Things to do in Tamil Nadu
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Sri Meenakshi Temple
The Sri Meenakshi Temple is the abode of the triple-breasted, fish-eyed Goddess Meenakshi Amman (‘fish-eyed’ is an adjective for perfect eyes in classical Tamil poetry), is considered by many to be the height of South Indian temple architecture, as vital to the aesthetic heritage of this region as the Taj Mahal is to North India. It’s not so much a temple as a 6-hectare complex enclosed by 12 gopurams, the highest of which towers 52m over Madurai, and all of which are carved with a staggering array of gods, goddesses, demons and heroes.
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Coffee.Com
Puducherry's cosmopolitan vibe is typified by this hip little internet hang-out. It's a meeting place where you can go online, read magazines, drink espresso coffee and there's a widescreen TV and a selection of DVDs. The café also serves up great baguettes, pasta, pastries and milkshakes.
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Doddabetta Lookout
This is it: the highest point (2633m) of the Nilgiris and one of the best viewpoints around, assuming, as usual, the day is clear. It’s about 10km out of town; go early for better chances of a mist-free view. Any Kotagiri buses will drop you here.
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Rock Fort Temple
The Rock Fort Temple, perched 83m high on a massive outcrop, lords over Trichy with stony arrogance. The ancient rock was first hewn by religious-minded Pallavas, who cut small cave temples into the southern face, but it was the war-savvy Nayaks who later made strategic use of the naturally fortified position. There are two main temples: Sri Thayumanaswamy Temple, halfway to the top (there may be some bats snoozing in the ceiling), and VinayakaTemple, at the summit, dedicated to Ganesh. There are 437 stone-cut steps to climb, and the hike is worth the effort – the view is wonderful, with eagles wheeling beneath and Trichy sprawling all around into the greater Cauvery. Non…
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Tirumalai Nayak Palace
What the Meenakshi Temple is to Nayak religious architecture, the Tirumalai palace is to the secular. Unfortunately it’s in a state of rot today, but the shell that remains is still impressive. The main event is the entrance gate, main hall and Natakasala (Dance Hall), with their faded yellow plasterwork, lion and makara (crocodile-elephant creature) sculptures and a series of fabulous murals that hints at the opulence the Nayak rulers once enjoyed. The rectangular courtyard, 75m by 52m, is known as Swargavilasa (Celestial Pavilion), and while time has taken its toll, you still get the sense the plaza fully deserved the name. The Indo-Saracenic palace was built in 1636 …
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Arjuna's Penance
This relief carving on the face of a huge rock depicts animals, deities and other semidivine creatures as well as fables from the Hindu Panchatantra books. The panel (30m x 12m) is divided by a huge perpendicular fissure that's skilfully encompassed into the sculpture; originally, water, representing the Ganges, flowed down it.
It's one of the most convincing and unpretentious rock carvings in India, with the main relief showing Shiva standing with a wizened Arjuna, balanced on one leg in a state of penance. A guide can be useful to help explain the reliefs.
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Thread Garden
Your appreciation of the Thread Garden rests on your love of irony and kitsch. If that threshold is low, you’ll be disappointed. If it’s decent, you may, if you’re in a good mood, enjoy the ‘miracle’ (official description and just slight hyperbole) that is 150 species of ‘plants’ from around the world meticulously re-created using ‘hand-wound’ thread. The technique was perfected by Keralan artist Anthony Joseph and the work took 50 craftspeople 12 years to complete, which is either very impressive or kinda sad.
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Vivekananda House
The Vivekananda House is interesting not only for the displays on the famous ‘wandering monk’, but also for the semicircular structure in which it’s housed. Swami Vivekananda stayed here briefly in 1897 and preached his ascetic philosophy to adoring crowds. The museum houses a collection of photographs and memorabilia from the swami’s life, a gallery of religious historical paintings and the ‘meditation room’ where Vivekananda stayed. Free one-hour meditation classes are held on Wednesday nights at 7pm.
