Sights in Uttarakhand (Uttaranchal)
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Neelkantha Mahadev Temple
Follow the dedicated pilgrims who take water from the Ganges to offer at Neelkantha Mahadev Temple, a 7km, three-hour walk along a forest path from Swarg Ashram. Neelkanth (Blue Throat) is another name for Shiva, who once drank poison churned up from the sea by gods and demons, which turned his throat blue. A much longer road (17km) via Lakshman Jhula also goes to the temple. A jeep taxi costs a small price to return.
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Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram
Just south of Swarg Ashram, slowly being consumed by the forest undergrowth, is what's left of the original Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram. It was abandoned in 1997 and is now back under the control of the forest department, but the shells of many buildings, meditation cells and lecture halls can still be seen, including Maharishi's own house and the guesthouse where the Beatles stayed.
Indeed, in February 1968 Rishikesh hit world headlines when the four Beatles and their partners stayed, following an interest and earlier visit by George Harrison. Ringo and his wife didn't like the vegetarian food, missed their children and left after a couple of weeks, but the others staye…
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Har-ki-Pairi Ghat
Har-ki-Pairi Ghat (The Footstep of God) is where Vishnu is said to have dropped some heavenly nectar and left a footprint behind. As such it is very sacred to Hindus and the place to wash away your sins. Pilgrims bathe here in its often fast currents and donate money to the priests and shrines.
The ghat sits on the western bank of the Ganges canal and every evening hundreds of worshippers gather for the ganga aarti (river worship ceremony). Officials in blue uniform collect donations (and give out receipts) and as the sun sets, bells ring out a rhythm, torches are lit, and leaf baskets with flower petals inside and a candle on top (Rs 5) are lit and put on the river to dr…
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Forest Research Institute Museum
The prime attraction of this museum is the building itself. Set in a 500-hectare park, the institute – where most of India’s forest officers are trained – is larger than Buckingham Palace and is one of the Raj’s grandest buildings. Built between 1924 and 1929, designed by CG Blomfield, this red-brick colossus has Mughal towers, perfectly formed arches and Roman columns in a series of quadrangles edged by elegant cloisters. Six huge halls have rather old-fashioned and dry displays on every aspect of forestry in India. Highlights include beautiful animal, bird and plant paintings by Afshan Zaidi, exhibits on the medicinal uses of trees, and a cross- section of a 700-year-ol…
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Snow View
The cable car runs up to the popular Snow View at 2270m, which on clear days has panoramic Himalayan views, including Nanda Devi. At the top you'll find the usual food, souvenir and carnival stalls, as well as Mountain Magic, an amusement park with rides that kids will love. There's also a hotel with restaurant and bar. You can hike to Cheena/Naina Peak, 4km away.
A walk up to or back from Snow View can take in the tiny Gadhan Kunkyop Ling Gompa (monastery) of the Gelukpa order (of which the Dalai Lama is the spiritual leader). Take the road uphill from the Hotel City Heart and a path branches off to the gompa (the colourful prayer flags should be visible).
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Naini Lake
This pretty lake is Nainital's centrepiece and is said to be one of the emerald green eyes of Shiva's wife, Sati (naina is Sanskrit for eye). Naina Devi Temple, rebuilt after the 1880 landslide, is on the precise spot where the eye is believed to have fallen. Nearby is the Jama Masjid and a gurdwara.
For holidaying families, a boat ride around the lake is de rigeur. Boatmen will row you round the lake for Rs 120 (Rs 50 one way) in the brightly painted gondola-like boats, or the Nainital Boat Club (Mallital) will sail you round for Rs 120 between 10:00 and 16:00. Pedal and rowing boats can also be hired for Rs 50 to 80 per hour.
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Ram Rai Darbar
This unique mausoleum is made of white marble, and the four smaller tombs in the garden courtyard are those of Ram Rai’s four wives. The entrance gate is adorned with colourful murals. Ram Rai, the errant son of the seventh Sikh guru, Har Rai, was excommunicated by his father. He formed his own Udasi sect, which still runs schools and hospitals. When Ram Rai died in 1687, one of his supporters, Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, ordered the building of the mausoleum. As in other gurdwaras (Sikh temples), a free communal lunch of dhal, rice and chapatis is offered to anyone who wants it, although a donation is appreciated.
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Mindrolling Monastery
The region around Dehra Dun is home to a thriving Tibetan Buddhist community, mainly focused on the Mindrolling Monastery, about 10km south of the centre in Clement Town. Everything about the monastery is on a grand scale: it boasts a large college, manicured gardens and the five-storey Great Stupa. At over 60m tall, it’s believed to be the world’s tallest stupa and contains a series of shrine rooms displaying relics, murals and Tibetan art. Presiding over the monastery is the impressive 35m-high gold Buddha Statue, dedicated to the Dalai Lama.
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Corbett Tiger Reserve
This famous reserve was established in 1936 as India’s first national park. Originally called Hailey National Park, then Ramganga National Park, it was renamed in 1957 after legendary tiger hunter Jim Corbett (1875–1955), who put Kumaon on the map with his book The Man-Eaters of Kumaon. The British hunter was greatly revered by local people for shooting tigers that had developed a taste for human flesh, but he eventually shot more wildlife with his camera than with his gun.
