Other sights in Uttar Pradesh
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Palace Buildings
The first of the palace buildings is the largest, the Palace of Jodh Bai, and the one-time home of Akbar’s Hindu wife, said to be his favourite. Set around an enormous courtyard, it blends traditional Indian columns, Islamic cupolas and turquoise-blue Persian roof tiles.
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Akbar’s Fort & Patalpuri Temple
Built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, this 16th-century fort on the northern bank of the Yamuna has massive walls with three gateways flanked by towers. Most of it is occupied by the Indian army and cannot be visited, but a small door in the eastern wall near Sangam leads to one part you can enter, the underground Patalpuri temple. This unique temple is crowded with all sorts of idols – pick up some coins from the change dealers outside so you can leave small offerings as you go. You may be pressured into giving Rs100 at some shrines. A few coins are perfectly acceptable.
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Mehtab Bagh
This park, originally built by Emperor Babur as the last in a series of 11 parks on the Yamuna’s east bank, long before the Taj was conceived, fell into disrepair until it was little more than a huge mound of sand. To protect the Taj from the erosive effects of the sand blown across the river, the park was reconstructed in recent years and is now one the best places from which to view the great mausoleum. The gardens in the Taj are perfectly aligned with the ones here, and the view of the Taj from the fountain directly in front of the entrance gate is a special one.
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Samadhi Swamiji Maharaj Bagh
Known simply as Swami Bagh, this huge white marble mausoleum, which houses the tomb of Sri Shiv Dayal Singh Seth, the founder of the Radhasoami Faith, is of particular interest because it is still being built – more than 80 years after it was started. Inside there’s a 1904 painting of what it should look like when finished, complete with a gold- latticed dome. For now it’s a work-in-progress project being undertaken by devotees. The design incorporates building styles from other major religions and includes some fabulously delicate floral carvings.
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La Martinière School
This prestigious boarding school – where timeless British pop legend Sir Cliff Richard once studied – was designed and built by the Frenchman Major General Claude Martin as a palatial home. In 1800 it became his tomb – he is buried in the basement at the bottom of a blue-washed spiral staircase. The eccentric facade is part Roman archways, part Gothic horror movie, and part Disneyland-style castle with a jumble of turrets and gargoyles piled merrily atop a long line of Corinthian columns.
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Ram Janam Bhumi
Ram Janam Bhumi is the contentious temple that marks the birthplace of Rama. Security here is staggering. You must first show your passport then leave all belongings apart from your passport and money in nearby lockers. You are then searched several times before being accompanied through a caged corridor that leads to a spot 20m away from a makeshift tent of a shrine, which marks Rama’s birthplace.
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Mulgandha Kuti Vihar
This modern temple was completed in 1931 by the Mahabodhi Society. Buddha’s first sermon is chanted daily, starting between 6pm and 7pm depending on the season. A bodhi tree growing outside was transplanted in 1931 from the tree in Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, which in turn is said to be the offspring of the original tree in Bodhgaya under which Buddha attained enlightenment.
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Khusru Bagh
This intriguing park, surrounded by a high wall, contains three contrasting Mughal tombs. One is that of Prince Khusru, the eldest son of Emperor Jehangir, who tried to assassinate his father but was blinded and imprisoned, finally dying in 1622. If Khusru’s coup had succeeded, his brother, Shah Jahan, would not have become emperor and the Taj Mahal would not exist.
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Chini-Ka-Rauza
This Persian-style riverside tomb of Afzal Khan, a poet who served as Shah Jahan’s chief minister, was built between 1628 and 1639. Rarely visited, it is hidden away down a shady avenue of trees on the east bank of the Yamuna. Bright blue tiles, which once covered the whole mausoleum, can still be seen on part of the exterior, while the interior is painted in floral designs.
