Things to do in Orissa
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Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary
Three rivers flow out to sea at Bhitarkanika forming a tidal maze of muddy creeks and mangroves. Most of this 672-sq-km delta forms Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary, a significant eco-system containing hundreds of estuarine crocodiles that bask on mud flats waiting for the next meal to swim by. Dangmal Island contains a successful breeding and conservation program for these crocodiles. Pythons, water monitors, wild boar and timid spotted deer can also be seen. The best time to visit is from December to February.
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Peace Restaurant
‘Peace Restaurant world famous in Puri but never heard of anywhere else.’ So reads the menu, which features curries, macaroni, the best muesli in town and tasty fish dishes; the fish dopiaza is fab. This simple row of tables with thatch canopies is deservedly popular. Your food might take a while to arrive but it will be worth it, and you can enjoy a cold beer while you wait.
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Khana Khazana
A popular street stall with a few chairs and tables scattered outside. Alfresco diners savour tandoori chicken, chicken biryani or large serves of delicious chow mein featuring chicken, vegetables and prawns. Traditional Bengali hot rolls (try the tandoori chicken) are the cheapest and tastiest snack in town for Rs. 20.
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Discover Tours
A helpful, recommended agency specialising in tribal and textile village tours as well as Bhitarkanika and Similipal.
reviewed
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Jagannath Mandir
This mighty temple belongs to Jagannath, Lord of the Universe and incarnation of Vishnu. The jet- black deity with large, round, white eyes is hugely popular across Orissa. Built in its present form in 1198, the temple (closed to non-Hindus) is surrounded by two walls; its 58m-high sikhara (spire) is topped by the flag and wheel of Vishnu.
Guarded by two stone lions and a pillar crowned by the Garuda that once stood at the Sun Temple at Konark, the eastern entrance, or Lion Gate, is the passageway for the chariot procession of Rath Yatra. The southern, western and northern gates are guarded by statues of men on horseback, tigers and elephants, respectively.
Jagannath, bro…
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Raja Rani Mandir
This temple, built around 1100 and surrounded by manicured gardens, is famous for its ornate deul (temple sanctuary) and tower. Around the compass points are pairs of statues representing eight dikpalas (guardians) who protect the temple. Between them, nymphs, embracing couples, elephants and lions peer from niches and decorate the pillars. The name of the temple isn’t for a particular king and queen, but is the name of the stone used in the temple’s construction.
reviewed
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Sun Temple
The massive SunTemple was constructed in the mid-13th century, probably by Orissan king Narasimha Dev I to celebrate his military victory over the Muslims, and was in use for maybe only three centuries. In the late 16th century marauding Mughals removed the copper over the cupola; this may have led to the partial collapse of the 40m-high sikhara (spire) , and subsequent cyclones probably compounded the damage.
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Tangerine 9
If you’re not ready to surrender to vegetarianism, step in to Tangerine 9 where there’s all the meat you can handle and all the dishes burst with the flavour of fresh herbs and spices. There’s a big range of Indian (especially tandoori) and Chinese, plus some nicely executed Thai dishes. Pan-Asian starters include momos (Tibetan dumplings) and salt-and-pepper prawns. Decor is blonde wood and signature tangerine.
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City Tour
The OTDC runs a city tour every day except Monday, covering the Nandankanan Zoo, Dhauli, the Lingaraj and Mukteswar temples, the State Museum and Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves. Another tour goes to Pipli, Konark and Puri (non-AC/AC Rs. 180/250, daily). Both tours leave from the Panthanivas Bhubaneswar hotel. These prices don’t include entry fees, which can add up to more than Rs. 300 for foreigners.
reviewed
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Archaeological Museum
This interesting (and refreshingly cool and quiet) museum, just west of Yatri Nivas, contains many impressive sculptures and carvings found during excavations of the Sun Temple. Highlights include the full-bellied Agni (the fire god) and the larger-than-life, voluptuous Bina Badini. Check out the carved Lady with a Bird – it’s pecking her in a place that can’t be comfortable.
reviewed
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Hare Krishna Restaurant
The menu says ‘Surrender to the pleasure of being vegetarian’, and it’s not difficult at this excellent veg restaurant. In dimly lit, upmarket surrounds you can enjoy mainly Indian dishes, including a wide range of tasty biryanis and pilaus, along with a good selection of soups and desserts. The lassi is outstanding. It’s upstairs; enter through the shopping arcade.
reviewed
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Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary
The 347-sq-km Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary, 40km from Sambalpur, is an easy day out. Mainly dry deciduous forest blankets the Barapahad Hills down to the shores of the vast Hirakud reservoir, a home for migratory birds in winter. Wildlife here includes deer, antelopes, sloth bears, langur monkeys and the ever-elusive tigers and leopards.
