Getting there & away
All foreign visitors to Jaisalmer must now pay a tourist tax of Rs 20. It can be threateningly enforced upon newcomers arriving by bus or train, so be sure you pay the right person.
The main Roadways bus stand (251541) is near the train station. Fortunately, all buses start at a more convenient bus stand southwest of the fort. Private buses leave from Airforce Circle.
You can book private buses through most travel agencies – if you can’t get a ticket, check with a few agencies, as sometimes people will tell you a bus is full when it’s not. Destinations include Bikaner (local/deluxe Rs 110/130), Jaipur (Rs 180/190), Jodhpur (local/deluxe/sleeper Rs 70/90/110), Mt Abu (local/deluxe Rs 220/240) and Ahmedabad (deluxe/sleeper Rs 200/300). Be aware that most private buses (except those going to Bikaner) require a change at Jodhpur. Some travellers have found themselves in Jodhpur with a useless onward ticket, so make sure you clarify what you’re getting.
There’s a train reservation office (8am-8pm) at the station.
There are numerous trains to/from Jodhpur, including the Jodhpur–Jaisalmer Express (No 4809), which leaves Jaisalmer at 11.15pm, arriving in Jodhpur at 5.15am (sleeper/3AC Rs 157/411, 294km). The return trip (No 4810) leaves Jodhpur at 11.15pm and arrives in Jaisalmer at 5.15am. The Jaisalmer Delhi Express (No 4060) leaves at 4.15pm, calls at Jodhpur at 10pm (2nd class/chair Rs 97/322), Jaipur at 5.15am (sleeper/3AC Rs 256/690, 313km) and Delhi at 10.43am (sleeper/3AC Rs 322/877, 623km). The other way, the train (No 4059) leaves Delhi at 6.15pm and arrives in Jaisalmer 19 hours later.
The airport has been closed for some years, due to border tensions with Pakistan. If it reopens, the agent for Indian Airlines is Crown Tours (/fax 251912), about 350m west of Amar Sagar Gate.