Things to do in Punjab & Haryana
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Brothers’ Dhaba
Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such as Brothers’ Dhaba which has (mainly Indian) meals averaging Rs80, and open early to late. Brothers’ is the current sweetheart, but only by a whisker.
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Surjit
Famous tandoori chicken emporium serving hearty Punjabi curries.
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Shangri-La Plus
A Chinese restaurant with high prices and slow service but generous servings when they arrive. Try the yaki gyoza - dumplings with hot garlic sauce.
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Kesar Da Dhaba
Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such asKesar Da Dhaba.
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Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden
Entering this Chandigarh icon, a 25-acre garden, is like falling down a rabbit-hole into the labyrinthine interior of one man’s mind. Created by Nek Chand, cleverly using recycled junk and organic materials, the garden is a curious maze of interlinking courtyards, twisting walkways and staircases suddenly emerging into valleys with crashing waterfalls or amphitheatres overrun by figures made of china shards. No material is wasted, from electrical sockets to colourful wire, glass and even broken bangles, in the legions of men, animals, archways and walls, with broken-art faces around almost every corner.
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Copper Chimney
The boti kebab (charcoal-grilled marinated mutton) is spicy, succulent goodness, the tandoori gobi (cauliflower) is clay-oven magic, and the ‘sizzling brownie’ is chocolatey bliss. Chic interior.
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Punjab Dhaba
Amritsar is famous for its dhabas (snack bars) such as Punjab Dhaba) meals average Rs80, and open early to late.
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Khadi Ashram
Homespun textiles and herbal beauty products (soaps include water-lily, aloe-vera and mint).
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Phulkari
Government of Punjab emporium with everything from handicrafts to jootis.
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Crystal Restaurant
Rated by many as Amritsar’s classiest restaurant, Crystal boasts all sorts of yummy global favourites, from lasagne to fish curry. Book ahead, especially on weekends. There are two side-by-side ‘Crystals’, apparently due to a family split...we’re equally divided when it comes to judging which is best. Guess you’ll just have to try both!
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Golden Temple
True to Sikhism’s inclusive nature, everyone is welcome at the Sikhs’ holiest shrine. As when at any sacred site, dress and behave respectfully. Everyone must remove their shoes and socks, wash their feet (take your cue from pilgrims), and cover their head; scarves can be borrowed (no charge). Tobacco and alcohol are strictly prohibited. Temple officials request tourists not to casually dangle their feet in the (holy) water tank but, rather, to sit cross-legged. Photography is only permitted from the Parkarma, the marble walkway surrounding the pool.
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Le Corbusier Centr
Le Corbusier Centre will especially appeal to those interested in urban planning. Through old documents, sketches and photos it chronicles the work of Chandigarh’s chief architect, Le Corbusier. There’s a black-and-white photo of a suit and bow tie–attired Le Corbusier on a paddle boat, as well as some fascinating letters, including one from Jawaharlal Nehru to the Chief Minister of Punjab dated November 4 1960, part of which states ‘I do hope that you will not overrule Corbusier. His opinion is of value.’
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Jallianwala Bagh
Near the Golden Temple, this poignant park commemorates those Indians killed or wounded here by the British authorities in 1919. Some of the bullet marks are still visible, as is the well into which hundreds desperately leapt to avoid the bullets. There’s an eternal (24-hour) flame of remembrance. The park also contains the Martyrs’ Gallery; a sound-and-light show was being planned at the time of research.
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Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary
This 145-hectare sanctuary plays host to over 250 bird species, including painted storks, Demoiselle cranes, cormorants, spotted sandpipers, mallards and plovers. Its fluctuating population of woodland, shallow-water and deep-water birds includes an estimated 150 resident species and roughly 100 visiting species from Europe, Afghanistan, Siberia and elsewhere. The best time to visit is October to March.
