Things to do in Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)
-
A
Arjuna's Penance
This relief carving on the face of a huge rock depicts animals, deities and other semidivine creatures as well as fables from the Hindu Panchatantra books. The panel (30m x 12m) is divided by a huge perpendicular fissure that's skilfully encompassed into the sculpture; originally, water, representing the Ganges, flowed down it.
It's one of the most convincing and unpretentious rock carvings in India, with the main relief showing Shiva standing with a wizened Arjuna, balanced on one leg in a state of penance. A guide can be useful to help explain the reliefs.
reviewed
-
B
Mahishamardini Mandapam
Scenes from the Puranas (Sanskrit stories dating from the 5th century AD) are depicted on the mandapam with the sculpture of the goddess Durga considered one of the finest.
Above the mandapam are the remains of the 8th-century Olakkannesvara Temple, and spectacular views of Mamallapuram. Photography is forbidden here for 'security reasons' - there's a nuclear power station a few kilometres south.
reviewed
-
C
Five Rathas
Carved from single pieces of rock, the Five Rathas are low-laying monoliths that huddle in more ancient subtlety than grandeur. Each temple is dedicated to a Hindu god and named for one of the Pandavas, the five hero-brothers of the epic Mahabharata, plus their common wife, Draupadi.
reviewed
-
D
Moonrakers
Like it or not, you’ll likely end up here at some stage; it’s the sort of place that magnetises travellers. Probably because it’s a three-storey resto-bar complex that dominates the backpacker-ghetto streetscape. Food is OK, ambience is better and beer is enjoyable from the top-floor verandah.
reviewed
-
E
Siesta
On the shaded and breezy rooftop of Sri Murugan Guest House, this tapas restaurant offers - among other things - authentic Spanish omelette, patatas bravas (fried potatoes in a spicy sauce), garlic mushrooms and paella.
reviewed
-
F
Krishna's Butter Ball
Just north of the Ganesh Ratha is a huge boulder known as Krishna's Butter Ball. Immovable, but apparently balancing precariously, it's a favourite photo opportunity.
reviewed
-
G
Le Yogi
This is probably the best Western food in town. The steaks, pastas and pizzas are genuine and tasty (if small), service is stellar, and the airy dining area, with wooden accents, flickering candlelight and billowing fabrics, is romantic as all get out.
reviewed
-
H
Shore Temple
Standing like a magnificent fist of rock-cut elegance overlooking the sea, the Shore Temple symbolises the heights of Pallava architecture and the maritime ambitions of the Pallava kings. Its small size belies its excellent proportion and the supreme quality of the carvings, many of which have been eroded into vaguely Impressionist embellishments. Originally constructed in the 7th century, it was later rebuilt by Narasimhavarman II and houses two central shrines to Shiva. The layout is meant to resemble the perfect cosmic body, with the head and heart located over the spire that dominates the structure. Facing east and west, the original linga (phallic images of Shiva)…
reviewed
-
Relief carving
As if we couldn’t wax more poetic on Mamallapuram’s stonework, along comes this relief carving, one of the greatest of its age and certainly one of the most convincing and unpretentious works of ancient art in India. Inscribed into a huge boulder, the penance bursts with scenes of Hindu myth (notice the nagas, or snake-beings, that descend a cleft once filled with water, meant to represent the Ganges) and everyday vignettes of South Indian life. A herd of elephants marches under armies of angels, while Arjuna performs self-mortification so he can be granted Shiva’s most powerful weapon, the god-slaying Pasupata. In Hinduism, ‘penance’ does not mean suffering that…
reviewed
-
I
Wide Beach
The village is only about 200m from the wide beach, north of the Shore Temple, where local fishers pull in their boats. The beach is cleaner further north, or to the south of the Shore Temple, and you can take long unimpeded walks, although at high tide you need to walk over the rocks in front of the Shore Temple.