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Mahishamardini Mandapam
Scenes from the Puranas (Sanskrit stories dating from the 5th century AD) are depicted on the mandapam with the sculpture of the goddess Durga considered one of the finest.
Above the mandapam are the remains of the 8th-century Olakkannesvara Temple, and spectacular views of Mamallapuram. Photography is forbidden here for 'security reasons' - there's a nuclear power station a few kilometres south.
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San Thome Cathedral
Originally built by the Portuguese in 1504, then rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in 1893, San Thome Cathedral is a soaring Roman Catholic church between Kapaleeshwarar Temple and Marina Beach. In the basement is a chapel housing the tomb of St Thomas the Apostle (Doubting Thomas), who it is said brought Christianity to the subcontinent in the 1st century.
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Airatesvara Temple
Only 4km west of Kumbakonam in the village of Dharasuram, the Airatesvara Temple, constructed by Rajaraja II (1146–63), is a superb example of 12th-century Chola architecture. Fronted by columns overflowing with miniature sculptures, the temple art depicts, among other things, Shiva in the rare incarnation as Kankalamurti, the mendicant.
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Sidewalk Café
A cross between an American diner and an Italian cafe is something you’d expect to find in Mumbai rather than the mountains, but it’s a welcome change of scene. The fluorescent interior is oddly out of place in Ooty and the food is a bit overpriced, but if you’re craving something Western this is as good as it gets.
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Five Rathas
Carved from single pieces of rock, the Five Rathas are low-laying monoliths that huddle in more ancient subtlety than grandeur. Each temple is dedicated to a Hindu god and named for one of the Pandavas, the five hero-brothers of the epic Mahabharata, plus their common wife, Draupadi.
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Moonrakers
Like it or not, you’ll likely end up here at some stage; it’s the sort of place that magnetises travellers. Probably because it’s a three-storey resto-bar complex that dominates the backpacker-ghetto streetscape. Food is OK, ambience is better and beer is enjoyable from the top-floor verandah.
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Amethyst
Set in a stunning lemon-coloured, colonial-era building, this place is comfortably posh. The lush garden setting and patio dining takes the cake for restaurant ambience. Expect comfy couches, tasteful antique furniture and afternoon tea with lovely cucumber-and-mint-chutney sandwiches.
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Jayaram Fast Foods
There’s a busy (and yummy) bakery downstairs, and a crisp and clean restaurant up top that does a nice line in Indian fare, plus burgers and pizzas. While the latter aren’t winning any awards, this is as good a piece of pie as you’ll find in Madurai.
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Rendezvous
The steaks here are superb, but then again, so is just about anything at this suitably romantic restaurant, where diners can lounge in AC comfort or pick at their coq au vin under the stars on the lush garden terrace.
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Sathyam Cinema
Chennai has more than 100 cinemas, a reflection of the vibrant film industry here. Most screen Tamil films, but Sathyam Cinema often shows English-language films alongside local fare.
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Krishna's Butter Ball
Just north of the Ganesh Ratha is a huge boulder known as Krishna's Butter Ball. Immovable, but apparently balancing precariously, it's a favourite photo opportunity.
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Shinkow’s Chinese Restaurant
Shinkow’s is an Ooty institution and the simple menu of chicken, pork, beef, fish, noodles and rice dishes is usually pretty good, if kind of uninspired.
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Coconut Lagoon
Excellent Keralan and Goan fare with a focus on seafood delicacies, such as kari meen polli chathu (fish masala steamed in banana leaf).
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Green Shop
The Keystone Foundation runs the Green Shop, which sells honey and organic produce harvested by local and indigenous farmers.
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Mocha
The young and beautiful come here for coffee, hookahs (water pipes; Rs195 to Rs245) and snacks (Rs50 to Rs150). Lovely outdoor garden.
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Hotel Saravana Bhavan, Mylapore
Dependably delish, 'meals' at the Saravana Bhavans, although this locale has some 'special meals' if you're willing to pay a bit more.
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King's Cliff Restaurant
An atmospheric restaurant with quality multicuisine food. There's no alcohol permit, but you can BYO.
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