Things to do in Jodhpur
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Mehrangarh
Still run by the descendants of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, Mehrangarh is captivating. As you approach, the walls soar overhead in a mesmerising demonstration of the skills of the builders. Cast off your audio-tour prejudices, as this tour, covered by the foreign-visitor admission charge (which also includes camera fees), is terrific, with a mix of history, information and dramatically narrated anecdotes. It’s a real treat to wander around at your leisure, taking a fix of information when you feel like it. Personal guides are available for Rs150.
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JG Art & Crafts
Abhay Kumar is the proprietor of this excellent store, which has a cheap and reliable international courier service, and all kinds of handicrafts and fabrics.
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Omelette Shop
Just through the gate (by the inner arch – surrounded by imitators) on the northern side of the square, the Omelette Shop claims to go through several thousand eggs a day – the egg man has been doing his thing for over 30 years. Two tasty, spicy boiled eggs cost Rs10, and an oily two-egg omelette with chilli, coriander and four pieces of bread Rs15.
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On the Rocks
This leafy garden restaurant (candle-lit in the evening) is frequented by families and tour groups. It has tasty Indian cuisine, including lots of barbecue options, a small playground and a cave-like bar, Rocktails (open 7.30pm to 11pm), with a dance floor (couples only).
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Kalinga Restaurant
This restaurant near the train station is smart and popular, with a bright, classy ambience and AC. It has a well-stocked bar, and tasty veg and nonveg North Indian dishes – tandoori and curries. Try the lal maans, a mouthwatering Rajasthani mutton curry.
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Handloom House
This is a huge department store thronged with locals. Alongside some questionable clothes are mountains of fixed-price bandhani, silk saris and woollen shawls.
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Maharani Art Exporters
Maharani Art Exporters is one of the better bets for quality replica antiques.
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Janta Sweets
The 'home of sweets' comes pretty close to the money, with superb mawa ladoo and mawa katchori, and a high customer turnover.
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Govind Hotel
Coffee drinkers will find the precious beans and espresso machines at the rooftop Coffee Bar at the Govind Hotel.
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Refreshment Room
There's a strangely timeless ambience here, and surprisingly palatable food.
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Mid Town
Mid Town is fine dining with a choice of seating, live folk music and great veg food. It serves Rajasthani specialities, including some particular to Jodhpur, such as chakki-ka-sagh (wheat dumpling cooked in rich gravy) and kabuli (vegetables with rice, milk, bread and fruit). The Rajasthani thali costs Rs100.
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Indique
This refined candle-lit rooftop terrace is the perfect place for a romantic dinner. Even murky Gulab Sagar glistens at night and the views to the fort, clock tower and Umaid Bhawan are superb. The food is traditional tandoori and North Indian curries and you won’t be disappointed by the old favourites – butter chicken and rogan josh. On your way, drop into the delightful 18th Century Bar with saddle bar stools and enough heritage paraphernalia to have you ordering pink gins.
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Marwar Eco Cultural Tours & Travels
Jodhpur is renowned for its village safaris – jeep trips to local Bishnoi villages, potters and dhurrie (rug) weavers. The Bishnoi are a tribal sect who believe in the sanctity of the environment. Their desire to protect trees and animals dates from the 15th century. It’s a well-worn trail, so it can feel touristy – your enjoyment depends on how good your guide is. Marwar Eco Cultural Tours & Travels is a recommended private operator.
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Jharokha
The rooftop terraces of the Hotel Haveli host one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Jodhpur. As well as the excellent food and views there’s nightly entertainment of traditional music and dance. The dishes include Rajasthani specialities and traditional North Indian favourites, as well as pizza, pasta and pancakes for the homesick.
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Mehran Terrace
Dining on one of the fort’s lofty terraces is unsurpassably romantic and, while the service won’t win any awards, the thali is rich and constantly refilled. The candle-lit, well-spaced tables, live music and traditional dancing, all 140m above the city, make for an unforgettable occasion. Don’t forget to book.
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Agra Sweets
This sweet shop, opposite Sojati Gate, sells good lassis, as well as delectable Jodhpur specialities such as mawa ladoo (a milk sweet made with sugar, cardamom and pistachios, wrapped in silver leaf) and the baklava-like mawa kachori.
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Bollygood
Run by same owner as On the Rocks, this themed restaurant is brightly lit and overstaffed and - once the word spreads - will be a great place for a drink. Dishes are named after Indian movie stars, but the Bollygood veg platter wins the gong.
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Parul's Kathak Dance Academy
Parul's Kathak Dance Academy offers intensive one-on-one courses in classical Kathak, including an audio recording so you can keep in step after class. Prices vary depending on level and duration. Email for more information.
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Hotel Priya & Restaurant
If you can handle the traffic fumes, this street-facing place has a certain cheerful clamour, and serves up reliable North and South Indian cuisine. The thalis (Rs50) are good and there are sweets too.
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Shri Mishrilal Hotel
At the clock tower, this place is nothing fancy, but whips up the most superb creamy makhania lassis. These are the best in town, probably in all of Rajasthan, possibly in all of India.
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Sadar Government Museum
The Umaid Gardens are home to the Sadar Government Museum, which feels frozen in time. The poorly labelled exhibits include weapons and 6th- to 10th-century sculptures.
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Five Star Fruit Juice
The pick of the fruit-juice bunch, this hole-in-the-wall juice shop serves superfresh combinations in a traveller-friendly atmosphere.
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Gemar Singh
Gemar Singh arranges homestays, camping, desert walks and camel safaris to Osiyan and surrounding Rajput and Bishnoi villages.
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Garden Restaurant
Near Ajit Bhawan, this is a large, lovely garden restaurant, candlelit at night, with excellent Indian and Continental dishes.
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Sarvodaya Book Stall
Near the train station, stocks a small range of English-language magazines and books, including Lonely Planet.
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