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Tapkeshwar Temple
In a scenic setting on the banks of the Tons Nadi River, is an unusual and popular Shiva shrine inside a small, dripping cave. The shrine is the site of the popular annual Shivaratri festival. Turn left at the bottom of the steps for the main shrine, and cross the bridge over the river to visit another cave shrine. Squeeze through a narrow cave to see an image of Mata Vaishno Devi. The temple is about 5km north of the centre.
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Rajaji National Park
This unspoilt park, covering 820 sq km in the forested foothills near Haridwar, is best known for its wild elephants, numbering around 450 to 500 at last count. Within the Rajaji National Park there are nine historical but basicforest rest houses at Asarohi, Beribara, Chilla, Kansrao, Kunnao, Motichur, Phandowala, Ranipur and Satyanarayan. To book a forest rest house, contact the director (0135-2621669) at the Rajaji National Park Office.
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Swarg Ashram
A pleasant 2km walk south of Lakshman Jhula along the path skirting the east bank of the Ganges leads to the spiritual community of Swarg Ashram, made up of temples, ashrams, shops and the bathing ghats where religious ceremonies are performed at sunrise and sunset. The colourful ganga aarti ceremony is held at the riverside temple of the Parmarth Niketan Ashram, with singing, chanting, musicians and the lighting of candles.
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Mansa Devi Temple
Take the cable car to the crowded hilltop temple of Mansa Devi, a wish-fulfilling goddess. The path to the cable car is lined with stalls selling packages of prasad (food offering used in religious ceremonies) to take up to the goddess on the hill. You can walk up (1.5km) but beware of prasad-stealing monkeys. Photography is forbidden in the temple.
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Raj Bhavan
About 4km south of Tallital, Raj Bhavan is the official residence of the Governor of Uttarakhand. Styled on Buckingham Palace, it’s an impressive castlelike building set in extensive grounds. Tours of the grounds are available but the residence is only open when the governor is out. In the grounds is a lovely 18-hole golf course. Club hire and caddies are available.
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Valley of Flowers National Park
To reach the 87-sq-km Valley of Flowers National Park requires a full-day trek from Govindghat to the village of Ghangaria, less than 1km from the park. Just 2km from the ticket office, the fabled valley begins and continues for another 5km. Tracks are easy to follow. No overnight stay is permitted here (or at Hem Kund) so you must stay in Ghangaria.
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Panchachuli Weavers Factory
The Panchachuli Weavers Factory, off Bageshwar Rd, employs some 300 women to weave woollen shawls. The shop here has a wider range of products than at the small shop in the Mall. Taxis charge Rs120 return to the factory, or you can walk the 3km – follow the continuation of Mall Rd to the northeast and ask for directions.
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Museum
About 1km uphill from the bus stand, Anasakti Ashram is where Mahatma Gandhi spent two weeks pondering and writing Anasakti Yoga in 1929. It has a small museum that tells the story of Gandhi’s life through photographs and words. Visit at 6pm to attend nightly prayers in his memory.
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Govind Wildlife Sanctuary & National Park
The wonderfully remote Har ki Dun (3510m) is a botanical paradise criss-crossed by glacial streams and surrounded by pristine forests and snowy peaks. The area is preserved as Govind Wildlife Sanctuary & National Park. You might be lucky enough to glimpse the elusive snow leopard above 3500m.
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Chandi Devi Temple
Chandi Devi Temple was built by Raja Suchet Singh of Kashmir in 1929.
Many visitors and pilgrims combine this with a cable car to the crowded hilltop temple of Mansa Devi, a wish-fulfilling goddess. Pay Rs 144 at Mansa Devi and you can ride on both cable cars and take an AC coach between the two temples.
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Kausani Tea Estate
At Kausani Tea Estate, a tea plantation that involves private enterprise, the government and local farmers, you can look around and sample and buy its products, which are exported around the world. It’s 3.5km north of this village on the road to Baijnath, an easy and scenic walk.
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Neer Garh Waterfall
An easy walk to two small waterfalls starts 3km north of Lakshman Jhula bridge on the south side of the river Ganges. On the other side of the river, it’s about 2km north to the signposted walk to lovely Neer Garh Waterfall.
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Jawahar Aquarium
Just up from the cable-car station, this aquarium is Mussoorie’s newest attraction. What may be Uttarakhand’s only escalator takes you to eight modest but well-presented tanks containing tropical fish, tiny sharks and red piranha.
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Kumaon Regimental Centre Museum
The Kumaon Regimental Centre Museum, located off the Mall, is stuffed full of photos and military memorabilia relating to the Kumaon regiment. These include weapons captured in various battles, and the coffin of General TN Raina.
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Nainital Zoo
This high-altitude hillside zoo has some large enclosures containing Himalayan animals, Siberian tigers, leopards and lots of pheasant species. It’s a steep 20-minute walk from the Mall or a Rs50 taxi ride.
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Tiffin Top
A 4km walk west of the lake brings you to Tiffin Top (2292m), also called Dorothy's Seat, from where it's a lovely 30-minute walk to Land's End (2118m) through a forest of oak, deodar and pine.
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