Things to do in Northern Karnataka
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Bidar Fort
Keep aside a few hours for peacefully wandering around the remnants of the magnificent 15th-century Bidar Fort. Sprawled across rolling hills 2km east of Udgir Rd, this fort was once the administrative capital of much of southern India. Surrounded by a triple moat hewn out of solid red rock and 5.5km of defensive walls (the second longest in India), the fort has a fairy-tale entrance on a roadway that twists in an elaborate chicane through three gateways.
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Bahmani Tombs
The huge domed tombs of the Bahmani kings, in Ashtur, 3km east of Bidar, have a desolate, moody beauty that strikes a strange harmony with the sunny hills around them. These impressive mausoleums were built to house the remains of the sultans – their graves are still regularly draped with fresh satin and flowers – and are arranged in a long line along the edge of the road. The painted interior of Ahmad Shah Bahman’s tomb is the most impressive, and is regularly prayed in.
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Ibrahim Rouza
The beautiful Ibrahim Rouza is clearly among the most elegant and finely-proportioned Islamic monuments in India. Its tale is rather poignant: the monument was built by emperor Ibrahim Adil Shah II (r 1580–1627) as a future mausoleum for his queen, Taj Sultana. Ironically, he died before her, and was thus the first person to be rested there. Interred here with Ibrahim Adil Shah and his queen are his daughter, his two sons, and his mother, Haji Badi Sahiba.
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Jama Masjid
The finely proportioned Jama Masjid has graceful arches, a fine dome and a vast inner courtyard with room for more than 2200 worshippers. It was constructed by Ali Adil Shah I (r 1557–80), also responsible for erecting the fortified city walls and the Gagan Mahal. You can take a silent walk through its assembly hall, which still retains some of the elaborate murals. Women should make sure to cover their heads and not wear revealing clothing.
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Pattadakal Temples
A secondary capital of the Badami Chalukyas, Pattadakal is known for its group of temples, which are collectively a World Heritage Site. Barring a few temples that date back to the 3rd century AD, most others in the group were built during the 7th and 8th centuries AD. Historians believe Pattadakal served as an important testing ground for the development of South Indian temple architecture.
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Choukhandi
Choukhandi is the serene mausoleum of Sufi saint Syed Kirmani Baba, who travelled here from Persia during the golden age of the Bahmani empire. An uncanny air of calm hangs within the monument, and its polygonal courtyard houses rows of medieval graves, amid which women in hijab sit quietly and murmur inaudible prayers. You are welcome to sit in or walk around, and soak up the ambience.
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Golgumbaz
Set in tranquil gardens, the magnificent Golgumbaz is big enough to pull an optical illusion on you; despite the perfect engineering, you might just think it’s ill-proportioned. Golgumbaz is actually a mausoleum, dating back to 1659, and houses the tombs of emperor Mohammed Adil Shah (r 1627–56), his two wives, his mistress (Rambha), one of his daughters and a grandson.
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Durga Temple
In Aihole is the impressive 7th-century Durga Temple, notable for its semicircular apse (inspired by Buddhist architecture) and the remains of the curvilinear sikhara (temple spire). The interiors house intricate stone carvings. The small museum behind the temple contains further examples of Chalukyan sculpture.
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Archaeological Museum
Set in the Golgumbaz lawns, fronting the monument, is a fantastic archaeological museum. Skip the ground floor and head upstairs; there you’ll find an excellent collection of artefacts, such as Persian carpets, china crockery, weapons, armours, scrolls and objects of daily use, dating back to Bijapur’s heydays.
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Asar Mahal
Built by Mohammed Adil Shah in about 1646 to serve as a Hall of Justice, the Asar Mahal once housed two hairs from Prophet Mohammed’s beard. The rooms on the upper storey are decorated with frescoes and a square tank graces the front. It’s out of bounds for women.
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Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa
Dominating the heart of the old town are the ruins of Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa, a college built in 1492. To get an idea of its former grandeur, check out the remnants of coloured tiles on the front gate and one of the minarets that still stands intact.
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Swapna Lodge Restaurant
It’s located two floors up a dingy staircase in the building next to Hotel Tourist, and has good grub, cold beer and a 1970s lounge feel. Its open-air terrace is perfect for evening dining, though it does get a little noisy with the maddening traffic below.
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Upli Buruj
Upli Buruj is a 16th-century, 24m-high watchtower near the western walls of the city. An external flight of stairs leads to the top, where you’ll find two hefty cannons and good views of other monuments around town.
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Mecca Masjid
On the eastern side of the citadel is the tiny, walled Mecca Masjid, thought to have been built in the early 17th century. Some speculate that this mosque, with high surrounding walls, may have been for women.
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Geeta Darshini
South Indian bites such as idlis (South Indian spongy, round, fermented rice cakes) and masala dosas come out thick and fast at this popular joint, all washed down with milky chai (Rs5).
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Archaeological Museum
The archaeological museum houses superb examples of local sculpture, including a remarkably explicit Lajja-Gauri image of a fertility cult that once flourished in the area.
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Cave Temples
Badami’s highlight is its beautiful cave temples. Non-pushy and informed guides ask Rs200 for a tour of the caves, or Rs300 for the whole site. Watch out for pesky monkeys!
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Kamat Restaurant
Below Hotel Kanishka International, this popular vegetarian eatery churns out superb food in clean surroundings. Try the elaborate and delicious Kamat special thali (Rs55).
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Golden Caves Cuisine
Desperately missing your Continental breakfast platter? You’ll find it here, along with several other tasty non-veg bites. The manager is a picture of politeness.
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Banashree
In front of Hotel Rajsangam, this tidy pure-veg place makes one of the best North Indian thalis (Rs65) to be found in these parts. It’s tasty to the last morsel.
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Jyothi Udupi
This place opposite the bus stand has 21 kinds of dosa (Rs16 to 32), filling South Indian thalis (Rs25) and an ice-cream dessert called Easy Sunday!
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Hotel Sanman
You might call it ropey, but it feels kind of nice to disappear behind a curtain in the booths and sip on your beer in peace. The food is average.
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Bangalore Restaurant
This modest little pink-painted place does a decent South Indian veg thali. Don’t fuss over its skeletal appearance; just refuel and leave!
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Hotel Samrat
Samrat scores with its North Indian (Rs55) and South Indian (Rs44) thalis, which begin with tomato soup and end with ice cream!
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Pulikeshi Dining Room
People rave about the good range of Continental and Indian dishes at this silver-service restaurant in Hotel Badami Court.
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