Things to do in Assam
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A
JB's
All-in-one complex with bakery, ice-cream parlour, somewhat Mexican-styled snack bar and (upstairs via the sweet counter) a restaurant serving world-class Indian vegetarian food.
reviewed
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Beatrix
Upbeat and cartoon-walled, Beatrix is just a peg above a student-style hangout. Its eclectic menu offers fish and chips, momos (Tibetan dumplings), Hakka Chow and a mysterious ‘con est soir’. It’s on Manik Chandra (MC) Rd.
reviewed
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Khorika Restaurant
Named after the Assamese khorika (barbecued dishes), this restaurant may be canteen-style but it has authentic Assamese cuisine. For the whole hog share the sample-everything khorika (Rs. 500) with friends.
reviewed
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C
Urra Tara Temple
The half-hidden Urra Tara Temple is Guwahati's second-holiest, backed by the gently attractive Jorpulkuri ponds in the city centre's most prestigious residential quarter.
reviewed
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Kaziranga National Park
Assam’s must-do attraction is a rhinoceros-spotting safari through the expansive flat grasslands of this national park. Kaziranga’s population of around 1900 Indian one-horned rhinos (just 200 in 1904) represents two-thirds of the world’s total. There is a western, central and an eastern range. The central is the most accessible giving the best viewing chances for rhinos, elephants and swamp deer plus plenty of bird life (take binoculars). One-hour elephant-back rides, central range only for foreign visitors, are especially satisfying when a ‘team’ of elephants makes pincer movements, surrounding rhinos without frightening them off.
reviewed
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Kamakhya Mandir
While Sati’s disintegrated body parts rained toes on Kolkata, her yoni (genitalia) fell on Kamakhya Hill. This makes Kamakhya Mandir important for sensual tantric worship of female spiritual power (shakti). Goats, pigeons and the occasional buffalo are ritually beheaded in a gory pavilion and the hot, dark inner womblike sanctum is painted red to signify sacrificial blood. The huge June/July Ambubachi Mela festival celebrates the end of the mother goddess’ menstrual cycle with even more blood.
reviewed
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D
Sukreswar Ghat Park
Sukreswar Devalaya comprises three mostly modern-looking temples including one where holy water dribbles continuously over a Shiva lingam from a suspended bell-metal amphora. Almost adjacent, little Sukreswar Ghat Park contains a playful, multi-arched ornamental gateway built by the British. Two of its eight missile-shaped spires are leaning precariously, perhaps due to the devastating 1897 earthquake that destroyed virtually every other building in Guwahati.
reviewed
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E
Umanda Mandir Cruise Bats
Some tourists pay a fortune to spot rare golden langurs in Bhutan's national parks. Yet at Umananda Mandir these loveable monkeys often loiter at the gates, politely soliciting snacks from devotees. This Shiva temple complex sits on a prettily forested river-island, accessed by a 36-seater Umanda Mandir cruise boats. The boats depart when full (roughly half-hourly) from Kachari Ghat which itself offers attractive afternoon riverviews.
reviewed
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Karenghar Palace
Dramatic if largely unadorned, this 1752 brick palace is the last remnant of the Ahom’s pre-Sivasagar capital. The unique four-storey structure rises like a sharpened, stepped pyramid above an attractive forest-and-paddy setting spoilt by nearby electricity substations. It’s 900m north of the Sivasagar–Sonari road: turn just before Gargaon (14km) from Sonari.
reviewed
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Chitralekha Udyan
Chitralekha Udyan has a U-shaped pond wrapped around pretty manicured lawns, dotted with fine ancient sculptures. The bearded chap in Mesopotamian-style costume is Banasura. A block east, then south, stands Ganeshgarh temple backing onto a ghat overlooking the surging river, a good place for Brahmaputra sunsets.
reviewed
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Jungle Travels India
An experienced agency covering the entire northeast with tailor-made tours and fixed-date departures for Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh. It organises all the permits. With two boats, it runs Brahmaputra cruises for four to 10 nights at US$320 per person per night, and also runs the Bansbari Lodge in Manas National Park.