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Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama
Within the grounds of the Ram Bagh park is the impressive Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama, dedicated to the ‘Lion of Punjab’ (1780–1839). Upstairs is the larger-than-life panorama, replete with booming sound effects, depicting various battle scenes including the maharaja’s 1818 conquest of the fort at Multan. Kids, especially, will love it. Exhibits downstairs include colour paintings and dioramas.
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Yellow Chilli
A stylish chain-restaurant conceived by celebrity chef, Sanjeev Kapoor, locals flock here to tuck into delights like the hariyali machchi (charcoal-grilled, mint- flavoured fish), rogan josh (slow-cooked mutton in yoghurt and fennel gravy) and blackcurrant kulfi (firm-textured ice cream). There’s a good veg buffet (Rs165; lunch only). Dinner reservations wise.
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Baradari Palace
This sublime heritage-hotel is Punjab’s most graceful place to stay and a perfect stop-over for anyone belting out the Delhi–Amritsar road trip. Dripping with old-world charm, the carefully restored property boasts high ceilings, beautiful period furnishings and relaxing terraces that overlook lovely gardens. The airy rooms are elegantly appointed. A swimming pool is planned.
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Nik Baker’s
Chandigarh’s top bakery, with fresh bread (multigrain, linseed, ciabatta, sunflower, rye etc), snacks (quiche, mushroom panini, chicken croissants) and pastries (lemon tarts, blueberry cheesecake, brownies). There’s also gelato ice cream (the brownie-fudge is mmmmmagical). Birthday cakes (from Rs390) can be baked with at least a day’s notice. Smaller branch at Sector 9-D.
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Mata Temple
This labyrinthine Hindu cave temple commemorates the bespectacled 20th-century female saint, Lal Devi. Women wishing to become pregnant come here to pray. The circuitous route to the main shrine passes through ankle-deep waterways, low tunnels, staircases, walkways and caves, the last of which turns out to be the inside of a divine mouth.
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Oriental Lounge
Below AB’s restaurant, this chi-chi lounge-bar is a most civilised spot to slow the pace. There’s Heineken (Rs180 per can) and mint tequilas (Rs250), among other things, while the impressive pan-Asian food menu has glass noodle soup (Rs75), crab cakes (Rs240) and ‘Tickle Me Honey’ (Thai honey-marinated pork chops; Rs190). Happy hour is from noon to 6pm.
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Guru-Ka-Langar
Guru-Ka-Langar is the free (donations appreciated) community dining room, a feature of all Sikh temples as a mark of unity among people of all religions, creeds and nationalities. The huge kitchens (one has a chapati machine) prepare dhal, rice and chapatis for up to 40,000 pilgrims a day. All are welcome to join the masses eating on the floor.
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Barbeque Nation
The novelty at this wood-esque restaurant is small grills embedded in each table, allowing diners to partake in the cooking of their meals. The food, however, isn’t quite as sexy. There’s a good veg/nonveg buffet (lunch Monday to Saturday/Sunday per person Rs309/450; dinner daily Rs450) which includes BBQ Indian, Chinese and Mediterranean fare.
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Sri Durgiana Temple
Dedicated to the goddess Durga, this 16th-century temple, surrounded by a holy water tank, is a Hindu version of the Golden Temple, sometimes known as the Silver Temple for its carved silver doors. Try to visit when there are soothing bhajans (devotional songs); held daily from around 7.30am to 9.30am and 6.30pm to 8.30pm.
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Lava Bar
With lava lamps and a retro vibe, this small bar celebrates an ‘amoebic ambiance in a hot modern way.’ Rejoice this fact with expensive bubbles (Dom Perignon; Rs22,000) …or, maybe not…thank heaven there’s plenty of (affordable) pale ale (Corona beer; Rs300). DJ from 7pm on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
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Old City Shopping
As you wander through the narrow alleys of the old city lined with crumbling havelis (traditional ornately decorated residences) and other heritage buildings you'll see stalls selling everything from roasted sweet potatoes to jootis (Punjabi slippers - traditional, often pointy-toed, footwear).
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