Things to do in Darjeeling
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Happy Valley Tea Estate
Happy Valley Tea Estate, below Hill Cart Rd, is worth visiting when the plucking and processing are in progress. March to May is the busiest time, but occasional plucking also occurs from June to November. Outside of high season there’s no plucking on Sunday, which means most of the machinery isn’t working on Monday. An employee will whisk you through the aromatic factory and its various processes before politely demanding a tip – Rs20 from each visitor is appropriate. Take the turn off 500m northwest of the Office of the District Magistrate, or take Lochnager Rd from Chowk Bazaar.
reviewed
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Glenary’s
This elegant restaurant atop the famous bakery and cafe receives mainly rave reviews: of note are the continental sizzlers, Chinese dishes, tandoori specials and the highly recommended veg gratin (especially if you’re off spicy food). We’ve heard a few grumbles that it’s coasting on its reputation, but most people love it.
reviewed
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Oxford Book & Stationery Company
The best bookshop in Darjeeling, selling a vast selection of books and maps on Tibet, Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan and the Himalaya. They will mail worldwide.
reviewed
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Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks
Helpful and knowledgeable agency offering good-value rafting and trekking trips. Recommended.
reviewed
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Bhutia Busty Gompa
Together, Darjeeling and Ghoom are home to a number of fascinating Buddhist monasteries. Probably the most scenic is Bhutia Busty Gompa, with Khangchendzonga providing a spectacular backdrop. The shrine originally stood on Observatory Hill, but was rebuilt in its present location by the chogyals of Sikkim in the 19th century. The gompa houses a fine gold-accented mural and the original copy of the Tibetan Book of the Dead, but permission is required to see it.
To get here, follow CR Das Rd downhill for 400m from Chowrasta, and take the right fork where the road branches.
reviewed
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Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, known affectionately as the Toy Train, made its first journey along its precipice-topping, 2ft-wide tracks in September 1881 and is one of the few hill railways still operating in India. It's even listed as a World Heritage site. Besides its regular diesel service to/from New Jalpaiguri and steam service to/from Kurseong, there are joy rides during high season that leave Darjeeling at 10:00 and 12:50 for a two-hour steam-powered return trip to Ghoom.
reviewed
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Sonam’s Kitchen
Providing an island of real brewed coffee in a sea of tea, Sonam and her Nepali family serve up lovely breakfasts, pancakes, soups and pasta; the deliciously chunky wholemeal sandwiches can be packed to go for picnics. Mains need to be pre-ordered at least an hour and a half early, so someone can dash up the street to the nearby fruit and veg stalls to get just what you want. If you miss your mama’s cooking, Sonam offers the next best thing.
reviewed
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Refugee Centre
Established in 1959, this refugee centre comprises a home for the aged, school, orphanage, clinic, gompa and craft workshops that produce carpets, woodcarvings, leatherwork and woollen items. There’s also an interesting, politically charged photographic exhibition (you might have to ask for the hall to be opened) portraying the establishment and workings of the centre.
reviewed
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Japanese Peace Pagoda
Perched on a hillside at the end of AJC Bose Rd is the gleaming white Japanese Peace Pagoda, one of more than 70 pagodas built by the Japanese Buddhist Nipponzan Myohoji organisation around the world. Drumming resonates through the forested grounds during their daily pujas (prayers). It’s about a 35-minute walk from Clubside along Gandhi and AJC Bose Rds.
reviewed
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Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
Tucked away within the grounds of the zoological park, this prestigious mountaineering institute was founded in 1954 and has provided training for some of India’s leading mountaineers. Within the complex is the fascinating Everest Museum, which traces the history of attempts on the world’s highest peak.
reviewed
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Yiga Choling Gompa
Yiga Choling Gompa, the region’s most famous monastery, has wonderful old murals and is home to monks of the yellow-hat sect. Built in 1850, it enshrines a 5m-high statue of the Maitreya Buddha (Future Buddha) and 300 beautifully bound Tibetan texts. It’s just west of Ghoom, about a 10-minute walk off Hill Cart Rd.
