Sights in Eastern Rajasthan
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Jantar Mantar
Near the City Palace is Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh in 1728, which at first glance looks like a collection of mammoth, bizarre sculptures. The guided tour (30 minutes to one hour) is well worthwhile; guides provide explanations of how each of the fascinating instruments work, and how – through watching, recording and meticulous calculation – Jai Singh measured time by the course of the sun’s shadow and charted the annual progress through the zodiac. Each construction has a specific purpose, such as calculating eclipses. The most striking instrument is the sundial, with its 27m-high gnomon; the shadow this casts moves up to 4m per hour.
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Dargah of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti
Situated at the foot of a hill and in the old part of town is the dargah of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti, India's most important Muslim pilgrimage site. This is the tomb of a Sufi saint Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti, who came to Ajmer from Persia in 1192 and died here in 1236. The tomb gained its significance during the time of the Mughals - many emperors added to the buildings here. Construction of the shrine was completed by Humayun, and the gate was added by the nizam (ruler of Hyderabad).
Akbar used to make the pilgrimage to the dargah from Agra every year. You have to cover your head in certain parts of the shrine, so remember to take a scarf or cap, although there are pl…
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Ranthambore National Park
This national park is 1334 sq km of wild jungle scrub hemmed in by rocky ridges. At its centre is the 10th-century Ranthambore Fort, and scattered nearby are ancient temples and mosques, crocodile-filled lakes, chhatris (cenotaphs) and hides. The park was a maharajas’ hunting ground till 1970 – a curious 15 years after it had become a sanctuary.
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Amber Fort
Construction of Amber Fort was begun in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, the Rajput commander of Akbar’s army. It was later extended by the Jai Singhs before the move to Jaipur.
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The Old City
The Pink City is partially encircled by a crenellated, battle-scarred wall, and the major gates of Chandpol, Ajmer and Sanganeri have been carefully restored. The entire city is a feat of town planning; the Old City is still loosely divided into traditional artisans' quarters. Avenues divide it into neat rectangles, each one specialising in different crafts: the main bazaars are Johari Bazaar, Tripolia Bazaar, Bapu Bazaar and Chandpol Bazaar.
At sunset, the buildings bask in a magical pink and gold glow.
Jaipur owes its name, foundation and planning to the great warrior-astronomer Maharaja Jai Singh II (1693-1743). In 1727, with Mughal power on the wane, Jai Singh decided …
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Cenotaph of Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh
This double-storey edifice, resting on a platform of sandstone, was built in 1815 by Maharaja Vinay Singh in memory of his father. To gain access to the cenotaph, take the steps on the far left when facing the palace. The cenotaph is also known as the Chhatri of Moosi Rani, after one of the mistresses of Bakhtawar Singh who performed sati (self-immolation) on his funeral pyre - after this act she was promoted to wifely status.
Everyday several women can be seen paying homage to the maharani by pouring holy water over raised sculpted footprints of the deceased royal couple. There is fine carving on the interior of the cenotaph (shoes should be removed), but unfortunately t…
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Suraj Mahl’s Palace
Deeg is famous for the Suraj Mahl’s Palace, one of India’s most beautiful palace complexes, made up of delicately proportioned buildings (bhavans) set in geometric gardens. The main building, Gopal Bhavan was used by the maharajas until the early 1950s, and rooms contain their original furnishings, from faded, spilling sofas to huge swing fans. Built in a combination of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles, the 18th-century palace sits in front of a large tank (reservoir), the Gopal Sagar, and is flanked by two exquisite pavilions. Outside, the gardens continue the extravagant theme; the Keshav Bhavan (Summer Pavilion) is engineered to mimic the sound of thunder whe…
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Bala Quila
This imposing fort, with its 5km ramparts, stands 300m above the city, its fortifications hugging the steep incline. Predating the time of Pratap Singh, it's one of the few forts in Rajasthan built before the rise of the Mughals, who used it as a base for attacking Ranthambhore. Babur and Akbar have stayed overnight here, and Prince Salim (later Emperor Jehangir) was exiled in Salim Mahal for three years.
