Sights in Punjab & Haryana
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Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden
Entering this Chandigarh icon, a 25-acre garden, is like falling down a rabbit-hole into the labyrinthine interior of one man’s mind. Created by Nek Chand, cleverly using recycled junk and organic materials, the garden is a curious maze of interlinking courtyards, twisting walkways and staircases suddenly emerging into valleys with crashing waterfalls or amphitheatres overrun by figures made of china shards. No material is wasted, from electrical sockets to colourful wire, glass and even broken bangles, in the legions of men, animals, archways and walls, with broken-art faces around almost every corner.
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Golden Temple
True to Sikhism’s inclusive nature, everyone is welcome at the Sikhs’ holiest shrine. As when at any sacred site, dress and behave respectfully. Everyone must remove their shoes and socks, wash their feet (take your cue from pilgrims), and cover their head; scarves can be borrowed (no charge). Tobacco and alcohol are strictly prohibited. Temple officials request tourists not to casually dangle their feet in the (holy) water tank but, rather, to sit cross-legged. Photography is only permitted from the Parkarma, the marble walkway surrounding the pool.
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Le Corbusier Centr
Le Corbusier Centre will especially appeal to those interested in urban planning. Through old documents, sketches and photos it chronicles the work of Chandigarh’s chief architect, Le Corbusier. There’s a black-and-white photo of a suit and bow tie–attired Le Corbusier on a paddle boat, as well as some fascinating letters, including one from Jawaharlal Nehru to the Chief Minister of Punjab dated November 4 1960, part of which states ‘I do hope that you will not overrule Corbusier. His opinion is of value.’
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Jallianwala Bagh
Near the Golden Temple, this poignant park commemorates those Indians killed or wounded here by the British authorities in 1919. Some of the bullet marks are still visible, as is the well into which hundreds desperately leapt to avoid the bullets. There’s an eternal (24-hour) flame of remembrance. The park also contains the Martyrs’ Gallery; a sound-and-light show was being planned at the time of research.
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Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary
This 145-hectare sanctuary plays host to over 250 bird species, including painted storks, Demoiselle cranes, cormorants, spotted sandpipers, mallards and plovers. Its fluctuating population of woodland, shallow-water and deep-water birds includes an estimated 150 resident species and roughly 100 visiting species from Europe, Afghanistan, Siberia and elsewhere. The best time to visit is October to March.
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Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama
Within the grounds of the Ram Bagh park is the impressive Maharaja Ranjit Singh Panorama, dedicated to the ‘Lion of Punjab’ (1780–1839). Upstairs is the larger-than-life panorama, replete with booming sound effects, depicting various battle scenes including the maharaja’s 1818 conquest of the fort at Multan. Kids, especially, will love it. Exhibits downstairs include colour paintings and dioramas.
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Baradari Palace
This sublime heritage-hotel is Punjab’s most graceful place to stay and a perfect stop-over for anyone belting out the Delhi–Amritsar road trip. Dripping with old-world charm, the carefully restored property boasts high ceilings, beautiful period furnishings and relaxing terraces that overlook lovely gardens. The airy rooms are elegantly appointed. A swimming pool is planned.
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Mata Temple
This labyrinthine Hindu cave temple commemorates the bespectacled 20th-century female saint, Lal Devi. Women wishing to become pregnant come here to pray. The circuitous route to the main shrine passes through ankle-deep waterways, low tunnels, staircases, walkways and caves, the last of which turns out to be the inside of a divine mouth.
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Sri Durgiana Temple
Dedicated to the goddess Durga, this 16th-century temple, surrounded by a holy water tank, is a Hindu version of the Golden Temple, sometimes known as the Silver Temple for its carved silver doors. Try to visit when there are soothing bhajans (devotional songs); held daily from around 7.30am to 9.30am and 6.30pm to 8.30pm.
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Ram Bagh Museum
This must-see museum is in the summer palace built by the Lion of Punjab, Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780-1839). Under the great one-eyed leader, Punjab colonised much of present-day Kashmir and Pakistan. The weapons, paintings and manuscripts on display bring the man and this golden age of Punjabi history to life.
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Museum
On the way to the High Court is a small, well-kept museum containing assorted memorabilia including original Le Corbusier sketches and the handcuffs worn by Godse, Mahatma Gandhi’s assassin. Most exhibits are on the 1st floor. On request, there’s an interesting (free) guided tour.
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Kurukshetra Panorama & Science Centre
Next door to the Sri Krishna Museum is the Kurukshetra Panorama & Science Centre. Upstairs, an air-brushed sky flares behind vultures picking at severed heads in the diorama relaying the Mahabharata battle. The ground floor has interactive science exhibits.
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Government Museum and Art Gallery
Set in a garden dotted with sculptures such as a mini Eiffel Tower, the Government Museum and Art Gallery has a sizeable collection including embroidered phulkari wraps made by Punjabi village women, modern art and Buddhist sculptures from across Asia.
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Chandigarh Architecture Museum
The Chandigarh Architecture Museum uses photos, letters, models, newspaper reports and architectural drawings to provide revealing insights into the city’s planning and development. There’s an outdoor sound-&-light show.
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Arms Gallery
The crumbling Qila Mubarak fort looks like it could have been transported from the desert to its position in the bazaar area. There’s an arms gallery in its 1859 Durbar Hall which displays antique weapons.
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Ram Tirath Temple
Around 13km west of Amritsar, it’s in the vicinity of this Hindu temple that Valmiki is believed to have worked on the Ramayana. It’s also said to be the area where Lord Rama’s two sons, Luv and Kush, were born.
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Garden of Fragrance
In line with Le Corbusier’s vision of a garden city, Chandigarh is dotted with verdant parks. Away from the town centre, the Garden of Fragrance has sweet-scented varieties such as jasmine and damask rose.
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Natural History Museum
Next door to the City Museum, the Natural History Museum is less interesting for its fossilised animal skulls than for its manuscript section, which includes 16th-century Sanskrit texts.
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Sikh Museum
In the main entrance clock tower of the Golden temple, the Sikh Museum vividly shows the grisly history of those Sikhs martyred by the Mughals, the British and Mrs Gandhi.
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City Museum
The brilliant City Museum uses photos, letters, models, newspaper reports and architectural drawings to give a fascinating insight into the planning and development of Chandigarh.
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Rose Garden
In line with Le Corbusier’s vision of a garden city, Chandigarh is dotted with verdant parks. One such is the Rose Garden, which has over 1500 rose varieties.
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Sports Museum
The Old Moti Bagh Palace houses a sports museum with exhibits that include memorabilia relating to Punjabi sprinting hero Milkha Singh, ‘the Flying Sikh’.
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Sheikh Chaheli’s Tomb
Sheikh Chaheli’s tomb, 2.3km from the Sri Krishna Museum, is where the Sufi saint is buried with his family in sandstone-and-marble mausoleums.
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National Gallery of Portraits
The National Gallery of Portraits, behind the State Library, displays photos and paintings illustrating the country’s independence movements.
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Terraced Garden
In line with Le Corbusier’s vision of a garden city, Chandigarh is dotted with verdant parks. Less central is the Terraced Garden.
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