Getting there & away
Most long-distance buses leave from bus company offices along, or just off, Jl Andi Mappanyukki. The most comfortable buses (with slightly higher prices to match) are Litha, Batutumonga and Alam Indah. Try to book the ticket a day or so in advance.
There are plenty of buses heading north to Pendolo (70, 000Rp, eight hours), Tentena (90, 000Rp, 12 hours), Poso (110, 000Rp, 13 hours) and Palu (135, 000Rp, 20 hours). Even more buses head south to Pare Pare (25, 000Rp, five hours). To Terminal Panaikang in Makassar (45, 000 to 75, 000Rp, eight hours), buses often run at night, and prices vary according to speed and the level of comfort and space. Various companies also have services to Mamuju via Polewali, from where there are connections to Mamasa. The only direct bus between Tana Toraja and Mamasa leaves from Makale.
From Terminal Bolu, 2km north of Rantepao, there are regular vehicles to Palopo. From outside Rachmat Restoran, Kijangs leave every minute to Makale (4000Rp, 20 minutes). See Around Tana Toraja for more details about transport between Rantepao and other places in Tana Toraja. Plenty of bemos travel between Rantepao and Terminal Bolu.
Flying – especially into Tana Toraja – provides a dramatic look at the landscape and architecture of traditional villages. The only carrier, DAS, flies from Makassar at 10.30am on Tuesday and Friday for 250, 000Rp, returning around 11.40am. However, most locals consider this an unreliable service. Tickets can be booked through Toraja Permai (21785; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 10) or at hotels around town.