Now in ruins, unfortunately, the fort houses a radio transmitter station and can only be visited with permission from the superintendent of police. However, this is easy to get: just ask at the superintendent's office in the City Palace complex. You can walk up to the fo…
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Museum
Hidden away within the City Palace is an excellent government museum . Its eclectic exhibits evoke the extravagance of the maharajas' lifestyle: stunning weapons, stuffed Scottish pheasants, royal ivory slippers, erotic miniatures, royal vestments, a solid silver table, and stone sculptures, such as an 11th-century sculpture of Vishnu. There are also some striking 'widescreen' paintings of Imperial processions.
Somewhat difficult to find in the Kafkaesque tangle of government offices, it's on the top floor of the palace, up a ramp from the main courtyard. However, there are plenty of people around to point you in the right direction and from there you can follow the signs…
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Iswari Minar Swarga Sal
A handy landmark among the chaos is Iswari Minar Swarga Sal near Tripolia Gate. The minaret was erected by Jai Singh’s son, Iswari, who later killed himself rather than face the advancing Maratha army. As the ultimate act of Rajput loyalty, 21 wives and concubines committed jauhar on his funeral pyre. You can spiral to the top of the minaret for excellent views over the old city. The entrance is around the back of the row of shops lining Chandpol Bazaar. To get there take the alley that’s 50m west of the minaret along Chandpol Bazaar, or go via the entrance to the City Palace, which is 50m west of Tripolia Gate and 200m east of the minaret.
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Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra
Beyond the dargah, on the town outskirts, are the extraordinary ruins of the Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra mosque. According to legend, construction in 1153 took 2½ days. Others say it was named after a festival lasting 2½ days. It was built as a Sanskrit college, but in 1198 Mohammed of Ghori seized Ajmer and converted the building into a mosque by adding a seven-arched wall covered with Islamic calligraphy in front of the pillared hall.
Although in need of restoration, it's an exquisite piece of architecture, with soaring domes, pillars and a beautiful arched screen, largely built from pieces of Jain and Hindu temples.
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City Palace
Below the fort sprawls the colourful and convoluted City Palace , or Vinay Vilas Mahal, with massive gates and a tank reflecting a symmetrical series of ghats and pavilions. Today most of the complex is occupied by government offices, overflowing with piles of dusty papers and soiled by pigeons and splatters of paan (a mixture of betel nut and leaves for chewing).
The curious can peer through the offices at the once splendid rooms and marvel at their neglect. Just outside the palace you will find clerks busily clacking away on typewriters for their lawyer bosses (who have outdoor 'offices' here).
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Hawa Mahal
Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal is a remarkable, five-storey, delicately honeycombed, pink sandstone structure. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawaj Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city. It’s an amazing example of Rajput artistry, and remains a great place for people-watching from behind the small shutters. The top offers stunning views over the Jantar Mantar and the City Palace in one direction, and over Siredeori Bazaar in the other. Inside there’s a small museum evoking the royal past.
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Brahma Temple
Pushkar boasts hundreds of temples, though few are particularly ancient, as they were mostly desecrated by Aurangzeb and subsequently rebuilt. Most famous is the Brahma Temple, said to be one of the few such temples in the world. Apparently Brahma wanted to perform a yagna (self-mortification) at the lake, and when his wife Savitri didn't attend, he married another woman on a whim.
Savitri, understandably annoyed, vowed that Brahma would not be worshipped anywhere else. It's marked by a red spire, and over the entrance gateway is the hans (goose symbol) of Brahma.
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Jaigarh
A scrubby green hill rises above Amber and is topped by the imposing Jaigarh, built in 1726 by Jai Singh. The stern fort, punctuated by whimsical-hatted lookout towers, was never captured and has survived intact through the centuries. It’s an uphill walk (about 1km) from Amber and offers great views from the Diwa Burj watchtower. The fort has reservoirs, residential areas, a puppet theatre and the world’s largest wheeled cannon, Jaya Vana. Admission is free with a valid ticket from the Jaipur City Palace that is less than two days old.
