Sights in Java
-
Kawah Sikidang
From Telaga Warna it’s about 1km along the main road to Candi Bima, and then another 1.2km to Kawah Sikidang, a volcanic crater with steaming vents and frantically bubbling mud ponds. Exercise extreme caution here – there are no guard rails to keep you from slipping off the sometimes muddy trails into the scalding-hot waters.
reviewed
-
Kraton Surakarta
Once the hub of an empire, today the Kraton Surakarta is a faded memorial of a bygone era. It’s worth a visit, but much of the kraton was destroyed by fire in 1985. Many of the inner buildings were rebuilt, but today the allure of this once-majestic palace has largely vanished and its structures left bare and unloved.
reviewed
-
National History Museum
In the base of the monument Monas, the National History Museum tells the story of Indonesia’s independence struggle in 48 dioramas using Thunderbirds-like models. The numerous uprisings against the Dutch are overstated but interesting; Sukarno is barely mentioned and the events surrounding the 1965 coup are a whitewash.
reviewed
-
A
Taman Sari
Just southwest of the kraton is this complex, which once served as a splendid pleasure park of palaces, pools and waterways for the sultan and his entourage. The Portuguese architect of this elaborate retreat, built between 1758 and 1765, was from Batavia – the story goes that the sultan had him executed in order to keep his hidden pleasure rooms secret.
reviewed
-
Gong Factory
One of the few remaining gongsmiths in West Java is located in Bogor. Visitors are welcome to drop by the gong factory, where gamelan instruments are smelted over a charcoal fire. As it takes two weeks to beat a copper gong into shape you may want to tip the workers here a note or two. A few pricey gongs and wayang golek puppets are on sale.
reviewed
-
B
Monumen Kapal Selam
In keeping with Indonesia's fascination with all things military, Surabaya's foremost stretch of renovated, waterside real estate centres around the hulk of the Pasopati, a Russian submarine commissioned into the Indonesian navy in 1962. The Pasopati itself is well maintained and there is a small landscaped park with a couple of cafés popular with young smoochers.
reviewed
-
Kawah Putih
The road south of Bandung leads to Ciwidey; from there the road winds through the hills to the turn-off to Kawah Putih, a volcanic crater with a beautiful turquoise lake. The turn-off is 6km before Rancabali, and then it is 8km to the small crater lake just below Gunung Patuha (2334m). Although it is only a small crater, Kawah Putih is exceptionally beautiful and eerily quiet when the mists roll in.
reviewed
-
C
Museum Geologi
About 3km north of the centre, the Museum Geologi is housed in the massive old headquarters of the Dutch Geological Service. It’s a good place to get to grips with all matters geological and volcanic in Indonesia, though there’s almost no information in English. Nevertheless it’s worth an hour or so poking around the lava stones, crystals and bones that include a model of Tyrannosaurus rex and a mammoth.
reviewed
-
D
Mesjid Ampel
The Mesjid Ampel is the most sacred mosque in Surabaya. I it was here that Sunan Ampel, one of the wali songo who brought Islam to Java, was buried in 1481. The mosque itself is a huge space, the vast expanse of its marble floor divided by dozens of wooden pillars, but there’s very little in the way of ornamentation. Behind the mosque pilgrims chant and present rose-petal offerings at Sunan Ampel’s grave.
reviewed
-
Sacred Tomb
This quiet old town Kota Gede, which is now a suburb of Yogyakarta, was the first capital of the Mataram kingdom, founded by Panembahan Senopati in 1582. Senopati is buried in the small mossy graveyard of an old mosque located to the south of the town’s central market. You can visit the sacred tomb, but be sure to wear conservative dress when visiting. On days when the tomb is closed there is not much to see here.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
E
Jin de Yuan
At the western end of the Petak Sembilan street market is the large Chinese Buddhist temple compound of Jin de Yuan, which dates from 1755 and is one of the most important in the city. The main structure has an unusual roof crowned by two dragons eating pearls, while the interior is richly atmospheric: dense incense and candle smoke cloud the Buddha statues, ancient bells and drums. There’s some wonderful calligraphy too.
reviewed
-
Danar Hadi
This is a small museum big on batik, with a terrific collection of antique and royal textiles from Java, China and beyond. It occupies a stunning whitewashed colonial building. Entry includes a guided tour in English, which explains the history of the many pieces (10,000 in the collection), though no photos are allowed. There’s a workshop where you can watch craftswomen at work creating new masterpieces. There’s an upmarket storeroom and souvenir shop too.
reviewed
-
F
Sono-Budoyo Museum
Across the main square in front of the kraton, Sono-Budoyo Museum is the pick of Yogya’s museums, even if it is dusty and dimly lit. It has a first-class collection of Javanese art, including wayang kulit puppets, topeng (masks), kris and batik. It also has a courtyard packed with Hindu statuary and artefacts from further afield, including superb Balinese carvings. Wayang kulit performances are held here.
reviewed
-
Monas
Ingloriously dubbed ‘Sukarno’s final erection’, this 132m-high national monument, towering over Merdeka Sq, is both Jakarta’s principal landmark and the most famous architectural extravagance of the former president. Begun in 1961, this typically masculine column was not completed until 1975, when it was officially opened by Suharto. The monument is constructed from Italian marble, and is topped with a sculpted flame, gilded with 35kg of gold leaf.
reviewed
-
Radya Pustaka Museum
The small Radya Pustaka Museum, next to the tourist office, has good displays of gamelan instruments, jewelled kris, wayang puppets from Thailand and Indonesia, a small collection of wayang beber (scrolls that depict wayang stories) and Raja Mala, a hairy puppet figurehead from a royal barge. Offerings must be made regularly to Raja Mala; otherwise, it is said, it will exude a pungent odour. The museum often closes earlier than the official closing time listed here.