It's not a great place for swimming - there are dangerous rips - but it's possible to go fishing in one of local outriggers; negotiate a price with the owner. Despite the beach scene, Western swimwear is not the norm here and you (and local people) may feel more comfortable if you cover up.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
J
Poompuhar Handicrafts Emporium
Mamallapuram wakes each day to the sound of sculptors' chisels on granite. You can browse hassle-free and buy from the fixed-price Poompuhar Handicrafts Emporium or from the craft shops that line the main roads (prices negotiable). Sculptures range from Rs 300 (for a small piece to fit in your baggage) to Rs 400,000 for a massive Ganesh that needs to be lifted with a mobile crane.
reviewed
-
K
Krishna Mandapam
Many mandapams, featuring fine internal sculptures, are scattered over the main hill. Among them is Krishna Mandapam, one of the earliest rock-cut temples and predating the penance relief. Its carvings of a pastoral scene show Krishna lifting up the mythical Govardhana mountain to protect his kinsfolk from the wrath of Indra.
reviewed
-
L
Krishna
There are numerous places offering massage, reiki, yoga and ayurvedic practices. Sessions cost around Rs350 for 30 to 45 minutes. Krishna is recommended by both male and female travellers, as is Kamaraj Ayurvedic, which can be contacted through Moonrakers restaurant.
reviewed
-
Museum
This museum contains more than 3000 sculptures and paintings that run the gamut from interesting stonework to still-life depictions of fruit bowls that could have been found in grandma’s basement. We can safely say: you get your Rs2 worth.
reviewed
-
Freshly ‘N Hot
Yes, the name makes no sense, and we’re not sure it’s some cute misspelling either, considering the guys who run this open-air cafe have so many other Western standards down. Especially the ice coffee: hands down the best in town.
reviewed
-
M
Village Inn Restaurant
Tucked away off the main strip, there's cane furniture, a couple of tables on the veranda and Indian classical music playing in the background, with inexpensive seafood, steaks (order in advance) and, surprisingly, Scotch eggs.
reviewed
-
Hi!Tours
Hi!Tours runs bicycle tours to sights like the Tiger Cave. Tours run from 8am to 2pm and include guide and lunch. Hi! Tours also organises day trips to Kanchipuram and Vedantangal Bird Sanctuary.
reviewed
-
N
Nautilus
The Nautilus seems perpetually buzzing with every traveller you’ve ever met talking about how much they loved/hated/got-ripped-off-in Goa/Varanasi/Hampi/Cochi while eating eggs on toast and drinking smoothies.
reviewed
-
O
Lakshmi Tailor
Mamallapuram wakes to the sound of sculptors’ chisels on granite. There are lots of good art galleries, tailors and antique shops here. For clothes, we recommend Lakshmi Tailor.
reviewed
-
P
Sculpture Museum
The Sculpture Museum contains over 3000 local sculptures in stone, wood, metal and even cement. Some fine paintings are also on display and the front courtyard is littered with sculptures.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Q
Santana Beach Restaurant
If beachside ambience and the strains of Bob Marley are what you're after Santana Beach Restaurant is recommended for fresh seafood. It also makes a good setting for breakfast.
reviewed
-
R
Seashore Restaurant
If beachside ambience and the strains of Bob Marley are what you're after the Seashore Restaurant is recommended for fresh seafood. It also makes a good setting for breakfast.
reviewed
-
S
Bob Marley Café
If beachside ambience and the strains of Bob Marley are what you're after, Bob Marley Café is recommended for fresh seafood. It makes a good setting for breakfast too.
reviewed
-
T
Ganesh Ratha
This ratha is northwest of Arjuna's Penance. Once a Shiva temple, it became a shrine to Ganesh (the elephant-headed god) after the original lingam was removed.
reviewed
-
U
JK Bookshop
A small bookshop where you can buy or swap books in several languages, including English, French and German. Proceeds support village schools established by the owner.
reviewed