Other sights in Rajasthan
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Mehrangarh
Still run by the descendants of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, Mehrangarh is captivating. As you approach, the walls soar overhead in a mesmerising demonstration of the skills of the builders. Cast off your audio-tour prejudices, as this tour, covered by the foreign-visitor admission charge (which also includes camera fees), is terrific, with a mix of history, information and dramatically narrated anecdotes. It’s a real treat to wander around at your leisure, taking a fix of information when you feel like it. Personal guides are available for Rs150.
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Bagore-Ki-Haveli
This gracious 18th-century haveli museum, on the water’s edge near Gangaur Ghat, was built by a former prime minister and has been carefully restored. There are 138 rooms set around courtyards. Some recreate the times when the house was inhabited, others have cultural displays, including the world’s (rather saggy) biggest turban! The haveli also houses an interesting art gallery, with contemporary and folk art, and world-famous monuments lovingly carved out of polystyrene. The upper courtyard makes an atmospheric setting for fabulous Rajasthani dance performances at 7pm.
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C
Salim Singh-ki-Haveli
This private haveli has an amazing, distinctive shape – the top storey mushrooms out into a mass of carving, with graceful arched balconies surmounted by pale blue cupolas. It was built about 300 years ago; part of it is still occupied. Salim Singh was a fearsome prime minister when Jaisalmer was the capital of a princely state.
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Sajjan Garh (Monsoon Palace)
Perched on the top of a distant mountain range like a fairy-tale castle, this neglected late-19th-century palace was constructed by Maharaja Sajjan Singh. Originally an astronomical centre, it later became a monsoon palace and hunting lodge. Now government-owned, it’s open to the public, but there is not much to see inside, apart from a dreary nature interpretation centre and empty rooms screaming potential. Come for the breathtaking sunset views.
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Ranthambore National Park
This national park is 1334 sq km of wild jungle scrub hemmed in by rocky ridges. At its centre is the 10th-century Ranthambore Fort, and scattered nearby are ancient temples and mosques, crocodile-filled lakes, chhatris (cenotaphs) and hides. The park was a maharajas’ hunting ground till 1970 – a curious 15 years after it had become a sanctuary.
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Amber Fort
Construction of Amber Fort was begun in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, the Rajput commander of Akbar’s army. It was later extended by the Jai Singhs before the move to Jaipur.
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D
Nathmal-ki-Haveli
This late-19th-century haveli was also a Jaisalmer prime minister’s house and is still partly inhabited. It drips with carving, and the 1st floor has some beautiful paintings that used 1.5kg of gold. A doorway is surrounded by 19th-century British postcards from the prime minister’s time, and there’s also a picture of Queen Victoria. The left and right wings were the work of two brothers, whose competitive spirit apparently produced this virtuoso work – the two sides are similar, but not identical. Sandstone elephants welcome visitors/shoppers.
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Suraj Mahl’s Palace
Deeg is famous for the Suraj Mahl’s Palace, one of India’s most beautiful palace complexes, made up of delicately proportioned buildings (bhavans) set in geometric gardens. The main building, Gopal Bhavan was used by the maharajas until the early 1950s, and rooms contain their original furnishings, from faded, spilling sofas to huge swing fans. Built in a combination of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles, the 18th-century palace sits in front of a large tank (reservoir), the Gopal Sagar, and is flanked by two exquisite pavilions. Outside, the gardens continue the extravagant theme; the Keshav Bhavan (Summer Pavilion) is engineered to mimic the sound of thunder…
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E
Junagarh Fort
Constructed between 1588 and 1593 by Raja Rai Singh – a general in the army of the Mughal emperor Akbar – this most impressive fort has a 986m-long wall with 37 bastions, a moat and two entrances. The Surajpol (Sun Gate) is the main entrance to the fort. Here you will be accosted by private guides, even though your ticket includes either the audio guide or an official fort guide (leaving every 15 minutes or so from the ticket office). The palaces within the fort are on the southern side, and make a picturesque ensemble of courtyards, balconies, kiosks, towers and windows. The museum here is fascinating and well labelled, with over-the-top costumes, jewellery and a…
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Jaigarh
A scrubby green hill rises above Amber and is topped by the imposing Jaigarh, built in 1726 by Jai Singh. The stern fort, punctuated by whimsical-hatted lookout towers, was never captured and has survived intact through the centuries. It’s an uphill walk (about 1km) from Amber and offers great views from the Diwa Burj watchtower. The fort has reservoirs, residential areas, a puppet theatre and the world’s largest wheeled cannon, Jaya Vana. Admission is free with a valid ticket from the Jaipur City Palace that is less than two days old.
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Fort Palace Museum
The Jaisalmer fort is entered through a forbidding series of massive gates leading to a large courtyard fronted by the elegant seven-storey palace. Part of the palace is open to the public as the Fort Palace Museum. The foreigner admission includes an audio guide and camera fee. With floor upon floor of fascinating rooms that peep creepily on the outside world, the highlights are the mirrored and painted Rang Mahal, a small gallery of finely wrought 15th-century sculptures and the spectacular 360-degree views from the top.
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Kothari’s Patwa Haveli Museum
Most magnificent of all the havelis, its stonework like honey-coloured lace, Patwa-ki-Havel i towers over a narrow lane. It was built between 1800 and 1860 by five Jain brothers who were brocade and jewellery merchants. It’s most impressive from the outside. The first of the five sections is opened as the privately owned Kothari’s Patwa Haveli Museum, which richly evokes 19th-century life. Next door is the forlorn and empty (apart from pigeons and bats) government-owned haveli.
