Restaurants in Kolkata (Calcutta)
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Indian Coffee House
The mythic Indian Coffee House was once a meeting place of freedom fighters, bohemians and revolutionaries. Today its crusty high ceilings and grimy walls ring with deafening student conversation but despite the dishwater coffee, it’s perversely fascinating. One block south of MG Rd, walk 20m east off College St and it’s upstairs on the left.
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Peter Cat
Opposite KFC, this phenomenally popular Kolkata institution offers fizzing sizzlers, great chelo -kebabs (barbequed fingers of spiced, ground-lamb) and beers quaffed from pewter tankards. Waiters wear Rajasthani costumes in an atmosphere redolent of a mood-lit 1970s steakhouse.
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Nizams
Bengal's trademark fast-food is the kati roll. No, that's nothing like a bread-roll. Take a paratha-roti, fry it with a one-sided coating of egg then fill with sliced onions, chilli and your choice of stuffing - typically curried chicken, grilled meat or paneer (unfermented cheese). Roll it up in a twist of paper and it's ready to eat. The classic, recently relaunched, 1932 roll house is Nizams, with faintly Tin-Tin-esque cartoon décor.
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Bar-B-Q
Three interconnected dining rooms offer different but similar menus in this enduring family favourite. Decor is comfortably unpretentious.
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Mocambo
Despite somewhat old-fashioned red leather scoop-seats and benches, Mocambo has a very loyal following for its mixed grills (Rs189), fish Wellington (Rs192), chicken Kiev (Rs181) and bhekti meuniere (well they don’t have trout).
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Dustarkhwan
Reliable curries, piled-high biriyanis (Rs100) and vampire-repelling garlic chicken-balls served inexpensively in a well air-conditioned if none-too stylish local restaurant. Cheaper options next door.
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Only Parathas
Calm and relatively stylish this new restaurant offers high quality Punjabi vegetarian food including (but not limited to) 133 types of paratha (bread).
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Snacks Stalls
Snacks stalls abound around New Market with puris on Bertram St, pastries round the corner outside CitiMart, espressos and pizza within the New Empire cinema and great dosas, fresh juices and momos directly opposite across Humayan Pl. For baked potatoes, cheap biriyanis, chow mein and Rs 30 curry-roti, look down nearby Madge Lane or further east around the Collin St/Ripon St junction-triangle.
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Hot Kati Rolls
Bengal’s trademark fast food is the kati roll: take a paratha roti, fry it with a one-sided coating of egg then fill with sliced onions, chilli and your choice of stuffing (curried chicken, grilled meat or paneer). Roll it up in a twist of paper and it’s ready to eat, generally on the street. Typical hole-in-the-wall serveries like Hot Kati Rolls specialize in this.
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Kuzums
Bengal’s trademark fast food is the kati roll: take a paratha roti, fry it with a one-sided coating of egg then fill with sliced onions, chilli and your choice of stuffing (curried chicken, grilled meat or paneer). Roll it up in a twist of paper and it’s ready to eat, generally on the street. Typical hole-in-the-wall Kuzums is well known.
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The Heritage
The decor isn’t memorable and party-wrapped chairs will prove hard to clean but staff are obliging and the very reasonable 100%-veg food is packed with marvellously complex flavours. A former gallery behind hosts a rare hookah parlour (water-pipe Rs160 to Rs 230, mocktails Rs45 to Rs75) to have survived the October 2008 smoking ban.
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Jong’s
This double-character restaurant is magnificently wooden-panelled like a Raj-oriental gentleman’s club with silver-plated cutlery, antique-style umbrellas and lazy wind chimes dangling overhead. Free nibbles precede the meal, but the Thai and Korean options lack ‘kick’ and teppanyaki isn’t done at the table.
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Oh! Calcutta
Shutter-edged mirror ‘windows’, bookshelves and B&W photography create a casually up-market atmosphere in this appealing Bengali-fusion restaurant. Luchi are feather-light and fresh lime brings out the subtleties of koraishatir dhokar dalna (pea-cakes in ginger).
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Kathleen Confectioners
Their sickly-sweet cakes aren’t exactly the promised ‘Taste of Hapinezz’ but their savoury pastries are delicious. Stand-and-eat tables offer free filter water if you dare to use the shared metal cup. There are many other branches, including one on AJC Bose Rd.
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6 Ballygunge Place
This sturdy but not over-formal Raj-era mansion offers lunch-time buffets with six main courses plus desserts, chutneys and rice allowing a good all-round introduction to Bengali food. Minibus 118 from Jatin Das Park metro stops a block north on Bondel Rd.
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On Track
An almost full-sized steam train heads straight for the window offering parents a unique, upmarket dining experience in leather-seated Pullman carriages while the kids play in the locomotive. Over-keen waiters flock like vultures but food standards vary.
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Riviera
‘Coastal’ cuisine picks the best from a variety of Indian regions: Puducherry stuffed prawns, Mangalore bhekti curry, coconut- flavoured Keralan dishes and Chettinad chicken. Vegetarians can order from the menu of attached Angaar Restaurant.
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Teej
Superbly painted with Mughal-style murals the wonderfully atmospheric interior feels like a Rajasthani haveli (traditional, often ornately decorated, residences). The excellent, 100% vegetarian food is predominantly Rajasthani, too.
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Bayleaf
Tibetan, Burmese and semi-Thai options bolster some imaginative Chinese cuisine like the delicious mushroom delights (half mushrooms stuffed with paneer, deep-fried and served in mild sauce). The decor is black seats at black-glass tables.
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Mirch Masala
Old clocks, fake trees, half a taxi-chassis and a north Indian menu presented like a gossip magazine combine to create an amusing ambience that feels like a Bollywood Tex-Mex joint. Take the lane beside Pantaloons department store.
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Fire and Ice
Self-consciously handsome wait-staff sporting black shirts and bandanas bring forth real Italian pastas and pizzas whose fresh-baked thin crusts are Kolkata’s best, though the home-made mozzarella melts in a rather odd fashion.
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Jalapenos
In a pleasant, high-ceilinged room with mock wooden beams and little alcoves decorated with spice bottles, the food is enjoyable as long as you don’t expect much resemblance to the Tex-Mex and Mediterranean names on the menu.
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Kewpies
Dining at Kewpies feels like being invited to a dinner party in the chef’s eclectic, gently old-fashioned home. First-rate Bengali food comes in small but fairly-priced portions. Minimum spend is Rs220 per person.
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Rupasi Bangla
Cane, glass and wrought-iron furniture create a low-key but gently stylish ambiance in which to savour a great range of genuine Bengali cuisine. Friendly management can help you decipher unfamiliar menu terms.
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Ivory
Fashionably suave Indian, Chinese and Continental dining with some of the most original curries in town, originally dreamt up by India's leading celebrity chef. Excellent lunch buffets from Rs400.
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