Things to do in Guwahati
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JB's
All-in-one complex with bakery, ice-cream parlour, somewhat Mexican-styled snack bar and (upstairs via the sweet counter) a restaurant serving world-class Indian vegetarian food.
reviewed
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B
Beatrix
Upbeat and cartoon-walled, Beatrix is just a peg above a student-style hangout. Its eclectic menu offers fish and chips, momos (Tibetan dumplings), Hakka Chow and a mysterious ‘con est soir’. It’s on Manik Chandra (MC) Rd.
reviewed
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Khorika Restaurant
Named after the Assamese khorika (barbecued dishes), this restaurant may be canteen-style but it has authentic Assamese cuisine. For the whole hog share the sample-everything khorika (Rs. 500) with friends.
reviewed
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C
Urra Tara Temple
The half-hidden Urra Tara Temple is Guwahati's second-holiest, backed by the gently attractive Jorpulkuri ponds in the city centre's most prestigious residential quarter.
reviewed
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Kamakhya Mandir
While Sati’s disintegrated body parts rained toes on Kolkata, her yoni (genitalia) fell on Kamakhya Hill. This makes Kamakhya Mandir important for sensual tantric worship of female spiritual power (shakti). Goats, pigeons and the occasional buffalo are ritually beheaded in a gory pavilion and the hot, dark inner womblike sanctum is painted red to signify sacrificial blood. The huge June/July Ambubachi Mela festival celebrates the end of the mother goddess’ menstrual cycle with even more blood.
reviewed
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D
Sukreswar Ghat Park
Sukreswar Devalaya comprises three mostly modern-looking temples including one where holy water dribbles continuously over a Shiva lingam from a suspended bell-metal amphora. Almost adjacent, little Sukreswar Ghat Park contains a playful, multi-arched ornamental gateway built by the British. Two of its eight missile-shaped spires are leaning precariously, perhaps due to the devastating 1897 earthquake that destroyed virtually every other building in Guwahati.
reviewed
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E
Umanda Mandir Cruise Bats
Some tourists pay a fortune to spot rare golden langurs in Bhutan's national parks. Yet at Umananda Mandir these loveable monkeys often loiter at the gates, politely soliciting snacks from devotees. This Shiva temple complex sits on a prettily forested river-island, accessed by a 36-seater Umanda Mandir cruise boats. The boats depart when full (roughly half-hourly) from Kachari Ghat which itself offers attractive afternoon riverviews.
reviewed
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Jungle Travels India
An experienced agency covering the entire northeast with tailor-made tours and fixed-date departures for Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh. It organises all the permits. With two boats, it runs Brahmaputra cruises for four to 10 nights at US$320 per person per night, and also runs the Bansbari Lodge in Manas National Park.
reviewed
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Sangai Restaurant
The dining room doesn't look special but ask for the 'local' menu and choose from Guwahati's best selection of Manipuri specialities. Try Erongba (jackfruit-kernel chutney) with Nga-Thongba (fish and ginger curry) on chakhao (black Manipuri rice).
reviewed
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Paradise
Well known for its authentic Assamese cuisine, its thali is the best way to get a lot of small tasters. Assamese food is not a lip tingler like typical Indian food and for some this cuisine can seem rather bland, but it’s the subtleties you’re after rather than the heat.
reviewed
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Nabagraha Mandir
Several hilltops are crowned by minor curiosities. One-such is Nabagraha Mandir, northeast of centre by autorickshaw, famed as a centre of astrology. Beyond its aggressive monkey guardians, a darkly atmospheric inner sanctum holds nine ancient stone Shiva lingams.
reviewed
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Delicacy
Tucked beneath a repulsive overpass junction, the odd location is far from central but worth the trek for Guwahati's very best selection of northeastern cuisine styles. There are almost a dozen types of rice alone. Take buses 1, 2, 3 or 21 from near the museum.
reviewed
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Traveller’s Point
Assam Tourism’s commercial booth runs day excursions to Hajo via the silk-weaving centre of Sualkuchi (adult/child Rs. 450/375, minimum five people). It also offers two-day all-inclusive packages to Kaziranga National Park (Indian/foreigner from Rs. 1280/2280).
reviewed
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J
Assam State Museum
This worthwhile museum, on GN Bordoloi (GNB) Rd, has a large sculpture collection, while the upper floors are devoted to informative tribal culture displays. You get to walk through reconstructed tribal homes.
reviewed
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Empire Restaurant and Bar
This cheesy, comic book caricature of a 1970s 'cheers' bar, is more time-warp than retro but it's fun for a quick Rs 20 'peg' of Old Monk rum. Live 'music' on weekend nights is amusingly dreadful.
reviewed
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K
Café Coffee Day
Guwahati’s central coffee shop, pumping out contemporary music, attracts the city’s student and nouveau-riche youth with perfect (if very slow) macchiatos. It also has a branch at the airport.
reviewed
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Tandoori
Majestic North Indian cuisine served at stylish low tables by waiters in Mughal uniforms accompanied by gentle live tabla music. The prawn dishes, yes a little expensive, are delightful.
reviewed
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Sagar Ratna
This sparkling, modern chain-restaurant specialises in vegetarian Indian food. Big windows, wickedly delicious coconut dosas and good air-con justify slightly elevated prices.
reviewed
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Northeast Network
This NGO seeds self-help projects in rural villages including several handloom-weaving cooperatives. Buying beautiful (and good-value) cottons here supports this fine work.
reviewed
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Trafik
This under-lit bar has a vast screen for cricket matches or filmi (slang term describing anything to do with Indian movies; in this case, Bollywood music) clips.
reviewed
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P
Artfed
Well stocked with bargain bamboo crafts, wickerwork and many a carved rhino. Several nearby shops specialise in Assam’s famous golden-toned silks.
reviewed
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Silk Route
Good-value Indian, Chinese and Thai food served in a cosy, two-storey place. Its cold fruit beer (non-alcoholic) is an absolute thirst-killer.
reviewed
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Gopal
Just around the corner from JB's, Gopal is another decent veggie option whose stylish decor has an appealing, low-key modern vibe.
reviewed
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Beauty Valley
Romance on a budget illuminated by fairy-lights on an open balcony overlooking the Dighulipukhuri tank. Decent chicken rolls.
reviewed
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Nehru Park
There's a vaguely sweet naivety to strolling amid the floodlit statues, balloon sellers and bubble-blowers of Nehru Park.
reviewed
