Things to do in Rishikesh
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Vina Maharaj Music School
In Lakshman Jhula, Vina Maharaj Music School offers sitar, tabla, harmonium and flute lessons at Rs200 per hour, and organises concerts.
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Neelkantha Mahadev Temple
Follow the dedicated pilgrims who take water from the Ganges to offer at Neelkantha Mahadev Temple, a 7km, three-hour walk along a forest path from Swarg Ashram. Neelkanth (Blue Throat) is another name for Shiva, who once drank poison churned up from the sea by gods and demons, which turned his throat blue. A much longer road (17km) via Lakshman Jhula also goes to the temple. A jeep taxi costs a small price to return.
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Yoga Study Centre
According to locals, this is one of Rishikesh’s most highly regarded yoga schools and runs two- and three-week Iyengar yoga courses for all levels (payment by donation). It’s a small ashram on the river south of the town, off Haridwar Rd.
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Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram
Just south of Swarg Ashram, slowly being consumed by the forest undergrowth, is what's left of the original Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram. It was abandoned in 1997 and is now back under the control of the forest department, but the shells of many buildings, meditation cells and lecture halls can still be seen, including Maharishi's own house and the guesthouse where the Beatles stayed.
Indeed, in February 1968 Rishikesh hit world headlines when the four Beatles and their partners stayed, following an interest and earlier visit by George Harrison. Ringo and his wife didn't like the vegetarian food, missed their children and left after a couple of weeks, but the others staye…
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Chotiwala
There are two open-fronted and fiercely competitive Chotiwalas side by side, both serving up thalis, South Indian food, ice creams and sweet lime sodas. There’s little to distinguish between them and they’re easy to spot by the rotund (but not very jolly) mascots with the pointy hairdo (a choti ) sitting out the front.
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Oasis Restaurant
At New Bhandari Swiss Cottage, this restaurant is more refined, with candlelit tables in the garden and hanging lanterns inside. The menu ransacks oodles of world cuisines from Mexican and Thai to Israeli and Tibetan, and features a number of chicken dishes including a delicious chilli chicken. Great desserts include apple crumble.
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Little Buddha Cafe
Funky treehouse-style restaurant with an ultraloungey top floor and good food.
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Swarg Ashram
A pleasant 2km walk south of Lakshman Jhula along the path skirting the east bank of the Ganges leads to the spiritual community of Swarg Ashram, made up of temples, ashrams, shops and the bathing ghats where religious ceremonies are performed at sunrise and sunset. The colourful ganga aarti ceremony is held at the riverside temple of the Parmarth Niketan Ashram, with singing, chanting, musicians and the lighting of candles.
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Omkarananda Ganga Sadan
On the river, at Muni-ki-Reti, this ashram has comfortable rooms and specialises in Iyengar yoga classes at the Patanjala Yoga Kendra centre. There are daily classes (except Sunday; Rs250) and intensive seven- to 10-day courses (Rs800) on offer from October to May. The ashram has its own ghat and evening ganga aarti.
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Midway Restaurant & Bar
If you've been pining for meat and alcohol, grab a vikram or autorickshaw to this place 11km south of Rishikesh on the road to Haridwar. In a resort-style garden with artificial pond (paddleboats and all) it serves up tandoori chicken, rogan josh and other nonveg favourites, washed down with a cold beer.
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Devraj Coffee Corner
Perched above the bridge and looking across the river to Shri Trayanbakshwar temple, this German bakery is a sublime spot for an early breakfast and is usually busy all day. Fresh brown bread with yak cheese, croissants and apple strudel sit comfortably alongside soups, pizzas, enchiladas and veg sizzlers.
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Sri Ved Niketan Ashram
Also called the International Vishwaguru Meditation and Yoga Institute, this place in Swarg Ashram has a large inner courtyard, a spacious meditation and yoga hall offering hatha, pranayama, meditation and philosophy classes, and spartan rooms with private bathrooms. Minimum three-day stay.
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Parmarth Niketan Ashram
Dominating the centre of Swarg Ashram and drawing visitors to its evening ganga aarti on the riverbank, Parmarth has a wonderfully ornate and serene garden courtyard. The price includes a room with a private bathroom, all meals and hatha yoga lessons.
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Maa Cozy
At Maa Cozy, Persian rugs and cushions on the floor go some way to giving this modern 1st-floor place an Arabian feel. The speciality is the sheesha pipes (from Rs130), with fruit-, mint- or cola-flavoured tobacco. Good coffee and smoothies.
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Neer Garh Waterfall
An easy walk to two small waterfalls starts 3km north of Lakshman Jhula bridge on the south side of the river Ganges. On the other side of the river, it’s about 2km north to the signposted walk to lovely Neer Garh Waterfall.
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Ganga Beach Restaurant
There’s no real beach at Ganga Beach Restaurant, but the riverside location, spacious terrace and cushioned chill-out area make this a relaxing spot. The big menu includes wood-fired pizzas and crepes, and the lassis are ice-cold.
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De-N-Ascent Expeditions
Specialist in kayaking lessons and expeditions. Paddle and eskimo roll with an experienced instructor from Rs1000 per day; kayaking expeditions cost from Rs2400 per day. Also organises rafting and trekking trips.
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Madras Cafe
This local institution dishes up tasty South and North Indian veg food, thalis, a mean mushroom curry, whole-wheat pancakes and the intriguing Himalayan health pilau, as well as super-thick lassis.
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Phool Chatti Ashram
This modern yoga retreat 5km upstream from Lakshman Jhula offers seven-day beginner and intermediate yoga courses in a very peaceful, rural environment. Includes accommodation and meals.
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Green Italian Restaurant
Wood-fired veg pizzas and imported pastas including gnocchi and cannelloni keep the customers coming back to this spotless, glass-fronted restaurant in the heart of Swarg.
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Om Rudra Cultural Society
Om Rudra Cultural Society is run by an enterprising couple and offers kathak (classical) dance, flute, tabla or Hindi lessons.
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Guru Brahmashram
Guru Brahmashram is a branch of the Bangalore-based Mukthigaagi Foundation and specialises in meditation courses and a variety of holistic therapies.
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Himalayan Language Institute
Himalayan Language Institute offers Hindi language classes for groups (Rs80 to Rs150 per hour) or individuals (Rs250 per hour).
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Garhwal Himalayan Explorations
Himalayan trekking and rafting trips. The company runs three river camps – Ganga Nature Camp, the Himalayan Retreat and Himalayan Heights.
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Little Italy
Swarg's original Italian restaurant also works hard to produce authentic Mediterranean dishes along with espresso coffee and tiramisu.
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