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Getting there & away

Near the Tourist Lodge, Anand Travels (220083/231657; Jenkins Rd) is the Indian Airlines agent. Direct flights to Kolkata (US$94, 1¼ hours) operate on Wednesday when you could arrive from Shillong. On Tuesday and Sunday Kolkata flights ($170, 3¼ hours) go via Jorhat (US$64, 40 minutes). The airport is an intimidating military affair ringed with razor-wired fences. Its guarded gates are 10km up the NH52 (along which Balipara-bound buses pass regularly), then 600m east.

The busy bus station (KK/Jenkins Rd) has regular departures for Guwahati (Rs 110, five hours) and for Jorhat (Rs 90, four hours) via Kaziranga (Rs 50, two hours). APST buses for Dirang (Rs 205, 7½ hours) via Bomdila leave at 6.30am. Private buses leave from outside the bus station.

Sumos for Ziro, Along, Bomdila, Dirang and Tawang have their booking counters around Hotel Durga.

Buses to Bhalukpong (Rs 28, 1½ hrs) via Balipara and Gamani (for Nameri) leave roughly twice hourly from the northwest corner of Padun Pukhuri lake.