Things to do in Eastern Rajasthan
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Navjyoti Tailors
Pushkar is a good place to get clothes made and a reliable option is Navjyoti Tailors.
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Jantar Mantar
Near the City Palace is Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh in 1728, which at first glance looks like a collection of mammoth, bizarre sculptures. The guided tour (30 minutes to one hour) is well worthwhile; guides provide explanations of how each of the fascinating instruments work, and how – through watching, recording and meticulous calculation – Jai Singh measured time by the course of the sun’s shadow and charted the annual progress through the zodiac. Each construction has a specific purpose, such as calculating eclipses. The most striking instrument is the sundial, with its 27m-high gnomon; the shadow this casts moves up to 4m per hour.
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Maharaja Sawai Mansingh Sangeet Mahavidyalaya
This is an excellent music school located behind Tripolia Gate. Tuition (per month from Rs500) is given in dance and in Indian instruments such as tabla (pair of drums) and bakhawas (double-sided drum).
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Trattoria
This Italian restaurant offers wood-fired pizzas and pasta dishes - even Italians recommend it. It's on the candlelit rooftop, and offers a rare chance to eat outside in Jaipur. It's behind Amber Tower.
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Dargah of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti
Situated at the foot of a hill and in the old part of town is the dargah of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti, India's most important Muslim pilgrimage site. This is the tomb of a Sufi saint Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti, who came to Ajmer from Persia in 1192 and died here in 1236. The tomb gained its significance during the time of the Mughals - many emperors added to the buildings here. Construction of the shrine was completed by Humayun, and the gate was added by the nizam (ruler of Hyderabad).
Akbar used to make the pilgrimage to the dargah from Agra every year. You have to cover your head in certain parts of the shrine, so remember to take a scarf or cap, although there are pl…
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Ranthambore National Park
This national park is 1334 sq km of wild jungle scrub hemmed in by rocky ridges. At its centre is the 10th-century Ranthambore Fort, and scattered nearby are ancient temples and mosques, crocodile-filled lakes, chhatris (cenotaphs) and hides. The park was a maharajas’ hunting ground till 1970 – a curious 15 years after it had become a sanctuary.
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Peacock Rooftop Restaurant
Overlooking Hathroi Fort – and most of Jaipur – this multilevel rooftop restaurant with an extraordinary peacock canopy has excellent views and food to match. Sit in the quirky iron furniture or upstairs in the romantic nook to enjoy superb Indian and Chinese dishes, or even a pizza. There are great value thalis (veg and nonveg starting at Rs50) and Western breakfasts.
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Lassiwala
This milky institution is a simple little place that whips up fabulous, creamy lassis (yoghurt and filtered iced-water drink) served in clay cups. Will the real Lassiwala please stand up? It’s the one that says ‘Shop 312’, directly next to the alleyway; imitators spread to the right as you face it.
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Handi Restaurant
This old favourite is opposite the main post office, at the back of Maya Mansions, and offers scrumptious barbecue dishes and Mughlai cuisine in a village atmosphere. In the evenings a deliciously tempting smoky kebab stall sets up at the entrance to the restaurant.
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Rainbow Restaurant
Set on a small rooftop with a view over the lake, the Rainbow hums with satisfied customers. The pasta is excellent, and the ice-cream sundaes overflow with sugary goodness. The hummus with fresh pita is pretty darn authentic.
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Amber Fort
Construction of Amber Fort was begun in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, the Rajput commander of Akbar’s army. It was later extended by the Jai Singhs before the move to Jaipur.
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Little Italy
A delightful garden restaurant with wood-fired pizzas and excellent pasta, pita and hummus. The pesto is made with home-grown basil, and the coffee is good by Pushkar standards.
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Jaipur Inn
This guesthouse has a rooftop restaurant with stupendous views over Jaipur. The scrumptious Indian veg buffet dinner is sociable and superb (nonguests book in advance).
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Mohan
This popular chow pit is grubby on the outside, but prepares freshly cooked food on the inside. The name is in Hindi and it’s on the corner of the street.
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Cooking Classes
The multitalented Deepa runs cooking and henna classes from behind her Ayurvedic shop, Bahar. She is connected to the Saraswati Music School.
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The Old City
The Pink City is partially encircled by a crenellated, battle-scarred wall, and the major gates of Chandpol, Ajmer and Sanganeri have been carefully restored. The entire city is a feat of town planning; the Old City is still loosely divided into traditional artisans' quarters. Avenues divide it into neat rectangles, each one specialising in different crafts: the main bazaars are Johari Bazaar, Tripolia Bazaar, Bapu Bazaar and Chandpol Bazaar.
At sunset, the buildings bask in a magical pink and gold glow.
Jaipur owes its name, foundation and planning to the great warrior-astronomer Maharaja Jai Singh II (1693-1743). In 1727, with Mughal power on the wane, Jai Singh decided …
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Cenotaph of Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh
This double-storey edifice, resting on a platform of sandstone, was built in 1815 by Maharaja Vinay Singh in memory of his father. To gain access to the cenotaph, take the steps on the far left when facing the palace. The cenotaph is also known as the Chhatri of Moosi Rani, after one of the mistresses of Bakhtawar Singh who performed sati (self-immolation) on his funeral pyre - after this act she was promoted to wifely status.
