Sights in West Sikkim
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Pemayangtse Gompa
Literally translated as ‘Perfect Sublime Lotus’, the 1705 Pemayangtse is one of Sikkim’s oldest and most significant Nyingmapa gompas. Magnificently set on a hilltop overlooking the Rabdentse ruins, the atmospheric compound is ringed by gardens and traditional monks’ cottages walled in unpainted stone. The contrastingly colourful prayer hall is beautifully proportioned, its doors and windows painted with Tibetan motifs. The statue is of Padmasambhava in his awful form as Dorje Bhurpa Vajrakila with multiple heads and arms. Upstairs, fierce-looking statues depict all eight of Padmasambhava’s incarnations. On the top floor, Zandog Palri is an astounding seven-tier…
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Rabdentse
The royal capital of Sikkim from 1670 to 1814, the now-ruined Rabdentse consists of chunky wall-stubs with a few inset inscription stones. These would look fairly unremarkable were they not situated on such an utterly fabulous viewpoint ridge. The entrance to the site is around 3km from Upper Pelling. From the site’s ornate yellow gateway, the ruins are a further 15-minutes’ hike around a pond then across a forested hill.
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