reviewed
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Rang Ghar
Talatalghar the famous (but not spectacular) Ahom ruin is 4km down AT Rd from central Sivasagar. Some 2km beyond a WWII-era metal lift-bridge, look right to see the rather beautiful Rang Ghar. From this two-storey oval-shaped ‘pavilion’, Ahom monarchs once watched buffalo and elephant fights.
reviewed
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POA Mecca
Two kilometres east of Hajo is a mosque sheltering the tomb of the multi-named Hazarat Shah Sultan Giasuddin Aulia Rahmatullah Alike who died some 800 years ago. Muslims need to walk (the less pious may drive) 4km up a spiral road to reach the mosque, which is architecturally unremarkable.
reviewed
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Chat House
The modern glass tower Baliram Building, on the corner of Naren Bose (NB) and NC/SC Rds, contains several floors of good dining. The rooftop Chat House has an open-sided, but roofed, terrace for cooling breezes, good views, Indian snacks, noodles, pizzas and momos.
reviewed
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Sangai Restaurant
The dining room doesn't look special but ask for the 'local' menu and choose from Guwahati's best selection of Manipuri specialities. Try Erongba (jackfruit-kernel chutney) with Nga-Thongba (fish and ginger curry) on chakhao (black Manipuri rice).
reviewed
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Paradise
Well known for its authentic Assamese cuisine, its thali is the best way to get a lot of small tasters. Assamese food is not a lip tingler like typical Indian food and for some this cuisine can seem rather bland, but it’s the subtleties you’re after rather than the heat.
reviewed
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H
Nabagraha Mandir
Several hilltops are crowned by minor curiosities. One-such is Nabagraha Mandir, northeast of centre by autorickshaw, famed as a centre of astrology. Beyond its aggressive monkey guardians, a darkly atmospheric inner sanctum holds nine ancient stone Shiva lingams.
reviewed
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Delicacy
Tucked beneath a repulsive overpass junction, the odd location is far from central but worth the trek for Guwahati's very best selection of northeastern cuisine styles. There are almost a dozen types of rice alone. Take buses 1, 2, 3 or 21 from near the museum.
reviewed
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Traveller’s Point
Assam Tourism’s commercial booth runs day excursions to Hajo via the silk-weaving centre of Sualkuchi (adult/child Rs. 450/375, minimum five people). It also offers two-day all-inclusive packages to Kaziranga National Park (Indian/foreigner from Rs. 1280/2280).
reviewed
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Nameri National Park
Picturesque Nameri National Park specialises in low-key, walk-in birdwatching treks. Access is from Potasali, 2km off the Tezpur–Bhalukpong road (turn east at one-house hamlet Gamani, 12km north of Balipara).
reviewed
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Dosa House
The modern glass tower Baliram Building, on the corner of Naren Bose (NB) and NC/SC Rds, contains several floors of good dining. The ground-floor stand-up-and-eat dosa house serves South Indian fare and cheap breakfasts.
reviewed
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Purvi Discovery
Purvi Discovery organises regional tours, kayaking days (Rs. 3000) and horse-riding trips (Rs. 7800 per day including meals). Given three days’ notice it can organise two-hour tea estate visits.
reviewed
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J
Assam State Museum
This worthwhile museum, on GN Bordoloi (GNB) Rd, has a large sculpture collection, while the upper floors are devoted to informative tribal culture displays. You get to walk through reconstructed tribal homes.
reviewed
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China Villa
The modern glass tower Baliram Building, on the corner of Naren Bose (NB) and NC/SC Rds, contains several floors of good dining. Semi-smart China Villa offers Indian and Chinese food in AC comfort.
reviewed
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Empire Restaurant and Bar
This cheesy, comic book caricature of a 1970s 'cheers' bar, is more time-warp than retro but it's fun for a quick Rs 20 'peg' of Old Monk rum. Live 'music' on weekend nights is amusingly dreadful.
reviewed
