Things to do in Surabaya
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De Boliva Kitchen & Lounge
A popular, if pricey, Western-style cafe with filling sandwiches (try the wholewheat BLT). Its desserts are famous, with crepes, sorbets and ice cream galore (including low-fat options).
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Old City
Even though much of Surabaya's historical centre is literally falling to pieces, the old city easily wins the 'Most Attractive Neighbourhood' prize. With crumbling Dutch architecture, strong Chinese influences and an Arab quarter, it's also the most interesting and idiosyncratic.
A good place to start exploring the old city is Jembatan Merah, the so-called 'Red Bridge' that saw fierce fighting during Indonesia's battle for independence.
Jl Jembatan Merah, running south of the bus terminal along the canal, is a grungy replica of Amsterdam, but worthy (although rundown) examples of Dutch architecture can be seen here. The area further south around the post office and Pelni o…
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House of Sampoerna
Just northwest of Jembatan Merah is the city’s best-presented attraction, the House of Sampoerna which is the home of one of Indonesia’s most famous kretek cigarette manufacturers. Whatever you think about the tobacco industry, this factory and museum makes a fascinating place to visit. The building itself is a wonderful 19th-century Dutch structure, originally an orphanage but later converted into a theatre (indeed Charlie Chaplin once dropped by). The former lobby now forms the museum and is something of a shrine to the Sampoerna empire, with exhibits on the use of cloves and the history of kretek in Indonesia alongside uniforms and drums of the Sampoerna marching b…
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Mesjid Ampel
The Mesjid Ampel is the most sacred mosque in Surabaya. I it was here that Sunan Ampel, one of the wali songo who brought Islam to Java, was buried in 1481. The mosque itself is a huge space, the vast expanse of its marble floor divided by dozens of wooden pillars, but there’s very little in the way of ornamentation. Behind the mosque pilgrims chant and present rose-petal offerings at Sunan Ampel’s grave.
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House of Sampoerna Café
The House of Sampoerna cigarette factory cafe, occupying a gorgeous colonial structure complete with stained-glass windows and classy seating, is the perfect spot for a meal. The menu is divided into east and west sections, with rawon and Singapore laksa from the former and fish and chips from the latter standing out. There are great desserts, a full bar, espresso coffee (and even a nonsmoking section!).
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Monumen Kapal Selam
In keeping with Indonesia's fascination with all things military, Surabaya's foremost stretch of renovated, waterside real estate centres around the hulk of the Pasopati, a Russian submarine commissioned into the Indonesian navy in 1962. The Pasopati itself is well maintained and there is a small landscaped park with a couple of cafés popular with young smoochers.
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Colors
Colors is a small venue that's big on live music. The bartenders and some locals will treat you like a long-lost cousin, and if you turn up early enough, you may get the chance to perform some karaoke with live backing. Bands play nightly until 02:00. If you're looking for cheap drinks, a chat with Surabayans and some quality live music, don't pass this place up.
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Soto Ambengan Pak Sadi
If you're looking for chicken dishes, then look no further than Pak Sadi's. Be sure not to overlook the famed lemon grass and coriander Madurese chicken soup, which is sublime. The place is best known, not surpisingly, for soto, a typical Indonesian soup filled with chicken or meat and other bits and pieces. Service is fast.
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Monumen Kapal Selam
Surabaya’s foremost stretch of renovated waterside real estate centres on the hulk of the Pasopati, a Russian submarine commissioned into the Indonesian navy in 1962. The Pasopati itself is well maintained, and there is a small landscaped park with a couple of cafes popular with young smoochers.
reviewed
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Ahisma
This elegant upmarket vegetarian restaurant has well-presented salads, tofu meals, soups, and lots of rice and noodle dishes; no MSG is used. It’s owned and run by a welcoming Indo-Chinese family and there’s a small (veggie) deli here too for snacks and biscuits. Nonsmoking.
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Tunjungan Plaza
For an air-conditioned setting, Tunjungan Plaza has a colossal selection of squeaky-clean Asian (including a great sushi bar), Western restaurants and cafes; the food court is on the 5th floor.
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Chinatown
To the east of Jembatan Merah is Surabaya's Chinatown, with hundreds of small businesses and warehouses. Becak and hand-pulled carts are still the best way to transport goods in the crowded, narrow streets.
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Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong Temple
The stunningly atmospheric Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong temple is primarily Buddhist, but has a variety of Confucian and Taoist altars if you can see them through the plumes of incense smoke.
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Surabaya Suki
This very popular Chinese restaurant has a vast menu that features excellent but expensive shark soup and abalone. An extensive vegetarian selection is also featured.
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Soto Ambengan Pak Sadi Asli
Everyone is here for the delicious soto ayam (chicken soup), which is served up with herbs, turmeric, plenty of peanuts and an egg or two if you want.
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Kalimas Harbour
From Suribaya's old city you can then head north to the Kalimas harbour, where brightly painted pinisi from Sulawesi and Kalimantan unload their wares.
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New San Thauw
San Thauw offers seafood that only comes fresher directly from the sea; choose your meal from the tank. Also serves some unusual dishes like cassava leaf soup.
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Top Ten
Surabayans love their nightclubs, and pack them out on weekends. Top Ten is one of the better ones, and can be found in Surabaya's largest shopping centre.
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Cafe Venezia
Venezia is a slightly faded old-school establishment in a venerable Dutch villa that offers Korean, Japanese and Indonesian dishes and ‘proper’ service.
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Jendala
This restaurant, in a beautiful colonial lodge, has a varied program of so-called ‘culturetainment’, ranging from theatre to dance to disco.
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Zangrandi Ice Cream Palace
This ice-cream parlour has been famous since Dutch times, and is still going strong. Traffic noise is a real issue here, however.
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Restoran Kuningan International
For a splurge, this top-class restaurant, housed in a converted Dutch villa, is renowned for its seafood – try the lobster.
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Tunjungan 21
One of the best in town, this large cinema complex shows recent Hollywood releases in English and has good sound quality.
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Desperados
Popular hotel bar west of the centre with live music; try the margaritas. There’s a cover charge of around 40,000Rp.
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