In the centre of the Jameh Mosque's main courtyard, which is surrounded by four contrasting iwans, is an attractive ablutions fountain designed to imitate the Kaaba at Mecca; would-be haj pilgrims would use it to practise the appropriate rituals. The two-storey porches around the courtyard's perimeter were constructed in the late 15th century.
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Ali Qapu Palace
The majestic six-storey Ali Qapu Palace, built at the very end of the 16th century as a residence for Shah Abbas I, also served as a monumental gateway (Ali Qapu means the 'Gate of Ali') to the royal palaces that lay in the parklands beyond. Named for Abbas' hero, the Imam Ali, it was built to make an impression and at six storeys and 48m tall it did. French traveller Sir John Chardin described it as 'the largest palace ever built in any capital'.
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Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan
Dating from Sassanian times, the crumbling mud bricks of the Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan stare out over the Zayandeh River and Esfahan city from a low hill on its outskirts. The 10-minute scramble uphill is worth the effort on a clear day. It's about 2km west from the Manar Jomban, along the same road.
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Bazar-e Bozorg
Esfahan's Bazar-e Bozorg links Imam Sq with the Jameh Mosque, 1.7km northeast. The bazaar's arched passageways are topped by a series of small domes, each with an aperture at its apex spilling shafts of light onto the commerce below. While the oldest parts of the bazaar, around the Jameh Mosque, are more than 1000 years old, most of what you see today was built during Shah Abbas' aggressive expansions in the early 1600s.
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Chehel Sotun
One of the only surviving palaces from the royal parklands between Imam Sq and Chahar Bagh Abbasi St in Estafan, Safavid-era Chehel Sotun is today most famous for its frescoes. It was built as a pleasure pavilion and reception hall, using the Achaemenid-inspired talar (columnar porch) style.
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Chubi Bridge
Nearly 150m long, with 21 arches, Chubi Bridge was built by Shah Abbas II in 1665, primarily to help irrigate palace gardens in the area. Chubi and the two parlours within were for the exclusive use of the shah and his courtiers. Until recently one of these parlours was one of the most atmospheric teahouses in Iran; hopefully it will be again.
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Church of Bethlehem
Of the other 12 churches in Jolfa only two are open (sometimes). The frescoes on the walls and ceilings of the Church of Bethlehem, built in 1628, are arguably of a higher quality than those in Vank Cathedral. The interior of the high dome is decorated with swirling black motifs on a golden background, while the base is surrounded by paintings of Biblical scenes. The Church of St Mary (Kelisa-ye Maryam) is similarly decorated, though with less flair. If the churches are closed, as they often are, and door-knocking doesn't work, ask for help at the cathedral.
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Church of St Mary
Of the other 12 churches in Jolfa only two are open (sometimes). The frescoes on the walls and ceilings of the Church of Bethlehem, built in 1628, are arguably of a higher quality than those in Vank Cathedral. The Church of St Mary is similarly decorated, though with less flair. If the churches are closed, as they often are, and door-knocking doesn't work, ask for help at the cathedral.
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Decorative Arts Museum of Iran
Near the entrance to the Chehel Sotun Palace in Estafan are three museums. The Decorative Arts Museum of Iran is in a building that once served as stables and warehouse to Safavid kings. Today it contains a fine collection from the Safavid and Qajar periods, including miniatures, glassware, lacquer work, ancient Qurans, calligraphy, ceramics, woodcarvings, traditional costumes, weapons and horse gear. The other two museums are the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Natural History Museum.
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Hammam-e Ali Gholi Agha
In the historic district of Bid Abad in Esfahan, the recently restored Hammam-e Ali Gholi Agha is now a well-maintained (but poorly signed) museum to bathhouses. Fortunately there is information at the entrance, explaining the Qajar-era history and uses of the hammam . English-speaking guides are also available. It's worth a look, especially if you didn't see Hammam-e Sultan Mir Ahmad in Kashan.
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Hasht Behesht Palace
Once the most luxuriously decorated in Esfahan, the interior of the small Hasht Behesht Palace has been extensively damaged over the years. However, it retains a seductive tranquillity, with the soaring wooden columns on its open-sided terrace seeming to mirror the trees in the surrounding park.
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Imam Mosque
The Imam Mosque is one of the most beautiful mosques in the world. The richness of its blue-tiled mosaic designs and its perfectly proportioned Safavid-era architecture form a visually stunning monument to the imagination of Shah Abbas I and the ability of his architect. The sumptuous decoration of the mosque perfectly complements the architectural elegance.
