Other sights in Southern Rajasthan
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Bagore-Ki-Haveli
This gracious 18th-century haveli museum, on the water’s edge near Gangaur Ghat, was built by a former prime minister and has been carefully restored. There are 138 rooms set around courtyards. Some recreate the times when the house was inhabited, others have cultural displays, including the world’s (rather saggy) biggest turban! The haveli also houses an interesting art gallery, with contemporary and folk art, and world-famous monuments lovingly carved out of polystyrene. The upper courtyard makes an atmospheric setting for fabulous Rajasthani dance performances at 7pm.
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Sajjan Garh (Monsoon Palace)
Perched on the top of a distant mountain range like a fairy-tale castle, this neglected late-19th-century palace was constructed by Maharaja Sajjan Singh. Originally an astronomical centre, it later became a monsoon palace and hunting lodge. Now government-owned, it’s open to the public, but there is not much to see inside, apart from a dreary nature interpretation centre and empty rooms screaming potential. Come for the breathtaking sunset views.
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Maharao Raja Bahadur Singh Museum
This museum is housed in the Moti Mahal, where the current royal descendents live. It is an extraordinary celebration of the lives of the more recent royal members. The first hall is stuffed with stuffed wildlife, chiefly tigers shot by Indian, British and American luminaries. Most visitors are dumbstruck by the tigress with two cubs – all shot by ‘Mr Milton Reynolds, inventor of the ball point pen, in 1953 at Bhimlat’. Other halls contain royal portraits and arrays of weapons.
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Rao Madho Singh Museum
The city palace houses the excellent Rao Madho Singh Museum. You’ll find all the stuff necessary for a respectable royal existence – silver furniture, ingenious weapons and a stable of palanquins. The oldest part of the palace dates from 1624. Amazing mirror work and some of Rajasthan’s best-preserved miniatures decorate the small-scale apartments – the upstairs rooms dance with exquisite paintings of hunting and court scenes.
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Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary
The Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary is known for its leopards and wolves. Other wildlife includes chowsinghas (four-horned antelope) and sloth bears. The period from March to June, when water is scarce, is the best time to see animals. You need permission from the forest department in nearby Kelwara to enter. All hotels can arrange permits and three-hour horse or jeep safaris.
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Bundi Palace
This palace is an extraordinary decaying edifice with fabulous though fading turquoise-and-gold murals. It’s reached from the bazaar’s northwestern end. It was previously shut up and left to the bats, but the erstwhile royal family have leased it to a private company to clean it up and it’s now open to the public. Knowledgeable guides (Rs250) hang around the ticket office.
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Ranakpur
Ninety kilometres north of Udaipur, Ranakpur is another incredible feat of Jain devotion. Carved from milk-white marble, the complicated series of 29 halls, supported by a forest of 1444 pillars (no two alike), is the finest in Rajasthan, and one the most important in India. The devotion of its builders is encapsulated in the intricate carving.
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Juna Mahal
About 110km south of Udaipur, splendid Dungarpur, the City of Hills, was founded in the 13th century. You can visit the wonderful deserted old palace, Juna Mahal, with its murals, including the Kama Sutra secreted in a cupboard. The former royal hunting lodge, on a nearby hilltop, has sensational views. Buy tickets from Udai Bilas Palace.
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Government Museum
Near Kishore Sagar, this small, run-down government museum has a collection of 9th- to 12th-century stone idols, a 3rd-century inscription and Copper Age sculptural fragments, as well as some miniature paintings. It is not worth a visit unless you are truly archaeologically bent.
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Jagdish Temple
Only 150m north of the City Palace entrance, this fantastically carved Indo-Aryan temple was built by Maharaja Jagat Singh in 1651. It enshrines a black stone image of Vishnu as Jagannath, Lord of the Universe. A brass image of Garuda is in a shrine in front of the temple.
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Dilwara Temples
These temples rank among India’s finest temple architecture. Note, no photography is allowed (though photographs are sold outside). As at other Jain temples, leather articles (belts as well as shoes) have to be left at the entrance and menstruating women are warned away.
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City Palace
Beside the Kota Barrage, overlooking the river, is the complex housing the City Palace and fort; it’s one of Rajasthan’s largest. Entry is from the south side through the Naya Darwaza (New Gate).
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Kumbalgarh
An incredible stone fort, Kumbalgarh is situated 84km north of Udaipur, 1100m skyward in the Aravalli hills. Built by Maharana Kumba in the 15th century, the colossal structure fulfils romantic expectations of Rajput grandeur.
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Mt Abu Wildlife Sanctuary
This 290-sq-km sanctuary, 5.5km northeast of Mt Abu, on a large plateau, is home to leopards, deer, foxes and bears. It’s about a 3km walk from the Dilwara temples. Contact Mt Abu Treks to arrange an overnight stay.
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Chambal Gardens
Kota is surprisingly blessed with gardens. Chambal Gardens are on the riverbank south of the fort. Luckily, crocodiles no longer reside in the murky cement ponds, so to see the crocs you need to take a boat ride.
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Umed Bhawan Palace
Surrounded by sprawling gardens, this gracious palace is stuffily Edwardian. It’s grander than the Brijraj Bhawan, with voluminous rooms, but they are darker and the overall feel is impersonal.
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Museum
About 2km east of Udaipur you can visit the patchy remains of the Sisodias’ ancient capital, and a museum housing artefacts, some over 5000 years old.
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Bhartiya Lok Kala Museum
This small, private museum exhibits tribal jewellery, musical instruments, paintings and puppets and stages a daily puppet show.
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Fateh Prakash Palace
Just beyond Rana Kumbha Palace, this palace is more modern and houses a small, poorly labelled museum and a school.
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