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Ana Sagar
This large lake, created in the 12th century by damming the River Luni, is set against a blue-grey hilly spine that merges into its surface. On its bank is a park, the Subash Bagh & Dault Bagh, containing a series of marble pavilions erected in 1637 by Shah Jahan. There are good views towards Ajmer from the hill beside the Dault Bagh, particularly at sunset. It's a popular place for an evening stroll, though you may get quite a lot of attention. Pedalos and motorboats can be hired from the Fun N Joy Boat Club.
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Exorcism temple
The extraordinary Hindu exorcism temple is about 3km off the Jaipur–Agra road. People bring their possessed loved ones here to have bad spirits exorcised through prayer and rituals. Most exorcisms take place on Tuesday and Saturday, and the only people who can get inside the temple are the holy men and the victims – services are relayed to the crowds outside on video screens. The possessed scream, shout, dance and shake their heads. The often disturbing scenes at this temple may upset some.
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Temple of the Sun God
The seductive Temple of the Sun God at Galta - also known as the Monkey Temple (monkeys converge here at dusk) - is 2.5km to the east of Jaipur, just beyond Surajpol Bazaar. On arrival, it's a steady 200m climb through a rocky, barren gorge, but there are spectacular views over the surrounding plains, and it's often packed with bathing pilgrims. Donations are sometimes insisted upon, and women travellers have reported feeling uncomfortable walking up here alone, particularly in the evening.
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Chand Baori
About 100km from Jaipur on the Agra road, this remote village, surrounded by wheat fields, is the unlikely location for one of Rajasthan’s most awe-inspiring baoris (step-wells). An incredible geometric sight, Chand Baori has around 11 visible levels of zigzagging steps and is 20m deep. The well, the crumbling palace and the Harshat Mata Temple are believed to have been built by King Chand, ruler of Abhaneri and a Rajput from the Chahamana dynasty.
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Sariska Tiger Reserve
Lying in a wooded valley between Alwar and Jaipur, Sariska Tiger Reserve has been at the centre of controversy since 2005 when it was revealed that there were no tigers living in the park. In late 2008 the big cats were once more roaming the reserve, having been relocated from Ranthambore National Park. It is hoped that this reintroduction, coupled with the relocation of villages within the park, will result in a sustainable tiger population.
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Nasiyan (Red) Temple
This marvellous Jain temple was built in 1865. It's also known as the Golden Temple, due to its amazing display - its double-storey temple hall is filled with a huge golden diorama depicting the Jain concept of the ancient world, with 13 continents and oceans, the intricate golden city of Ayodhya, flying peacock and elephant gondolas, and gilded elephants with many tusks. The hall is decorated with gold, silver and precious stones.
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Government Museum
Akbar built this imposing palace in 1570 – partly as a pleasure retreat, but mainly to keep a watchful eye on local rulers. It was here, on 10 January, 1616, that Sir Thomas Roe, ambassador of King James 1 of England, was given the first official audience by the Emperor Jehangir. Akbar's Palace houses the government museum, which has a small collection of stone sculptures, weapons and miniature paintings.
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Alwar Museum
The convoluted City Palace complex with its massive gates and tank is lined by a beautifully symmetrical procession of ghats and pavilions. Hidden upstairs in the former City Palace is the interesting Alwar Museum. The museum’s exhibits evoke the extravagance of the maharajas’ lifestyle, with stunning weapons, royal ivory slippers, fascinating and unexpected miniatures, and old musical instruments.
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Haveli Nadine Prince
Haveli Nadine Prince has been restored to its former dazzling glory and the admission includes a detailed guided tour. The 1802 building is owned by French artist Nadine Le Prince, who has turned it into an art gallery and cultural centre and has done much to publicise the plight of Shekhawati. Long-term artist residencies are available, There’s a cafe as well as the contemporary art gallery.
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Dargah
Located in the old part of town is one of India’s most important Muslim pilgrimage sites. The dargah is the tomb of a Sufi saint, Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti, who came to Ajmer from Persia in 1192 and lived here until 1233. Construction of the shrine was completed by Humayun and the gate was added by the Nizam of Hyderabad. Akbar used to make the pilgrimage to the dargah from Agra every year.
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