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Imam Square
When French poet Renier described Esfahan as 'half of the world' in the 16th century, it was the myriad wonders of the square called Naqsh-e Jahan that inspired him. The description wouldn't be out of place today, because while it is now officially called Imam Square few people use that name and it remains home to arguably the most majestic collection of buildings in the Islamic world.
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Iwans
Iwans are rectangular halls opening onto a courtyard. The Jameh Mosque's south iwan is the most elaborate, with Mongol-era stalactite mouldings, some splendid 15th-century mosaics on the side walls, and two minarets. The north iwan has a wonderful monumental porch with the Seljuk's customary Kufic inscriptions and austere brick pillars in the sanctuary.
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Jameh Mosque
Jameh is a stunning compendium of Islamic architectural styles, Seljuk, Mongol and Safavid. The largest mosque in Iran, it's a testament to the ingenuity, aesthetic sensibilities, engineering prowess and devotion of generations of Esfahanis. While there's evidence of earlier buildings, the oldest parts of the present structure date to the 11th century.
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Jameh Mosque Domes
In the Jameh Mosque, the room beneath the grand Nezam al-Molk Dome and the Seljuk-era hypostyle prayer halls either side just breathe history, while at the other end of the complex the Taj al-Molk Dome is widely considered to be the finest brick dome ever built. While relatively small, it is said to be mathematically perfect, and has survived dozens of earthquakes with nary a blemish for more than 900 years. To reach it you walk through a forest of imposing pillars.
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Jolfa
Esfahan's Armenian quarter is Jolfa. It dates from the time of Shah Abbas I, who transported this colony of Christians from the town of Jolfa (now on Iran's northern border) en masse, and named the village 'New Jolfa'. Abbas sought their skills as merchants, entrepreneurs and artists - a look at the walls of Vank Cathedral reveals what he was after.
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Khaju Bridge
Arguably the finest of Esfahan's bridges, the Khaju Bridge was built by Shah Abbas II in about 1650 (although a bridge is believed to have crossed the waters here since the time of Tamerlane). It also doubles as a dam, and has always been as much a meeting place as a bearer of traffic.
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Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh
The Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh was built between 1704 and 1714 as part of an expansive complex that included a caravanserai (now the Abbasi Hotel) and the Bazar-e Honar. Revenues from these buildings paid for the upkeep of the madraseh.
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Manar Jomban
The 14th-century tomb of Abu Abdullah, a revered dervish, is 7km west of central Esfahan in Kaladyn. The tomb is popularly known as Manar Jomban because pushing hard against one minaret will start it, and the other minaret, swaying back and forth. The minarets were added during the 17th century. Attendants climb up to shake them once an hour, on the hour. Iranians love this sight, but it's only barely worth the trip - and on slow days they might not be shaken at all.
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Museum of Contemporary Art
Near the entrance to the Chehel Sotun Palace in Estafan are three museums. The Museum of Contemporary Art shows temporary exhibits, mainly of Esfahani artists. The other two museums are the Decorative Arts Museum of Iran and the Natural History Museum.
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Natural History Museum
Near the entrance to the Chehel Sotun Palace in Estafan are three museums. A large 15th-century building is home to the Natural History Museum, where the fibreglass dinosaurs out front are not that enticing. The exhibits inside are better but won't have you rushing off to write home about them. The other two museums are the Decorative Arts Museum of Iran and the Museum of Contemporary Art.
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Pigeon Towers
For centuries Esfahan relied on pigeons to supply guano as fertiliser for the city's famous fields of watermelons. The guano was collected in almost 3000 squat, circular pigeon towers, each able to house about 14,000 birds. Today they are unused, made redundant by chemical fertiliser, but more than 700 of the mud-brick towers remain in the city's environs.
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Room of Sultan Uljeitu
To fully appreciate the Jameh Mosque you must go into the fine interior rooms. The Room of Sultan Uljeitu, a 14th-century Shiite convert, is home to one of the mosque's greatest treasures - an exquisite stucco mihrabawash with dense Quranic inscriptions and floral designs. Next door is the Timurid-era Winter Hall (Beit al-Sheta), built in 1448 and lit by alabaster skylights - ask the caretaker to turn off the neon (or do it yourself) to see the full effect.
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Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
A study in harmonious understatement, this mosque is the perfect complement to the overwhelming richness of the larger Imam Mosque, and is arguably the most fabulous mosque in Iran. Built between 1602 and 1619, during the reign of Shah Abbas I, the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque is dedicated to the ruler's father-in-law, Sheikh Lotfollah, a revered Lebanese scholar of Islam who was invited to Esfahan to oversee the king's mosque (now the Imam Mosque) and theological school.
