Sights in Central Kerala
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Synagogue
This synagogue, originally built in 1568, was partially destroyed by the Portuguese in 1662, and rebuilt two years later when the Dutch took Kochi. It features an ornate gold pulpit and intricate, hand-painted, willow-pattern floor tiles from Canton, China. It’s magnificently illuminated by chandeliers (from Belgium) and coloured-glass lamps. The graceful clock tower was built in 1760. There is an upstairs balcony for women who worshipped separately according to Orthodox rites. Note that shorts or sleeveless tops are not allowed inside.
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St Francis Church
Believed to be India’s oldest European-built church, St Francis Church was originally constructed in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan friars. The edifice that stands here today was built in the mid-16th century to replace the original wooden structure. Adventurer Vasco da Gama, who died in Cochin in 1524, was buried on this spot for 14 years before his remains were taken to Lisbon – you can still visit his tombstone in the church.
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Kerala Kalamandalam
Kerala Kalamandalam, 32km northeast of Thrissur at Cheruthuruthy, is a champion of Kerala’s traditional-art renaissance. Using an ancient Gurukula system of learning, students undergo intensive study in Kathakali, mohiniyattam (classical dance), kootiattam, percussion, voice and violin. Structured visits are available, including a tour around the theatre and classes. Individually tailored introductory courses are offered one subject at a time (between six and 12 months; around Rs1500 per month, plus Rs1500 for accommodation).
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Hill Palace Museum
Hill Palace Museum at Tripunithura, 12km southeast of Ernakulam en route to Kottayam, was formerly the residence of the Kochi royal family and is an impressive 49-building palace complex. It now houses the collections of the royal families, as well as 19th-century oil paintings, old coins, sculptures and paintings, and temple models. From Ernakulam catch the bus to Tripunithura from MG Rd or Shanmugham Rd, behind the Tourist Reception Centre (Rs5, 45 minutes); an autorickshaw should cost around Rs250 return with one-hour waiting time.
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Jew Town
The synagogue is smack-bang in the middle of Jew Town, a bustling port area and centre of the Kochi spice trade. Scores of small firms huddle together in old, dilapidated buildings and the air is filled with the biting aromas of ginger, cardamom, cumin, turmeric and cloves. These days, the lanes right around the Dutch Palace and the synagogue are filled with antique and tourist curio shops rather than pungent spices. Look out for the Jewish names on some of the buildings.
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Pardesi Synagogue
Originally built in 1568, the Pardesi Synagogue was destroyed by the Portuguese in 1662 and rebuilt two years later when the Dutch took Kochi. It features an ornate gold pulpit and hand-painted, willow-pattern floor tiles from China. It's magnificently illuminated by chandeliers and coloured-glass lamps. The graceful clock tower was built in 1760. There is an upstairs balcony for women who worshipped separately according to Orthodox rites.
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Archaeology Museum
The Archaeology Museum is housed in the 200-year-old Sakthan Thampuran Palace. Wandering through its arrow-guided maze you get to see some neat artefacts, including 12th-century Keralan bronze sculptures, earthenware pots big enough to cook children in, and an extraordinary 1500kg wooden treasury box covered in locks and iron spikes.
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Mattancherry Palace
Built by the Portuguese in 1555, Mattancherry Palace was a rather generous gift presented to the Raja of Kochi, Veera Kerala Varma (1537–61), as a gesture of goodwill. More probably, it was a used as a sweetener to securing trading privileges. The Dutch renovated the palace in 1663, hence its alternative name, the Dutch Palace.
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Synagogues
One of the oldest synagogues in Kerala, at Chennamangalam, 8km from Parur, has been fastidiously renovated. Inside you can see notable door and ceiling wood reliefs in dazzling colours, while just outside lies the oldest tombstone in India – inscribed with the Hebrew date corresponding to 1269.
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Indo-Portuguese Museum
The Indo-Portuguese Museum, in the garden of the Bishop’s House, preserves the heritage of one of India’s earliest Catholic communities, including vestments, silver processional crosses and altarpieces from the Cochin diocese. The basement contains remnants of the Portuguese Fort Immanuel.
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Santa Cruz Basilica
The imposing Catholic Santa Cruz Basilica was originally built on this site in 1506, though the current building dates to 1902. Inside you’ll find arte-facts from the different eras in Kochi and a striking pastel-coloured interior.
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Dutch Cemetery
The Dutch Cemetery, consecrated in 1724, contains the worn and dilapidated graves of Dutch traders and soldiers; it’s gates are normally locked but you can ask the caretaker at St Francis Church if you want to have a look around.
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Draavidia Art & Performance Gallery
Shows off art by Keralan artists in an airy upstairs gallery. It also holds classical music concerts (Rs100) from November to March at 6pm.
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Cherai beach
For a dip in the ocean, you can make a day trip to the attractive Cherai beach on Vypeen Island.
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Kashi Art Gallery
The pioneer of Fort Cochin’s art revival, Kashi displays changing exhibitions of local artists.
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Chitram Art Gallery
Has a few excellent pieces by both well-known and emerging Indian artists.
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Lila Studio
Mostly showing works by co-director, painter and sculptor Gayatri Gamuz.
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