reviewed
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Samten Choling Gompa
The Samten Choling Gompa has the protector Garuda atop the ornate backdrop to the Buddha; it has a festive air, with tour groups and souvenir stalls. This gompa is on Hill Cart Rd and can be reached by share jeep from Darjeeling (Rs12); some people organise to visit on the way back from Tiger Hill.
reviewed
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Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre
Established in 1959, the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre comprises a home for the aged, school, orphanage, clinic, gompa and craft workshops that produce carpets, woodcarvings, leatherwork and woollen items. There's also an interesting photographic exhibition portraying the establishment and workings of the centre.
reviewed
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Lloyd Botanical Gardens
These pleasant gardens contain an impressive collection of Himalayan plants, most famously orchids and rhododendrons, as well as temperate trees from around the world. Follow the signs along Lochnager Rd from the Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station. A map and guide is available from the park office.
reviewed
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Darjeeling Retreat
3 days (Darjeeling)
Escape to the hill station of Darjeeling, surrounded by the Himalayan foothills.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$460 -
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Bengal Natural History Museum
The Bengal Natural History Museum, established in 1903, houses a mildewed and moth-eaten collection of Himalayan and Bengali species. Hidden away in a compound just off Bishop Eric Benjamin Rd, it’s well signed, and remarkably popular. The enormous leeches in jars will provoke a shudder.
reviewed
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Park Restaurant
The Park is very popular with local tourists and fills up quickly. It has tasty North Indian curries or there’s a good range of mainly fish and chicken Thai dishes from the Lemon Grass menu. The new bar has been a real hit, with snacks, cocktails (Rs90 to Rs100) and impressive mocktails (Rs25 to Rs80).
reviewed
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Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park
This zoo, one of India’s best, was established in 1958 to study, conserve and preserve Himalayan fauna. Housed within the rocky and forested environment is India’s only collection of Siberian tigers, as well as Himalayan black bears, red pandas, snow leopards and Tibetan wolves.
reviewed
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Joey’s Pub
This classic pub, near the post office, is a great place to meet other travellers. It has sports on TV, warm rum and cold beer, and was expanding its premises at the time of research. Generally very friendly, though lone women have experienced some not entirely good-natured teasing from staff.
reviewed
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Big Bite
We don’t know who copied whom, but Darjeeling has a few good ‘pure veg’ places that offer South Indian classics such as dosa (lentil-flour pancake) and idli (rice cake), alongside vegie burgers, pizza and other fast food. You’ll know this one by the hot-pink entrance.
reviewed
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Tiger Hill
To set your eyes on a spectacular 250km stretch of Himalayan horizon, including Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8501m), Makalu (8475m), Khangchendzonga, Kabru (6691m) and Janu (7710m), rise early and get to Tiger Hill, 11km south of Darjeeling, above Ghoom.
reviewed
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Kunga Restaurant
Kunga's Tibetan cuisine is tasteful simplicity. Its steamed momos are legendary as are its noodle soups (gyathuk, thenthuk and bhagthuk). For a filling breakfast, try its muesli and fruit curd.
reviewed
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Hot Pizza Place
A one-table pizza joint with excellent pizza, pasta, panini, salads and sandwiches. Come here also for breakfast, pancakes and good coffee, as well as that hard-to-find bacon fix. Service is friendly but slow.
reviewed
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Danfay Munal
A classic Darjeeling restaurant – simple set-up, great views, a range of cheap and tasty Indian, Chinese and Tibetan food (great momos ), and it’s right in the centre. They do takeaway picnic packs.
reviewed
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Manjushree Centre of Tibetan Culture
Beginner and advanced lessons in written and spoken Tibetan are offered at the Manjushree Centre of Tibetan Culture. It also supplies discounted guest-house accommodation for students.
reviewed