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International Society for Krishna Consciousness
The International Society for Krishna Consciousness, also known as the Hare Krishnas, is based at the Krishna Balaram temple complex, accessed through a beautiful white-marble gate, which houses the tomb of Swami Prabhupada (1896–1977), the founder of the Hare Krishna organisation. Several hundred foreigners attend courses and seminars here annually.
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Archaeological Museum
This fully modernised, 100-year-old sandstone museum houses wonderfully displayed ancient treasures such as the very well preserved 3rd- century BC lion capital from the Ashoka pillar, which has been adopted as India’s national emblem, and a huge, 2000-year-old stone umbrella, ornately carved with Buddhist symbols.
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Ramkatha Museum
Ramkatha Museum is a large yellow-and-red building with ancient sculptures and grand images of Rama and Sita. Every evening except Monday the museum hosts free performances of the Ram Lila (a dramatic re-enactment of the battle between Lord Ram and Ravan, as described in the Hindu epic, the Ramayana).
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Hanumangarhi
At Ayodhya, you can start your temple tour at the town’s most popular one, Hanumangarhi, set back off the main street. Walk up the 76 steps to the ornate carved gateway and the fortresslike outer walls, and join the throng inside offering prasad (food offerings).
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Dhamekh Stupa & Monastery Ruins
Set in a peaceful park of monastery ruins is the impressive 34m Dhamekh Stupa, which marks the spot where the Buddha preached his first sermon. The floral and geometric carvings are 5th century AD, but some of the brickwork dates back as far as 200 BC.
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Bara Imambara
This colossal tomb is worth seeing in its own right, but the highly unusual labyrinth of corridors inside its upper floors make a visit to this imambara particularly special. The ticket price includes entrance to Chota Imambara, the clock tower and the baradari.
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Hussainabad (Chota) Imambara
Just 500m up the road from the Bara Imambara is another tomb that was constructed by Mohammed Ali Shah in 1832, who is buried here, alongside his mother. Smaller than the Bara Imambara but adorned with calligraphy, it has a more serene and intimate atmosphere.
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Chaukhandi Stupa
This large ruined stupa dates back to the 5th century AD, and marks the spot where Buddha met his first disciples. The incongruous tower on top of the stupa is Mughal and was constructed here in the 16th century to commemorate the visit of Emperor Humayun.
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Buddha Museum
Next door to the Tibetan Temple is the Buddha Museum, which exhibits Buddhist relics, sculptures and terracottas unearthed from the Kushinagar region, as well as some Tibetan thangkas (rectangular painting on cloth) and Mughal miniature paintings.
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Wat Thai Complex
The impressive Wat Thai complex features an elaborate temple, beautifully maintained gardens with bonsai-style trees, a monastery and a temple containing a gilded Buddha. There’s also a Sunday school and health clinic, each of which welcomes visitors.
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Museum
On the western side of the Taj gardens is a very small museum, housing original architectural drawings of the Taj and some nifty celadon plates, said to split into pieces or change colour if the food served on them contains poison.
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Pagal Baba Temple
The 10-storey Pagal Baba Temple, a fairy-tale-castle lookalike, has an amusing succession of animated puppets and dioramas behind glass cases on the ground floor, which depict scenes from the lives of Rama and Krishna.
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Cave Passageway
To the right of the glittery Krishna Temple, at the town’s entrance, is a fake cave passageway where you walk past a long line of slightly moving tableaux depicting scenes from Krishna’s life.
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Archaeological Museum
The rooms that aren’t empty in this large museum house superb collections of religious sculptures by the Mathura school, which flourished from the 3rd century BC to the 12th century AD.
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Kesava Deo Temple
Among the foundations of the mural-filled Kesava Deo Temple, in the Sri Krishna Janmbhoomi, is a small, bare room with a slab of rock on which Krishna is said to have been born, some 3500 years ago.
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Bahu Begum Ka Maquabara
In Faizabad, the Bahu Begum ka Maquabara is the Begum’s unique mausoleum. It has three domes built above each other with wonderfully ornate decoration on the walls and ceilings.
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