Things to do in Lucknow
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Residency
The large collection of gardens and ruins that makes up the Residency offers a fascinating historical glimpse of the beginning of the end for the British Raj. Built in 1800, the Residency became the stage for the most dramatic events of the 1857 First War of Independence, the Siege of Lucknow, a 147-day siege that claimed the lives of thousands. The compound has been left as it was at the time of the final relief and the walls are still pockmarked from bullets and cannon balls. The well-designed museum in the main Residency building includes a scale model of the original buildings. Downstairs are the huge basement rooms where many of the British women and children lived t…
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Tunday Kabab
Tucked away down a small street in the bustling Aminabad district, this renowned local kebab shop serves up delicious plates of mutton biryani, kebabs and tandoori chicken. The mutton kebab here is fantastic. Consider coming along early to give yourself time for a wander around the bazaar here, a prime location for picking up chikan (delicately embroidered muslin cloth). Rickshaw drivers know how to find this place. There’s a more centrally located branch in Sapru Marg with the same menu at slightly higher prices, but it’s nowhere near as popular.
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Satkhanda
This decaying watchtower looks like a medieval painting of the Tower of Babel. Known as Satkhanda, it actually has only four storeys because construction was abandoned in 1840 when Mohammed Ali Shah died.
The 67m red-brick clock tower, reputedly the tallest in India, was built in the 1880s in memory of Sir George Couper, a reform-minded Governor of UP (United Provinces in those days).
Nearby is a baradari (summer palace), which overlooks an artificial lake and houses large portraits and photos of the nawabs of Avadh.
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Mohammed Ali Shah Tomb
Just 500m up the road from the Bara Imambara is another tomb that was built by Mohammed Ali Shah in 1832. His tomb is here alongside his mother. Smaller than the Bara Imambara but adorned with calligraphy, it has a much more serene and intimate atmosphere.
In the garden is a tank and two replicas of the Taj Mahal that are the tombs of Mohammed Ali Shah's daughter and her husband. A traditional hammam can be seen as well as Mohammed's silver throne and red crown, countless chandeliers and some tazias.
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La Martinière School
This prestigious boarding school – where timeless British pop legend Sir Cliff Richard once studied – was designed and built by the Frenchman Major General Claude Martin as a palatial home. In 1800 it became his tomb – he is buried in the basement at the bottom of a blue-washed spiral staircase. The eccentric facade is part Roman archways, part Gothic horror movie, and part Disneyland-style castle with a jumble of turrets and gargoyles piled merrily atop a long line of Corinthian columns.
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Sikandar Bagh
This walled garden was created by Wajid Ali Shah, the last nawab, for his favourite queen, Sikandar Mahal. The splendid gateway, the tiny mosque and part of the wall are original. Hundreds died here in a pitched battle between Indian 'mutineers' and a British and Indian relief force during the Siege of Lucknow. The main gate is locked, but the small side gate is usually open.
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Janpath Market
Lucknow is famous for the delicately embroidered muslin cloth known as chikan, which is worn by men and women. It is sold in the small but relatively traffic-free Janpath Market. Also in this market is the sweet-smelling Sugandhco, a century-old family business that sells attar - pure essence oil extracted from flowers by a traditional method.
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Rumi Darwaza
Like the Bara Imambara, the Rumi Darwaza was built in the 1780s by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula. It's unusual but imposing, and said to be a copy of an entrance gate in Istanbul. 'Rumi' (relating to Rome) is the term Muslims applied to Istanbul when it was still Byzantium, the capital of the Eastern Roman empire.
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Bara Imambara
This colossal tomb is worth seeing in its own right, but the highly unusual labyrinth of corridors inside its upper floors make a visit to this imambara particularly special. The ticket price includes entrance to Chota Imambara, the clock tower and the baradari.
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Muman’s Royal Cafe
Even if you don’t step inside this popular family restaurant, don’t miss its excellent chaat (spicy snack) stand at the front where mixed chaat s are served in an aloo (potato) basket. Inside you can dine on chicken Mughlai, tandoor kebabs and pizza.
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Hussainabad (Chota) Imambara
Just 500m up the road from the Bara Imambara is another tomb that was constructed by Mohammed Ali Shah in 1832, who is buried here, alongside his mother. Smaller than the Bara Imambara but adorned with calligraphy, it has a more serene and intimate atmosphere.
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Brindavan
Don’t be put off by the filthy shared stairwell: this 1st-floor place is smart and clean and has a huge window along the far wall allowing you to eat overlooking the street scenes below. The excellent-value south Indian menu includes more than 20 varieties of dosa.
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Shanghai Surprise
This smart subterranean restaurant specialises in Thai, Chinese and an attempt at Japanese cuisine -everything from tom yum and nasi goreng to lemon chicken. Prawn and duck also feature on the menu and while the flavours aren't straight from the Orient, the food is tasty.
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Rabindralaya Auditorium
Opposite the two train stations, this auditorium hosts a variety of cultural shows, including classical music, dance and theatrical performances, all free of charge. It’s often used by schools, however, so is not always open to the public. Call ahead.
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Moti Mahal Restaurant
Downstairs is a sweet and snack shop, upstairs is a low-lit AC restaurant serving up tasty, well-presented food. Try the Lucknow dum aloo (potatoes stuffed with nuts and paneer in a tomato-based sauce) followed by kulfi faluda.
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State Museum
Enter through the zoo. Lucknow’s fine State Museum houses sculptural masterpieces dating back to the 3rd century AD, including intricately carved Mathura sculptures ranging from dancing girls to scenes from the life of Buddha.
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Falaknuma
Lucknow’s best hotel also lays claim to having its best restaurant. The stylish rooftop dining room has bird’s-eye views and serves up sumptuous nawab cuisine, such as kakori (minced mutton) and galawat (minced goat) kebabs.
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Zoo
The large, shady zoo is somewhat depressing, with animals pacing up and down in their small enclosures, but you must enter it if you want to visit Lucknow’s fine State Museum.
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Ram Advani Bookshop
A Lucknow institution, it’s worth visiting just to meet the knowledgable Mr Advani, who owns the place. Be aware, though, that he takes his siestas very seriously and is rarely seen between noon and 4pm.
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Nawab's
Portraits of the nawabs look down from the walls as you sample the traditional food that the talented chefs here have perfected, including kebabs, biryanis and slow-cooked regional specialities.
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Sugandhco
In Janpath Market is the sweet-scented Sugandhco, a family business since 1850 that sells attar – pure essence oil extracted from flowers by a traditional method.
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Sahara Ganj
Sahara Ganj is a glitzy new shopping mall - the third biggest in India - with a food court and fast-food chains such as McDonalds and Pizza Hut. It's popular with Lucknow's youth.
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Strokes Sports Bar
With metallic decor, zebra-print chairs, ultraviolet lights and a backlit bar, this must be one of the strangest places in India to come to watch the latest cricket match on TV.
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Shah Najaf Imambara
The impressive Shah Najaf Imambara is the tomb of Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haidar, who died in 1827, and three of his wives, including one known as Mubarak Mahal who was a European.
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Baradari
Near the clock tower is a baradari, a striking red-brick building, built in 1842, which overlooks an artificial lake and houses portraits of the nawabs.
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