Sights in Surabaya
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Old City
Even though much of Surabaya's historical centre is literally falling to pieces, the old city easily wins the 'Most Attractive Neighbourhood' prize. With crumbling Dutch architecture, strong Chinese influences and an Arab quarter, it's also the most interesting and idiosyncratic.
A good place to start exploring the old city is Jembatan Merah, the so-called 'Red Bridge' that saw fierce fighting during Indonesia's battle for independence.
Jl Jembatan Merah, running south of the bus terminal along the canal, is a grungy replica of Amsterdam, but worthy (although rundown) examples of Dutch architecture can be seen here. The area further south around the post office and Pelni o…
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House of Sampoerna
Just northwest of Jembatan Merah is the city’s best-presented attraction, the House of Sampoerna which is the home of one of Indonesia’s most famous kretek cigarette manufacturers. Whatever you think about the tobacco industry, this factory and museum makes a fascinating place to visit. The building itself is a wonderful 19th-century Dutch structure, originally an orphanage but later converted into a theatre (indeed Charlie Chaplin once dropped by). The former lobby now forms the museum and is something of a shrine to the Sampoerna empire, with exhibits on the use of cloves and the history of kretek in Indonesia alongside uniforms and drums of the Sampoerna marching b…
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A
Mesjid Ampel
The Mesjid Ampel is the most sacred mosque in Surabaya. I it was here that Sunan Ampel, one of the wali songo who brought Islam to Java, was buried in 1481. The mosque itself is a huge space, the vast expanse of its marble floor divided by dozens of wooden pillars, but there’s very little in the way of ornamentation. Behind the mosque pilgrims chant and present rose-petal offerings at Sunan Ampel’s grave.
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B
Monumen Kapal Selam
In keeping with Indonesia's fascination with all things military, Surabaya's foremost stretch of renovated, waterside real estate centres around the hulk of the Pasopati, a Russian submarine commissioned into the Indonesian navy in 1962. The Pasopati itself is well maintained and there is a small landscaped park with a couple of cafés popular with young smoochers.
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Monumen Kapal Selam
Surabaya’s foremost stretch of renovated waterside real estate centres on the hulk of the Pasopati, a Russian submarine commissioned into the Indonesian navy in 1962. The Pasopati itself is well maintained, and there is a small landscaped park with a couple of cafes popular with young smoochers.
reviewed
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D
Chinatown
To the east of Jembatan Merah is Surabaya's Chinatown, with hundreds of small businesses and warehouses. Becak and hand-pulled carts are still the best way to transport goods in the crowded, narrow streets.
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E
Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong Temple
The stunningly atmospheric Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong temple is primarily Buddhist, but has a variety of Confucian and Taoist altars if you can see them through the plumes of incense smoke.
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Kalimas Harbour
From Suribaya's old city you can then head north to the Kalimas harbour, where brightly painted pinisi from Sulawesi and Kalimantan unload their wares.
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Surabaya Zoo
South of the city centre, Surabaya Zoo has a good collection of lions, tigers, elephants, hippos, kangaroos and reptiles. If you’re not planning to visit Komodo, the dragons are worth a visit – 32 mini-komodos hatched here in 2009. The animals look typically nonchalant, but the park is well laid out, with large, open enclosures.
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