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Exorcism temple
The extraordinary Hindu exorcism temple is about 3km off the Jaipur–Agra road. People bring their possessed loved ones here to have bad spirits exorcised through prayer and rituals. Most exorcisms take place on Tuesday and Saturday, and the only people who can get inside the temple are the holy men and the victims – services are relayed to the crowds outside on video screens. The possessed scream, shout, dance and shake their heads. The often disturbing scenes at this temple may upset some.
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Maharao Raja Bahadur Singh Museum
This museum is housed in the Moti Mahal, where the current royal descendents live. It is an extraordinary celebration of the lives of the more recent royal members. The first hall is stuffed with stuffed wildlife, chiefly tigers shot by Indian, British and American luminaries. Most visitors are dumbstruck by the tigress with two cubs – all shot by ‘Mr Milton Reynolds, inventor of the ball point pen, in 1953 at Bhimlat’. Other halls contain royal portraits and arrays of weapons.
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Chand Baori
About 100km from Jaipur on the Agra road, this remote village, surrounded by wheat fields, is the unlikely location for one of Rajasthan’s most awe-inspiring baoris (step-wells). An incredible geometric sight, Chand Baori has around 11 visible levels of zigzagging steps and is 20m deep. The well, the crumbling palace and the Harshat Mata Temple are believed to have been built by King Chand, ruler of Abhaneri and a Rajput from the Chahamana dynasty.
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Sariska Tiger Reserve
Lying in a wooded valley between Alwar and Jaipur, Sariska Tiger Reserve has been at the centre of controversy since 2005 when it was revealed that there were no tigers living in the park. In late 2008 the big cats were once more roaming the reserve, having been relocated from Ranthambore National Park. It is hoped that this reintroduction, coupled with the relocation of villages within the park, will result in a sustainable tiger population.
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Main Temple
About 15km northwest of Jaisalmer are the deserted ruins of Lodhruva, the ancient capital before the move to Jaisalmer. The Jain temples, rebuilt in the late 1970s, are sole reminders of the city’s former magnificence. The main temple enshrines a finely wrought silver image of Parasnath, the 23rd tirthankar. Apparently a cobra lives in the complex. A taxi will cost about Rs700 and will include a visit to Amar Sagar.
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Pokaran Fort
At the junction of the Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Bikaner roads, 110km from Jaisalmer, Pokaran Fort is a dusty berry-coloured sandstone stronghold that overlooks a tangle of narrow streets lined by balconied houses. It dates from the 14th to 17th centuries and once had charge of 108 villages; part of it is now the hotel Fort Pokaran. There’s not much to see here, but a stop breaks the journey between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer.
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Rao Madho Singh Museum
The city palace houses the excellent Rao Madho Singh Museum. You’ll find all the stuff necessary for a respectable royal existence – silver furniture, ingenious weapons and a stable of palanquins. The oldest part of the palace dates from 1624. Amazing mirror work and some of Rajasthan’s best-preserved miniatures decorate the small-scale apartments – the upstairs rooms dance with exquisite paintings of hunting and court scenes.
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Alwar Museum
The convoluted City Palace complex with its massive gates and tank is lined by a beautifully symmetrical procession of ghats and pavilions. Hidden upstairs in the former City Palace is the interesting Alwar Museum. The museum’s exhibits evoke the extravagance of the maharajas’ lifestyle, with stunning weapons, royal ivory slippers, fascinating and unexpected miniatures, and old musical instruments.
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Dargah
Located in the old part of town is one of India’s most important Muslim pilgrimage sites. The dargah is the tomb of a Sufi saint, Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti, who came to Ajmer from Persia in 1192 and lived here until 1233. Construction of the shrine was completed by Humayun and the gate was added by the Nizam of Hyderabad. Akbar used to make the pilgrimage to the dargah from Agra every year.
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Anokhi Museum of Handprinting
Continuing past Amber Fort into the ancient town, you’ll find the Anokhi Museum of Handprinting, which superbly documents the resurgence in hand-block printing, and runs hands-on demonstrations. The haveli, reached up cobblestone pathways, is itself worth the visit, and you can buy a T-shirt and block-print it yourself. A cafe serves excellent coffee and there’s also a gift shop.
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Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary
The Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary is known for its leopards and wolves. Other wildlife includes chowsinghas (four-horned antelope) and sloth bears. The period from March to June, when water is scarce, is the best time to see animals. You need permission from the forest department in nearby Kelwara to enter. All hotels can arrange permits and three-hour horse or jeep safaris.
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Bundi Palace
This palace is an extraordinary decaying edifice with fabulous though fading turquoise-and-gold murals. It’s reached from the bazaar’s northwestern end. It was previously shut up and left to the bats, but the erstwhile royal family have leased it to a private company to clean it up and it’s now open to the public. Knowledgeable guides (Rs250) hang around the ticket office.
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Karni Mata Temple
The extraordinary Karni Mata Temple at Deshnok, 30km south of Bikaner, is one of India’s weirder attractions. According to legend, Karni Mata, a 14th-century incarnation of Durga, asked the god of death, Yama, to restore to life the son of a grieving storyteller. When Yama refused, Karni Mata reincarnated all dead storytellers as rats, depriving Yama of human souls.
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