Sights in Maluku (Moluccas)
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Keraton
Built in 1796 and restored in semi-colonial style, the Sultan's Palace is still a family home. However there is a museum section (donation) containing a small but interesting collection of Portuguese and Dutch helmets, various swords and armour, plus memorabilia from the reigns of past sultans. Notice the genealogy of the Ternatean royal family dating back to 1257. The airy veranda offers wide views towards Halmahera.
First step in a visit is signing in at the Sekretariat kiosk (06:00-18:00) to find when a guide is available. If you're lucky you might even be granted an audience with the sultan's enchanting sister Ibu Rini, and hear tales (in fluent English) of the royal …
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Gunung Api Gamalama
This 1721m volcano is Pulau Ternate. Gamalama erupted in 1840, destroying almost every house on the island. Although it has blown its fiery nose as recently as 1980, 1983 and 1994 it is not considered imminently dangerous. A volcanology unit keeps careful watch from Marikuruba village. There are pleasant, short, clove-grove hikes from Air Tege Tege village (near the transmitter tower).
The going is very steep and climbing above the tree line is both strenuous and hazardous. Reaching the often cloud-shrouded summit takes around five hours and requires a guide. At least two foreign visitors have disappeared in the attempt; some claim this was because they broke taboos (eg n…
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Siwa Lima Museum
The Siwa Lima Museum displays Maluku's foremost collection of regional and colonial artefacts. It comprises two main buildings separated by 500m of road snaking beautifully up through steep, lovingly tended gardens. Air Salobar bemos terminate near the gardens' ornate gateway but as entry is from the upper section, consider using an ojek Rp10,000 to save a sweaty climb.
The upper rear terrace offers some of Ambon's most inspiring bay views and a stairway continuing from the top car park leads to a prettily flower-decked little Hindu Temple.
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Taman Makam Pahlawan Indonesia
Any bemo heading northeast (bound for Passo, Stain, Waai etc) passes two immaculately maintained graveyards in the Tantui district (outbound only). The Taman Makam Pahlawan Indonesia is dedicated to Indonesian servicemen killed fighting Malukan rebels during the 1950s and 1960s.
Remarkably the cemetery survived rioting in 2000 which devastated the nearby police arsenal. Tantui bemos loop back to the city centre passing the tourist office en route.
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Benteng Oranye
Almost hidden in the market-melee right at the centre of town are three re-concreted walls and four cannon-topped bastions. That's all that remains a massive 1607 fort, the Benteng Oranye that was headquarters of the entire Dutch VOC operation before it moved to Batavia (Jakarta) in around 1619. The fort later became the residence of the Dutch governors in Ternate.
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Benteng Kalamata
At the southernmost end of town, this small, heavy-handedly renovated fort is about 1km south of Bastiong. Once known as Benteng Kayu Merah (Red Wood Fort), it was built in 1540 by the Portuguese, and rebuilt by the Dutch in 1610. Waves lap right up to its angled walls and there are great views across to Tidore. Take a Rua, Sasa or Jambula bemo.
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Benteng Tolukko
Built by the Portuguese in 1512 and restored by the Dutch in 1610, this dinky little 'womb-shaped' fort was the first European stronghold on Ternate. For a donation the lady living beside the entrance can let you in and show you photos of the extensive 1996 renovations. Take any bemo bound for Dufa-Dufa (Rp2000, 3km from town centre).
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Commonwealth War Graves
Just beyond the Taman Makam Pahlawan Indonesia are the Commonwealth War Graves entombing allied servicemen who died in WWII.
Remarkably both cemeteries survived rioting in 2000 which devastated the nearby police arsenal. Tantui bemos loop back to the city centre passing the tourist office en route.
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Martha Christina Tiahahu Statue
The Martha Christina Tiahahu statue is worth the around Rp7000 ojek-ride if only for the wonderful views. Stop at the delightful Panorama Café en route for more such views.
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Francis Xavier Cathedral
The recently rebuilt Francis Xavier Cathedral has silver-strut steeples which glimmer mysteriously when seen from Jl Sirimau (take Kayu Putih bemos).
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Masjid Raya al-Fatah
The town's biggest mosque, Masjid Raya al-Fatah is a modern concrete affair with UFO-shaped dome.
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Mesjid Jami
Next door to Masjid Raya al-Fatah, the fanciful Mesjid Jami is much more photogenic.
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Keraton
Built in 1796 and restored in semi-colonial style, the Sultan's Palace is still a family home. However there is a museum section (donation) containing a small but interesting collection of Portuguese and Dutch helmets, various swords and armour, plus memorabilia from the reigns of past sultans. Notice the genealogy of the Ternatean royal family dating back to 1257. The airy veranda offers wide views towards Halmahera.
First step in a visit is signing in at the Sekretariat kiosk (06:00-18:00) to find when a guide is available. If you're lucky you might even be granted an audience with the sultan's enchanting sister Ibu Rini, and hear tales (in fluent English) of the royal …
reviewed
