Things to do in Jaipur
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Jantar Mantar
Near the City Palace is Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh in 1728, which at first glance looks like a collection of mammoth, bizarre sculptures. The guided tour (30 minutes to one hour) is well worthwhile; guides provide explanations of how each of the fascinating instruments work, and how – through watching, recording and meticulous calculation – Jai Singh measured time by the course of the sun’s shadow and charted the annual progress through the zodiac. Each construction has a specific purpose, such as calculating eclipses. The most striking instrument is the sundial, with its 27m-high gnomon; the shadow this casts moves up to 4m per hour.
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Maharaja Sawai Mansingh Sangeet Mahavidyalaya
This is an excellent music school located behind Tripolia Gate. Tuition (per month from Rs500) is given in dance and in Indian instruments such as tabla (pair of drums) and bakhawas (double-sided drum).
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Trattoria
This Italian restaurant offers wood-fired pizzas and pasta dishes - even Italians recommend it. It's on the candlelit rooftop, and offers a rare chance to eat outside in Jaipur. It's behind Amber Tower.
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Peacock Rooftop Restaurant
Overlooking Hathroi Fort – and most of Jaipur – this multilevel rooftop restaurant with an extraordinary peacock canopy has excellent views and food to match. Sit in the quirky iron furniture or upstairs in the romantic nook to enjoy superb Indian and Chinese dishes, or even a pizza. There are great value thalis (veg and nonveg starting at Rs50) and Western breakfasts.
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Lassiwala
This milky institution is a simple little place that whips up fabulous, creamy lassis (yoghurt and filtered iced-water drink) served in clay cups. Will the real Lassiwala please stand up? It’s the one that says ‘Shop 312’, directly next to the alleyway; imitators spread to the right as you face it.
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Handi Restaurant
This old favourite is opposite the main post office, at the back of Maya Mansions, and offers scrumptious barbecue dishes and Mughlai cuisine in a village atmosphere. In the evenings a deliciously tempting smoky kebab stall sets up at the entrance to the restaurant.
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Jaipur Inn
This guesthouse has a rooftop restaurant with stupendous views over Jaipur. The scrumptious Indian veg buffet dinner is sociable and superb (nonguests book in advance).
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Mohan
This popular chow pit is grubby on the outside, but prepares freshly cooked food on the inside. The name is in Hindi and it’s on the corner of the street.
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The Old City
The Pink City is partially encircled by a crenellated, battle-scarred wall, and the major gates of Chandpol, Ajmer and Sanganeri have been carefully restored. The entire city is a feat of town planning; the Old City is still loosely divided into traditional artisans' quarters. Avenues divide it into neat rectangles, each one specialising in different crafts: the main bazaars are Johari Bazaar, Tripolia Bazaar, Bapu Bazaar and Chandpol Bazaar.
At sunset, the buildings bask in a magical pink and gold glow.
Jaipur owes its name, foundation and planning to the great warrior-astronomer Maharaja Jai Singh II (1693-1743). In 1727, with Mughal power on the wane, Jai Singh decided …
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Tour Bookings, RTDC Tourist Hotel Swagam Campus
Book at the RTDC Tourist Hotel Swagam Campus for half-/full-day tours of Jaipur and around. The full-day tours (09:00 to 18:00) take in all the major sites (including Amber Fort), with a lunch break at Nahargarh. The lunch break can be as late as 15:00, so have a big breakfast. AC bus tours (10:00 to 17:00) cost Rs 135/180; they don't include Nahargarh.
Rushed half-day tours are confined to the city limits (08:00 to 13:00, 11:30 to 16:30 and 13:30 to 18:30) - some travellers recommend these, as you avoid the long lunch break. Fees don't include admission charges. Tours depart from the train station (depending on demand), and pick up from the RTDC Hotel Teej, Hotel Gangaur…
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Iswari Minar Swarga Sal
A handy landmark among the chaos is Iswari Minar Swarga Sal near Tripolia Gate. The minaret was erected by Jai Singh’s son, Iswari, who later killed himself rather than face the advancing Maratha army. As the ultimate act of Rajput loyalty, 21 wives and concubines committed jauhar on his funeral pyre. You can spiral to the top of the minaret for excellent views over the old city. The entrance is around the back of the row of shops lining Chandpol Bazaar. To get there take the alley that’s 50m west of the minaret along Chandpol Bazaar, or go via the entrance to the City Palace, which is 50m west of Tripolia Gate and 200m east of the minaret.
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Hawa Mahal
Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal is a remarkable, five-storey, delicately honeycombed, pink sandstone structure. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawaj Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city. It’s an amazing example of Rajput artistry, and remains a great place for people-watching from behind the small shutters. The top offers stunning views over the Jantar Mantar and the City Palace in one direction, and over Siredeori Bazaar in the other. Inside there’s a small museum evoking the royal past.
