Maluku (Moluccas) Getting there & around

Getting around

Boat

Pelni services within Maluku are patchy and the only direct boat link from Ternate to Ambon is its fortnightly Lambelu (southbound only). Some medium-range hops are served by uncomfortable ASDP ferries or by wooden boats known as motor. The latter have limited sweaty, wooden-board ‘bed’ spaces but tickets aren’t always numbered so to secure one you might need to arrive many hours before departure. Perintis cargo boats are bigger but not designed with passengers in mind. Bring waterproofs. They generally run on roughly three-weekly loops via a string of smaller intermediate ports that are way off any tourist route. Ask at relevant harbours for departure details and always be prepared for uncertainty and rough conditions.

Speedboats link nearby islands and roadless villages. Locals use very specific terms for boat types: so don’t be immediately put off if told that there isn’t a spid (covered multi-engine speedboat) to your destination. There might still be a Johnson (outboard-powered longboat) or a ketinting or lape-lape (smaller, short-hop motorised canoes). Speedboats generally depart when there are sufficient passengers, usually very early in the morning when seas are calmest. Choice is better on major market days. In several cases chartering your own boat is worth considering: smaller or diesel powered boats will be much cheaper than multi-engined petrol ones.

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Bus & tram

Bus, kijang, bemo & ojek

Maluku is mountainous and relatively undeveloped. The few roads that do exist are often potholed and narrow. The onlylong-distance buses are on Seram or Ambon-Seram routes. Especially on Halmahera and in rural Seram, shared Kijangs (fancy seven-seater overgrown Toyotas) are more common and comparatively pricey. Shorter routes are operated by bemo usually known as mobil. Renting an ojek (motorbike taxi) is usually very reasonable and the most pleasant way to travel if the rain holds off.

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Air

Merpati and Trigana Air weave a surprisingly impressive web of regional flights around Maluku. However with only four little planes between them for the whole network, engine trouble, bad weather or one-off charters can (and will) throw out the schedules for days. You can generally buy only one-way tickets booked from the departure point. Getting the return can be hit and miss: call the local airline agent or try asking a hotel to make a booking for you. Then pay on arrival. Smaller planes have 10kg baggage limits.

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