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Tribal Museum
The Tribal Museum has an extensive exhibition of tribal culture including utensils, tools and clothes, as well as some paintings for sale. The museum will open out of hours if you can find the friendly caretaker. The open-air Jungle Restaurant here does Indian and Chinese dishes in a cool, leafy setting.
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Regional Science Centre
Kids will love this parkland museum with its giant dinosaurs. Included in the admission is a 30-minute movie screened hourly. Other treats are hands-on demonstrations of the laws of physics and displays on astronomy and insects. You may have the whole place to yourself if a school group isn’t there.
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Bamboo
A traveller-oriented place with muesli, pancakes and other usual suspects, all in the open air with thatched umbrellas and friendly staff who’ll give you a game of chess when things are quiet. Ask the price of off-menu seafood suggestions before you order; they can cost three times more than anything on the menu.
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New Hong Kong Restaurant
For 18 years the Chen family has been providing authentic Chinese in Sambalpur; we met expats who’d driven 60km cross-country to eat here. The menu also includes several Thai dishes and some tasty Indian-Chinese fusion dishes like Sichuan paneer. Ultraviolet light and doof music at night give it a clubby feel.
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Maurya Gardens
A darkened restaurant where you may have trouble reading the menu of Indian, Chinese and continental dishes. The curries are nice and hot, but if you want a beer to cool it down you’ll have to eat (same menu) in the bar next door. Nearest to the train station, it’s suitable for pre- or post-travel drinks.
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Xanadu Restaurant
Another garden setting with a sandy floor, Xanadu is for the early riser - enjoy a breakfast fry-up or muesli from under the shade of coconut and banana palms. In the evening, over a cold beer and some crunchy pappadam, you can choose between prawns or fish curry or try one of numerous continental dishes.
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Dakshin
Standing out in CT Rd’s string of ageing sand-floor banana-pancake joints, this clean new place has a simple menu of well-prepared South Indian dishes. The excellent thali includes puri (flat dough that puffs up when deep fried) and dessert. There are nice touches like lime-scented finger bowls.
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Truptee Restaurant
This clean and cool basement restaurant has all the South Indian favourites (and it opens at 7.30am, so it’s ideal for an idli – spongy, round, fermented rice cake – and vada breakfast) plus a range of northern curries, including a few good paneer (unfermented cheese) dishes.
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OTDC
A city tour offered by OTDC, covers the Nandankanan Zoo, Dhauli, the Lingaraj and Mukteswar temples, the State Museum and Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves. Another tour goes to Pipli, Konark and Puri. Both tours require a minimum of five people and leave from the Panthanivas Bhubaneswar hotel.
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Lighthouse
Peering over the town of Gopalpur-on-Sea is the lighthouse, with its immaculate gardens and petite staff cottages. It’s a late-afternoon draw card and after puffing up the spiral staircase you’re rewarded with expansive views and welcome cooling breezes.
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State Museum
This museum boasts Orissa’s best collection of rare palm-leaf manuscripts, traditional and folk musical instruments, Bronze Age tools, an armoury and a display of Orissan tribal anthropology. Don’t miss the salvaged colonial gravestone on the front lawn.
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Raghunandan Library
Non-Hindus can spy on the Jagannath Mandir from the roof of Raghunandan Library. Ask permission; a 'donation' is compulsory (about Rs10) and your amount is entered in a book. On Sunday a nearby hotel takes over the scam and demands Rs50- easily negotiated down to Rs20.
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Wildgrass Restaurant
With mismatched sculptures and precarious tree-huts scattered through its grounds, Wildgrass is a secret garden gone wild. The garden surrounds a small restaurant with an Indian and continental menu enlivened with excellent seafood dishes and Orissan specialties.
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