Getting around
Most travellers bus around northern Sumatra and then hop on a plane to Java, largely avoiding the Third World conditions of Sumatra’s highway system. Most of the island is mountainous jungle and the poorly maintained roads form a twisted pile of spaghetti on the undulating landscape. Don’t count on getting anywhere very quickly on Sumatra.
On the other hand, Sumatra’s airports are incongruously modern and numerous, providing a quick and cheap means of arrival or escape.
Contents
Boat
Most boat travel within Sumatra connects the main island with the many satellite islands lining the coast.
The most commonly used routes link Banda Aceh with Pulau Weh, Sibolga with Pulau Nias, and Padang with Pulau Siberut (in the Mentawai Islands chain). In the less-visited areas of southeastern Sumatra, Jambi, Palembang and Pekanbaru are important towns for river transport. The Riau islands of Batam and Bintan are also linked to southeastern port towns by ferry.
Most long-distance ferries have several classes, ranging from filthy and crowded to filthy and less crowded. An upgrade in class might be a necessary luxury.
Bus & tram
Bus
Bus is the most common mode of transport around Sumatra and in many cases is the only option for intercity travel. But it is far from efficient or comfortable. The primary thoroughfare is the Trans-Sumatran Hwy, which is little more than a jungle-bound animal track for beasts who eat petrol. Locals prefer a more affectionate term – ‘chicken roads’ – as the pavement inexplicably disappears, oncoming traffic must yield to one another and the potholes are as big as moon craters. It is not uncommon during the rainy season for mudslides to block the road or for bridges to wash out.
Most trips take extra long because of road conditions. At this laborious pace you have plenty of time to soak up the views: cascades of deep lush greens, terraced rice fields, mottled rushing rivers and isolated villages gathered around the communal well.
Buses range from economy sardine cans to modern air-con coaches. At the top of the class structure are super-executive buses with reclining seats, deep-freeze air-con, toilets, and an all-night serenade from Scorpions albums. Many passengers come prepared with winter hats, gloves and earplugs.
Bus terminals in Sumatra can range from modern and organised to run-down and abandoned. In some towns, you can go straight to the bus terminal to buy tickets and board buses, while other towns rely on bus company offices located outside the terminals. Ticket prices vary greatly depending on the quality of the bus and perceived gullibility of the traveller. It pays to shop around and to ask at your guesthouse about reliable companies; but do be aware that some accommodations act as booking agents and charge a commission for their services.
Train
The only useful train service in Sumatra runs from Bandarlampung to Palembang, and then on to Lubuklinggau. There are also less useful passenger trains from Medan to Pematangsiantar, Tanjung Balai and Rantauparapat.
Local transport
The usual Indonesian forms of transport – bemo/opelet (small minibuses), becak and bendi (two person horse-drawn carts) – are available for getting around towns and cities in Sumatra. The base rate for a bemo or opelet is 1500Rp to 2000Rp, while the minimum fare for becak and bendi is 5000Rp.
Establish a price for a becak ride before climbing aboard. For an opelet, you pay after you disembark.
Air
An hour on a plane is an attractive alternative to what may seem like an eternity on a bone-shaking bus filled with chain smokers and cockroaches. For long-distance travel, airfares are competitive with bus and ferry fares, but routes within the island are limited. Medan to Banda Aceh and Medan to Gunung Sitoli are two popular air hops.
Domestic carriers include Merpati, Mandala, Jatayu, Adam Air, Lion Air and Sriwijaya. Sabang Merauke-Raya Air Charter (SMAC) flies to minor destinations that the bigger airlines don’t bother with. See the Sumatra Airfares map for routes and sample fares.
All Sumatran airports charge an airport departure tax (between 15,000Rp and 30,000Rp) that is not included in your ticket. Ticket agents are located in the smallest of towns and typically charge 10% commission.
Sumatra
- Sumatra Overview
- Places in Sumatra
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Getting there & around
- History