Everyday several women can be seen paying homage to the maharani by pouring holy water over raised sculpted footprints of the deceased royal couple. There is fine carving on the interior of the cenotaph (shoes should be removed), but unfortunately t…
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Suraj Mahl’s Palace
Deeg is famous for the Suraj Mahl’s Palace, one of India’s most beautiful palace complexes, made up of delicately proportioned buildings (bhavans) set in geometric gardens. The main building, Gopal Bhavan was used by the maharajas until the early 1950s, and rooms contain their original furnishings, from faded, spilling sofas to huge swing fans. Built in a combination of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles, the 18th-century palace sits in front of a large tank (reservoir), the Gopal Sagar, and is flanked by two exquisite pavilions. Outside, the gardens continue the extravagant theme; the Keshav Bhavan (Summer Pavilion) is engineered to mimic the sound of thunder whe…
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Tour Bookings, RTDC Tourist Hotel Swagam Campus
Book at the RTDC Tourist Hotel Swagam Campus for half-/full-day tours of Jaipur and around. The full-day tours (09:00 to 18:00) take in all the major sites (including Amber Fort), with a lunch break at Nahargarh. The lunch break can be as late as 15:00, so have a big breakfast. AC bus tours (10:00 to 17:00) cost Rs 135/180; they don't include Nahargarh.
Rushed half-day tours are confined to the city limits (08:00 to 13:00, 11:30 to 16:30 and 13:30 to 18:30) - some travellers recommend these, as you avoid the long lunch break. Fees don't include admission charges. Tours depart from the train station (depending on demand), and pick up from the RTDC Hotel Teej, Hotel Gangaur…
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Bala Quila
This imposing fort, with its 5km ramparts, stands 300m above the city, its fortifications hugging the steep incline. Predating the time of Pratap Singh, it's one of the few forts in Rajasthan built before the rise of the Mughals, who used it as a base for attacking Ranthambhore. Babur and Akbar have stayed overnight here, and Prince Salim (later Emperor Jehangir) was exiled in Salim Mahal for three years.
Now in ruins, unfortunately, the fort houses a radio transmitter station and can only be visited with permission from the superintendent of police. However, this is easy to get: just ask at the superintendent's office in the City Palace complex. You can walk up to the fo…
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Museum
Hidden away within the City Palace is an excellent government museum . Its eclectic exhibits evoke the extravagance of the maharajas' lifestyle: stunning weapons, stuffed Scottish pheasants, royal ivory slippers, erotic miniatures, royal vestments, a solid silver table, and stone sculptures, such as an 11th-century sculpture of Vishnu. There are also some striking 'widescreen' paintings of Imperial processions.
Somewhat difficult to find in the Kafkaesque tangle of government offices, it's on the top floor of the palace, up a ramp from the main courtyard. However, there are plenty of people around to point you in the right direction and from there you can follow the signs…
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Iswari Minar Swarga Sal
A handy landmark among the chaos is Iswari Minar Swarga Sal near Tripolia Gate. The minaret was erected by Jai Singh’s son, Iswari, who later killed himself rather than face the advancing Maratha army. As the ultimate act of Rajput loyalty, 21 wives and concubines committed jauhar on his funeral pyre. You can spiral to the top of the minaret for excellent views over the old city. The entrance is around the back of the row of shops lining Chandpol Bazaar. To get there take the alley that’s 50m west of the minaret along Chandpol Bazaar, or go via the entrance to the City Palace, which is 50m west of Tripolia Gate and 200m east of the minaret.
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Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra
Beyond the dargah, on the town outskirts, are the extraordinary ruins of the Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra mosque. According to legend, construction in 1153 took 2½ days. Others say it was named after a festival lasting 2½ days. It was built as a Sanskrit college, but in 1198 Mohammed of Ghori seized Ajmer and converted the building into a mosque by adding a seven-arched wall covered with Islamic calligraphy in front of the pillared hall.
Although in need of restoration, it's an exquisite piece of architecture, with soaring domes, pillars and a beautiful arched screen, largely built from pieces of Jain and Hindu temples.
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City Palace
Below the fort sprawls the colourful and convoluted City Palace , or Vinay Vilas Mahal, with massive gates and a tank reflecting a symmetrical series of ghats and pavilions. Today most of the complex is occupied by government offices, overflowing with piles of dusty papers and soiled by pigeons and splatters of paan (a mixture of betel nut and leaves for chewing).
The curious can peer through the offices at the once splendid rooms and marvel at their neglect. Just outside the palace you will find clerks busily clacking away on typewriters for their lawyer bosses (who have outdoor 'offices' here).
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Hawa Mahal
Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal is a remarkable, five-storey, delicately honeycombed, pink sandstone structure. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawaj Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city. It’s an amazing example of Rajput artistry, and remains a great place for people-watching from behind the small shutters. The top offers stunning views over the Jantar Mantar and the City Palace in one direction, and over Siredeori Bazaar in the other. Inside there’s a small museum evoking the royal past.
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