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Temple of the Sun God
The seductive Temple of the Sun God at Galta - also known as the Monkey Temple (monkeys converge here at dusk) - is 2.5km to the east of Jaipur, just beyond Surajpol Bazaar. On arrival, it's a steady 200m climb through a rocky, barren gorge, but there are spectacular views over the surrounding plains, and it's often packed with bathing pilgrims. Donations are sometimes insisted upon, and women travellers have reported feeling uncomfortable walking up here alone, particularly in the evening.
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Dr Dosa
Though it has a quirky name and a cartoon sign, this classy all-veg restaurant is worth a visit. Enter through the defensive wooden door, and inside you’ll find a feature fish tank, dim lighting and white linen tables with silver service – including goblets. As the name suggests there are traditional dosas, but there are also multicuisine versions of this South Indian classic. And it’s not all dosas: North Indian, Chinese and continental dishes are also offered.
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Chokhi Dhani
Located 15km from Jaipur, this virtual village provides a fantastical, magical evening. It’s pretend ethnicity, but don’t let that put you off. Stroll through gardens lit by glimmering lamps and dine on traditional Rajasthani thalis. Then take in some offbeat entertainment: traditional tribal dancers setting fire to their hats, small children balancing on poles, and dancers dressed in lion costumes. It’s hugely popular with Delhi-based families.
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Moti Mahal Delux
The famous Delhi restaurant now has franchises all over India delivering its world-famous butter chicken to the masses. The tantalising menu features a vast range of veg and nonveg, including seafood and succulent tandoori dishes. Snuggle into a comfortable booth and enjoy the ambience, spicy food and, last but not least, a delicious pista kulfi (pistachio-flavoured sweet similar to ice cream).
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Raj Mandir Cinema
The number-one Hindi cinema in India, Raj Mandir is an icon of Jaipur. Opened in 1976, this creamy meringue construction looks good enough to eat. It’s usually full, despite its immense size, but bookings can be made one hour to seven days in advance at Windows 7 and 8. Alternatively, sharpen your elbows and join the queue when the current booking office opens 45 minutes before the curtain goes up.
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Nahargarh
Built in 1734 and extended in 1868, sturdy Nahargarh overlooks the city from a sheer ridge to the north. An 8km road runs up to the fort through the hills from Jaipur, or it can be reached along a zigzagging 2km footpath. There are some interesting furnished rooms in the fort and glorious views – it’s a popular picnic spot on weekends, and the perfect place to catch the sunset.
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Om Revolving Restaurant
The rocket-shaped tower of Jaipur houses a revolving restaurant 56m above the glittering city. The surrounds are almost glitzy, and the alcohol-free vegetarian menu features several Rajasthani specialities as well as many multicuisine variations. The central stage occasionally hosts live ghazal singing (Urdu songs derived from poetry; sad love themes).
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OM
The rocket-shaped icon of Jaipur houses a revolving restaurant that leaves you dining 56m up among the smog-sheltered stars. The surrounds are glitzy, and the hard-core veg - and booze-free - menu is superb. A revolution takes 45 minutes, but service is invariably quicker. Keep your hands off the buffet - it doesn't match the à la carte. It's off MI Rd.
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Little Italy
The best Italian restaurant in town, Little Italy is part of a small chain that dishes up excellent vegetarian pasta, risotto and wood-fired pizza in cool, contemporary surroundings. The menu is extensive and includes some first-rate Italian desserts. There is a lounge bar attached so your vegetarian dining can be accompanied with wine or beer.
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Rajasthan Astrological Council & Research Institute
Dr Vinod Shastri is the medal-laden general secretary of the Rajasthan Astrological Council & Research Institute. He will prepare a computerised horoscope if you have your exact time and place of birth, or will read your palm. Although he should know when you’re arriving, it’s best to make an appointment.
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Ganesh Restaurant
This pocket-sized outdoor restaurant is in a fantastic location on the old city wall. There’s not much English spoken, but if you’re looking for a local eatery with fresh tasty food you’ll love it. It’s near New Gate, with a narrow, hidden stairway between two tailors – you’ll no doubt be helped to find the stairs.
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Niro’s
Niro’s has been on duty for more than 50 years, and still pumps out classic Indian fare and piped muzak. Under a mirrored roof, masses tuck into the extensive range of veg and nonveg dishes. The lal maans (mutton in spicy red gravy), and began bharta (aubergine) were delicious.
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City Palace
This impressive palace encompasses a vast complex of courtyards, gardens and buildings. The outer wall was built by Jai Singh, but other additions are much more recent, some dating from the early 20th century. Today the palace is a blend of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture.
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