Things to do in Chennai (Madras)
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Vivekananda House
The Vivekananda House is interesting not only for the displays on the famous ‘wandering monk’, but also for the semicircular structure in which it’s housed. Swami Vivekananda stayed here briefly in 1897 and preached his ascetic philosophy to adoring crowds. The museum houses a collection of photographs and memorabilia from the swami’s life, a gallery of religious historical paintings and the ‘meditation room’ where Vivekananda stayed. Free one-hour meditation classes are held on Wednesday nights at 7pm.
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San Thome Cathedral
Originally built by the Portuguese in 1504, then rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in 1893, San Thome Cathedral is a soaring Roman Catholic church between Kapaleeshwarar Temple and Marina Beach. In the basement is a chapel housing the tomb of St Thomas the Apostle (Doubting Thomas), who it is said brought Christianity to the subcontinent in the 1st century.
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Amethyst
Set in a stunning lemon-coloured, colonial-era building, this place is comfortably posh. The lush garden setting and patio dining takes the cake for restaurant ambience. Expect comfy couches, tasteful antique furniture and afternoon tea with lovely cucumber-and-mint-chutney sandwiches.
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Sathyam Cinema
Chennai has more than 100 cinemas, a reflection of the vibrant film industry here. Most screen Tamil films, but Sathyam Cinema often shows English-language films alongside local fare.
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Coconut Lagoon
Excellent Keralan and Goan fare with a focus on seafood delicacies, such as kari meen polli chathu (fish masala steamed in banana leaf).
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Mocha
The young and beautiful come here for coffee, hookahs (water pipes; Rs195 to Rs245) and snacks (Rs50 to Rs150). Lovely outdoor garden.
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Hotel Saravana Bhavan, Mylapore
Dependably delish, 'meals' at the Saravana Bhavans, although this locale has some 'special meals' if you're willing to pay a bit more.
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Theosophical Society
Between the Adyar River and the coast, the 100 hectares of the Theosophical Society provide one of the few peaceful retreats from the city. The sprawling grounds contain a church, mosque, Buddhist shrine and Hindu temple. There’s a huge variety of native and introduced trees, including a famed 400-year-old banyan tree whose branches offer reprieving shade for over 40,000 sq ft. The Adyar Library here has an immense collection of books on religion and philosophy, from thousand-year-old Buddhist scrolls to intricate, handmade 19th-century bibles. If you’re interested in the Theosophical Society’s philosophy, call into the public relations office and chat with the director…
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Traditional Traders in George Town
George Town, the area that grew around the Fort, retains much of its original flavour. This is the wholesale centre of Chennai. Many backstreets, bordered by NSC Bose Rd, Krishna Koil St, Mint St and Rajaji Salai, are entirely given over to selling one particular type of merchandise as they have for hundreds of years - paper goods in Anderson St, fireworks in Badrian St and so on.
Even if you're not in the market for anything, wander the mazelike streets to see another aspect of Indian life flowing seamlessly from the past into the present.
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Valluvar Kottam
This memorial honours the Tamil poet Thiruvalluvar and his classic work, the Thirukural. A weaver by trade, Thiruvalluvar lived around the 1st century BC in what is present-day Chennai and wrote this famed poem, providing a moral code for millions of followers. The three-level memorial replicates ancient Tamil architecture and boasts an immense 35m chariot, as well as an enormous auditorium and inscriptions of the Thirukural ’s 1330 couplets.
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Little Mount
It is believed that from around AD 58, St Thomas lived in hiding at Little Mount. The cave still bears what some believe to be Thomas’ handprint, left when he escaped through an opening that miraculously appeared. Three kilometres on, St Thomas Mount (Parangi Malai) is thought to be the site of Thomas’ martyrdom in AD 72. Both mounts are about 1km from the Saidapet and St Thomas Mount train stations, respectively.
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Ramakrishna Mutt Temple
The tranquil, leafy grounds of the Ramakrishna Mutt Temple are a world away from the chaos and crazy rickshaw drivers outside. Orange-clad monks glide around and there’s a reverential feel here. The temple itself is a handsome shrine constructed in themes paying homage to India’s major religions. It’s open to followers of any faith for meditation.
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Marina Beach
During an early morning or evening stroll along the 13km sandy stretch of Marina Beach you'll pass cricket matches, kids flying kites, fortune tellers, fish markets and families enjoying the sea breeze. Don't swim here - strong rips make it dangerous. About 2km further south in Besant Nagar, Elliot's Beach is a more affluent place, popular with young couples.
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Fort St George
Finished around 1653 by the British East India Company, the fort has undergone many facelifts over the years. Inside the vast perimeter walls is now a precinct housing the Secretariat & Legislative Assembly. The 46m-high flagstaff at the main entrance is a mast salvaged from a 17th-century shipwreck.
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Kapaleeshwarar Temple
Chennai’s most active and impressive temple, the ancient Shiva Kapaleeshwarar Temple is constructed in the Dravidian style and displays the architectural elements – rainbow-coloured gopuram (gateway tower), mandapams (pavilions in front of a temple) and a huge tank – found in the famous temple cities of Tamil Nadu.
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Zara’s
Though this tiny place is a little tough to find, seekers will be rewarded by this ultracool tapas bar. Expect genuine Spanish flavour: everything from squid and olives to tortilla and sangria. Three-course lunch specials with wine or beer are a decent deal at Rs225/245 for veg/non-veg. The bar here doubles as a popular hang-out in it’s own right.
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Kerala Spice Trails
14 days (Chennai)
An intriguing journey capturing the highlights of Southern India.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$3,520 Advertisement
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Enfield Factory
The original Bullet remains in production today at the Enfield Factory, 17km outside of Chennai. Half-hour tours (Rs600) run on Saturdays at 10.30am. Enfield’s legendary motorbikes, designed in 1955 but manufactured just last week, truly give meaning to the term ‘modern-day classic’.
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Sparky’s Diner
Sparky’s is a wall-to-wall homage to kitsch. This expat-run ‘American’ diner is plastered with US state licence plates and movie posters, has Sinatra crooning on the radio, and decks its waiters out in baseball shirts. Look out for OK American specials like deep-fried chicken or Cajun gumbo.
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Geoffrey’s Pub
This modern version of the English pub is one of the few places in Chennai that hosts live music nightly. Not always great music, but music nonetheless. The atmosphere is casual, with Kollywood types occasionally gracing the place with their presence.
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Kalakshetra Arts Village
Founded in 1936, Kalakshetra is committed to reviving classical dance and music. Check out one of their regular performances, or a class (9am to 11am and 2pm to 4.30pm Monday to Friday). Four-month courses in music and dance cost Rs750 per month.
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Fisherman’s Fare
This small, spotless, AC dining room gets packed to the rafters come lunchtime, with punters digging into well-prepared fish fare ranging from shrimp to fish curries to tandoori fish. There’s a great lunchtime special for Rs155.
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