reviewed
-
Candi Sukuh
In a magnificent position on the slopes of Gunung Lawu, 900m above the Solo plain, Candi Sukuh is one of Java’s most enigmatic and striking temples. It’s not a large site, but it has a large, truncated pyramid of rough-hewn stone, and there are some fascinating reliefs and statues. It’s clear that a fertility cult was practised here: several sniggeringly explicit carvings have led it to be dubbed the ‘erotic’ temple. It’s a quiet, isolated place with a strange, potent atmosphere.
reviewed
-
Tembi
Down in the deep south of the city, Tembi is a Javanese cultural centre in a lovely position surrounded by rice paddies. The fine old wooden houses here contain an outstanding collection of kris, a few wayang puppets, batik and basketry and some historic photographs of Yogya. There’s a highly recommended restaurant and accommodation too. To get to Tembi, jump aboard any bus bound for Parangtritis beach from Jl Parangtritis and get off at kilometre 8.4 on the highway; Tembi is 400m east of here along a side road.
reviewed
-
Affandi Museum
One of Indonesia’s most celebrated artists, Affandi lived and worked in a wonderfully quirky riverside house-cum-studio, about 6km east of the town centre. Today his former home is the Affandi Museum, which has an extensive collection of his paintings, including some astonishing self-portraits. Affandi’s work is displayed in two large Gaudiesque buildings that he designed himself and also contain a few personal items, including a boy racer’s dream: a lime-green-and-yellow customized 1967 Galant car with an oversized rear spoiler.
reviewed
-
Candi Sumberawan
This small, squat Buddhist stupa lies in the foothills of Gunung Arjuna, about 5km northwest of Singosari. Originating from a later period than the Singosari temples, it was built to commemorate the visit of Hayam Wuruk, the great Majapahit king, who visited the area in 1359. Take an angkot (2500Rp) from Singosari pasar on the highway to Desa Sumberawan, and then walk 500m down the road to the canal, turn right and follow the canal through picturesque rice paddies for 1km to the temple. This delightful walk is the highlight of the visit.
reviewed
-
Istana Mangkunegaran
Dating back to 1757, the Istana Mangkunegaran is in good condition and is rewarding to visit. Technically a puri (palace) rather than a kraton (a kraton is occupied by the first ruling house), this is the home of the second house of Solo. It was founded after a bitter struggle against Pakubuwono II launched by his nephew Raden Mas Said (an ancestor of Madam Tien Suharto, the late wife of the former president). Also offers decent guided tours (in English). Members of the aristocratic family still live at the back of the palace.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Taman Nasional Pangandaran
The Taman Nasional Pangandaran, which takes up the entire southern end of Pangandaran, is a wild expanse of dense jungle. Within its boundaries live porcupines, kijang (barking deer), hornbills, scorpions and monkeys (including Javan gibbons). Small bays within the park enclose pretty tree-fringed beaches. Occasionally, the park is even used as a temporary home for elephants being transported around the archipelago. The park is divided into two sections: the recreation park and the jungle. Due to environmental degradation, the jungle is usually off limits.
reviewed
-
G
Gereja Sion
Near the Kota train station, the Gereja Sion dates from 1695 and is the oldest remaining church in Jakarta. Also known as Gereja Portugis (Portuguese Church), it was built just outside the old city walls for the so-called 'black Portuguese' - the Eurasians and natives captured from Portuguese trading ports in India and Malaya and brought to Batavia as slaves.
The exterior of the church is very plain, but inside there are copper chandeliers, a baroque pulpit and the original organ. Although more than 2000 people were buried in the graveyard during 1790 alone, very few tombs remain.
reviewed
-
Kebun Raya Purwodadi
A few kilometres north of Lawang on the road to Surabaya, the Kebun Raya Purwodadi are expansive dry-climate botanical gardens. The 85 hectares are beautifully landscaped and contain over 3000 species, including 80 kinds of palm, a huge fern collection, a Mexican section, myriad orchids and many varieties of bamboo. The garden office to the south of the entrance has a map and leaflets. Air Terjun Cobanbaung is a high waterfall next to the gardens. The gardens are easily reached; take any bus (5000Rp) from Malang to Surabaya and ask to be dropped off at the entrance.
reviewed
-
Taman Hutan Raya Ir H Juanda
On the main road, 100m past the teahouse turn-off, a path leads down to Curug Dago (Dago Waterfall). From here you can walk along the river to Taman Hutan Raya Ir H Juanda, which is a pleasant forest park with another waterfall, 'caves' and walking paths. By road, the park entrance is 2km past the Dago bemo terminal.
Gua Pakar is in fact an ammunition store hacked out by the Japanese during the war. Further north is Gua Belanda, which is the same deal but built by the Dutch. A tunnel leads right through the mountain to the start of the trail that leads all the way to Maribay along Sungai Cikapundung.
reviewed
-
Arjuna Complex
The five main temples that form the Arjuna Complex are clustered together on the central plain. They are Shiva temples, but like the other Dieng temples they have been named after the heroes of the wayang stories of the Mahabharata epic: Arjuna, Puntadewa, Srikandi, Sembadra and Semar. All have mouth-shaped doorways and strange bell-shaped windows and some locals leave offerings, burn incense and meditate here. Raised walkways link the temples (as most of this land is waterlogged), but you can see the remains of ancient underground tunnels, which once drained the marshy flatlands.
reviewed