Things to do in Udaipur
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Bagore-Ki-Haveli
This gracious 18th-century haveli museum, on the water’s edge near Gangaur Ghat, was built by a former prime minister and has been carefully restored. There are 138 rooms set around courtyards. Some recreate the times when the house was inhabited, others have cultural displays, including the world’s (rather saggy) biggest turban! The haveli also houses an interesting art gallery, with contemporary and folk art, and world-famous monuments lovingly carved out of polystyrene. The upper courtyard makes an atmospheric setting for fabulous Rajasthani dance performances at 7pm.
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City Palace Museum
The City Palace museum includes the Mor Chowk, with its lavish mosaics of peacocks, the favourite Rajasthani bird. The Manak (Ruby) Mahal has glass and mirrorwork, while Krishna Vilas has a remarkable collection of miniatures (no photography allowed). In the Bari Mahal there is a pleasant central garden. The Moti Mahal has beautiful mirrorwork and the Chini Mahal is covered in ornamental tiles.
More wall paintings can be seen in the Zenana Mahal. There's a large tiger-catching cage near the Zenana Mahal entrance.
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Cafe Edelweiss
The Savage Garden folks run this itsy piece of Europe that appeals to homesick and discerning travellers. The cake tray, including cinnamon rolls, apple pies and chocolate cake, disappears quickly, and it’s tough to get a seat. The coffee (Rs30 to Rs40) is pretty good.
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Sajjan Garh (Monsoon Palace)
Perched on the top of a distant mountain range like a fairy-tale castle, this neglected late-19th-century palace was constructed by Maharaja Sajjan Singh. Originally an astronomical centre, it later became a monsoon palace and hunting lodge. Now government-owned, it’s open to the public, but there is not much to see inside, apart from a dreary nature interpretation centre and empty rooms screaming potential. Come for the breathtaking sunset views.
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Whistling Teal
This restaurant with superlative curries and exemplary service is entered through the foyer of the Raj Palace Hotel. Set well back from the street in a putting-green-perfect garden, here you can drink cocktails or smoke a hookah in saddles at the bar. The espresso coffee is the real thing – there is also a small coffee bar fronting Bhattiyani Chohtta.
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Lotus Cafe
This funky little restaurant plucks out fabulous chicken dishes (predominantly Indian) and is ideal for meeting and greeting other travellers. There are board games available, a mezzanine to loll about on, and plenty of cool background sounds.
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Sadhna
This is the outlet for Seva Mandir, an NGO set up in 1969 to help rural women. The small shop sells attractive fixed-price textiles; profits go to the artisans and towards community development work.
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Hotel Krishna Niwas Cookery Classes
Sushma runs tremendous cookery classes for two hours, including meal. While Jairaj is an internationally renowned artist who teaches miniature and classical painting.
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Gallery Pristine
More showroom than gallery, this collection proves that Shahid Parvez and friends are the pick of Udaipur's rich crop of contemporary artists.
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Ashtang Yoga Ashram
The teacher here of hatha yoga has upwards of 20 years’ experience; payment is by donation (proceeds go to the local animal hospital).
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Natraj Lodge
Justifiably famous throughout town for its delicious all-you-can-eat Gujarati thalis, this place is permanently busy with locals.
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World Wide Fund for Nature
In the large Manak Chowk (courtyard) outside the City Palace museum is the World Wide Fund for Nature shop.
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Princess Trails
An Indian–German company offering extended horse safaris and half-day nature rides on the famed Marwari horses.
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Dharohar
The beautiful Bagore-ki-Haveli hosts the best (and most convenient) opportunity to see Rajasthani folk dancing.
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Maxim’s Cafe
Maxim’s has a small, two-tiered roof-top terrace overlooking the Jagdish Temple. The fresh, pure-vegetarian food includes Indian staples plus Chinese, continental and pizza.
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City Palace
The imposing City Palace, surmounted by balconies, towers and cupolas, and towering over the lake, is Rajasthan’s largest palace, with a facade 244m long and 30.4m high. A conglomeration of buildings created by various maharajas, it almost manages to retain a uniformity of design. Construction was started by Maharana Udai Singh II, the city’s founder. There are fine views over the lake and the city from the upper terraces.
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Crystal Gallery
There’s a stunning crystal gallery at the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel, though the admission charge is rather expensive. Maharaja Sajjan Singh ordered this rare crystal from F&C Osler & Co in England in 1877; he died before it arrived, and all the items stayed packed up in boxes for 110 years. The extravagant, unused collection includes crystal chairs, sofas, tables and even beds. Photography is prohibited.
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Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel
A wonderful, classy restaurant with superb lake views, delicious Indian cuisine and good service. Choose from an extensive selection of rich curries (tempered for Western tastes) – mutton, chicken, fish, veg – as well as the tandoori classics. There’s a tempting bar menu of cocktails and the beer is icy. It’s wise to book ahead for dinner.
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Ahar Museum
About 2km east of Udaipur are over 250 restored cenotaphs of the maharajas of Mewar; it's a spectacular city of snowy domes built over a period of 350 years. Nearby you can visit the patchy remains of the Sisodias' ancient capital, and the Ahar museum, housing accompanying artefacts, some over 5000 years old.
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Jagdish Temple
Only 150m north of the City Palace entrance, this fantastically carved Indo-Aryan temple was built by Maharaja Jagat Singh in 1651. It enshrines a black stone image of Vishnu as Jagannath, Lord of the Universe. A brass image of Garuda is in a shrine in front of the temple.
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Berry’s
A cosy and cool restaurant with a shiny brass door and a swirling fish tank, Berry’s is a good bet in the evening, when the trade is busy and the white-tablecloth service comes to the fore. The cooking is classy veg and nonveg, with quality Indian plus Chinese and continental.
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Shilpgram
Shilpgram is a crafts village that hosts the Shilpgram festival each December – check with the Tourist Reception Centre for details. The rest of the year sees demonstrations by traditional performers and artisans from Rajasthan, Gujarat, Goa and Maharashtra.
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Saheliyon-Ki-Bari
In the north of the city is the Saheliyon-ki-Bari. This small, quaint, ornamental garden was laid out for 48 women attendants who came as part of a princess’s dowry, and has fountains (water permitting), kiosks, marble elephants and a delightful lotus pool.
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Lake Palace Hotel
This Udaipur institution will never live up to its hype, but where else can you eat in such surrounds? As well as the sumptuous buffet lunch, there is a three-course dinner (Rs3000 plus taxes). Reservations are mandatory, at least the day before, and dress is smart casual.
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City Palace Government Museum
The City Palace government museum is based in the City Palace complex. Exhibits include a freaky monkey holding a lamp, as well as more serious stuff, such as sculptures, and maharaja portraits with a spectacular array of moustaches.
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