Bazar-e Honar

Lonely Planet review

Esfahan has probably the widest selection of handicrafts in Iran. The best buys are carpets, hand-painted miniatures on camel bone (many of the artists run the stores themselves and are happy to give demonstrations), intricate metalwork and lacquerware. Prices can be higher than elsewhere but there's more choice and it's certainly more pleasurable to shop here than in Tehran. For gold, head directly to Bazar-e Honar .

The Bazar-e Bozorg and the arcades around Imam Square are literally full of shops. You'll find postcards and junk souvenirs for sale in one store, and expensive works of art in the next. Stores vary by price, quality and honesty, with competition among the carpet dealers particularly fierce (and sometimes nasty), so don't pay too much attention to what one shop owner says about his competitor.

Some places do employ high-pressure sales tactics, but most are friendly and willing to chat over a chay (tea) without twisting your arm too much. It can actually be quite enjoyable as long as you remember that you don't have to buy anything. Nevertheless, whatever you're shopping for, check prices in several stores and bargain hard.